4 ft. x 10 ft. Double Reflective Insulation Air Roll with Double Bubble

cooler

Yes. I have done this in my RV for window insulation and black out.

While I do not know NYC rules, I would not recommend it for this use if your basement is the least bit damp.

2 rolls should cover it

I don't have the label that came with the insulation but if you're using it on windows to reduce the thermal impact of the Sun, it's the best one out there. I've used R-Tech Insularfoam (ultra duty and R value) and found the reflective roll to be more manageable with no toxticity as the R-Tech bleeds out toxic gases when exposed directly to the Sun.

This material is very similar to bubble wrap with a thin reflective surface on both sides. In this heat source area I would not recommend it.

No, this cannot be installed.

It does not reflect light, it reflects heat radiation.

Dear Jonathon: First, reflective / radiant barrier products provide almost no insulation by themselves -- just R-1. The claims on the package are based on a sealed air gap you must build. This air gap is responsible for almost all of the claimed R-value. Second, reflective / radiant barrier products do not perform in the winter because cold cannot be 'reflected' and the warmer air inside your home is not radiant. Think about the first issue with a garage door, for example. You would need to create sealed air pockets in every panel of your garage door, and make sure they don't leak as the garage door flexes over time. You cannot simply glue a radiant barrier to the garage door, or fasten it with velcro or adhesive pads. If you do, the radiant barrier will reflect infrared energy back to the door, which will heat the air in the gap even further, which will flow into your garage just like it did before. You basically built a solar air heater. And in the winter, R-1. Standard insulation is easier to install and provides high R-value, summer and winter. For your garage ceiling, you would need to create a sealed air gap across the entire ceiling, or multiple air gaps. Cold during the winter will not be 'reflected', so the air gap will only reduce a fraction of the heat lost from the joist bays above -- where your pipes are located. (The garage ceiling will not be radiating infrared like a hot roof on the summer.) This is why standard insulation products sold by Home Depot are almost always superior, summer and winter. For your garage door see the Owens Corning kit, which is easy to install and delivers R-8 summer and winter: Model # GD01, Home Depot Internet #202257272 Store SKU #744925 Garage ceilings are often poorly insulated and require additional steps: (1) The best solution is to remove the drywall garage ceiling and completely fill the joist bays with rock wool, which delivers R-4.1 per inch of thickness. You can stuff it around water and drain pipes, HVAC ducts, etc. See: RockWool Model # RXCB551525, Home Depot Internet #205972546. Different thicknesses are available to match 2x6 or 2x8 joists. Rock wool is also fire resistant -- which improves safety, particularly if bedrooms are located above a garage. If you live in an area with cold winters, then install 1" or 2" thick sheets of XPS foam board on the bottom of the joists, and seal all of the joints and edges to block air leaks. This will add R-5 to R-10, plus break all of the 'thermal bridges' created by the edges of the (formerly) exposed wood joists, and allow you to air-seal the surface. DAP 230 is a good sealant for joints and small gaps. The 'Window and Door' version of Great Stuff spray foam is good for larger gaps. Then install your new drywall ceiling. See: Foamular 250 XPS Model # 52DD, Home Depot Internet #202085962 Store SKU #307101 (2) A less effective option is to cover your existing drywall ceiling with 2" XPS foam board, seal all of the joints and edges to block air leaks, then install a new drywall ceiling over the foam board. (The new layer of drywall is necessary because foam board is flammable and must be covered by an approved thermal barrier; the standard is 1/2" drywall.) This will add R-10, break the thermal bridges and help you air-seal the ceiling. In summary, there is no quick and easy fix for most insulation problems. I hope this detail is helpful. Mark

No it is not for moisture protection, it is more an insulator.