18-Volt ONE+ Lithium-Ion Cordless AirStrike 15-Gauge Angled Finish Nailer (Tool Only) with Sample Nails

You know the story of the three little pigs? One pig made his house with sticks, one with 2 x 4's, and one with bricks? And for some reason the Big Bad Wolf was able to blow down the Poor Little Pigs house that was made out of 2 x 4's. Well, as it turns out, that poor little foolish pig used this as a framing nail gun. ;-)

34 degrees. I believe that's a standard. I recommend Senco brand nails.

Yes

Unfortunately, no. It shoots only 15ga finish nails from 1" to 2.5" in length.

The nailer is quite powerful, but I'm sure the answer to your question would depend on the type and thickness of the tongue-and-groove lumber you would be nailing. I've had no issues firing 2.5" nails into 2x4s though 3/4" plywood, fiber-cement board siding, and other ordinary framing lumber.

It's a common problem with all power nailers, I'm surprised the mfgr rep. didn't know the cause. What you're getting is "tool bounce", when the tool recoils, it bounces up (happens so fast you won't notice unless you are aware of it), and you naturally hold it down (or it's weight does), so it comes back down and hits the wood, leaving a small dent. On big air driven framing nailers shooting 3 1/2"ers, this will actually cause the tool to fire again and drive a 2nd nail (usually left high). It also happens with the Airstrike finish nailers, but it's not that severe. It will still leave a dent, sometimes right over the nail, but usually off to the side slightly. Lack of contact pressure will also cause inconsistent head depths. The stray mark is where the tool came back down. The fix for both is to hold the tool down tight all the way thru the cycle. You have to actually push it into the work firmly, not just let the tool weight do the job. The mark should disappear. Then adjust the power and depth settings: First adjust the power setting to get it driving consistently to the same depth every time, (don't worry about the actual depth yet, just make sure it has enough power to drive the nail home, giving it a little extra power to make sure it will handle hard spots. Then set the head depth dial by backing it out about a full turn (for the airstrike tools, that's not as much as you would think), and start turning in the depth until you get the setting where you want it. I use the narrow crown stapler a lot and it's pretty good about holding a constant depth, even with varying materials. The depth control system works great as long as the power is set high enough, you want the power adjusted so it drives all nails easily, but not so high that it becomes uncontrollable. The tool has a LOT of power and you need to turn it down for shorter fasteners. I put a Sharpie mark on the dial for the longest fasteners and write how much to back it off for shorter ones (The Power and Depth settings) right on the side of the tool. Good Luck!

NO...15 gauge "DA" style nails ONLY.

No this type of nailer(15ga) is used for molding. You would need a framing nailer for subfloors

The head is to small on a finish nail, you will need to use galvanized flat head shanked nails on a fence. this toll will not do that

I’ve Used them many hours per day and many days on end, went through many many boxes of nails. I have never had one break down yet, knock on wood.