Dear Billster13: Reflectix is definitely NOT the right product for this application. First, it is made of plastic with a maximum service temp of 180 degrees F. Second, Reflectix provides only R-1 insulation by itself; you would need to build an air gap to achieve the claims on the package. The best option is rock wool, which provides R-4.1 per inch of thickness and is fire resistant. Build a 3" gap between the BBQ and the fridge, and fill it with rock wool. Then mount a piece of 1/2" plywood or an aluminum panel on the fridge side, to seal off the rock wool. This will put R-12.3 between your BBQ and the fridge. A small air gap on the side of the firdge would also be a good idea. I hope this is helpful. Mark
Dave, we do not recommend using Reflectix in a windshield as a sunscreen or in any application. The high reflectivity of our product can cause damage to and around the windshield.
Dear Vance: No. The 'bubble wrap' is not designed to carry any load, e.g. on a floor. Plus it will provide almost no insulation. If you want to insulate the floor, use Foamular 250 foam board which provides R-10 insulation and 25 PSI compressive strength - ideal for residential floors. Seal the joints and perimeter to stop air leaks. DAP 230 works well for the joints and small gaps. Use the 'Window and Door' version of Great Stuff spray foam for the perimeter and larger gaps. When you add the Hardie Backer panels, make sure they do not align with a seam in the foam board, and seal the seams and perimeter in the same way. I hope this is helpful. Mark
Dear Peter: Refledctix and similar reflective / radiant barrier products provide almost no insulation by themselves - just R-1 for Reflectix. You must build a sealed air gap to achieve the R-6 claims on the package. In your shed, this air gap must also be vented, e.g. with cool air entering along the bottom of the roof and exiting from a ridge vent at the peak of the roof. Plus, these products do not work during the winter because cold cannot be 'reflected' and the warmer air inside your shed is not radiant. Standard insulation products sold by Home Depot are almost always more effective. I recommend 2" thick polyisocyanurate foam board, which you can screw to the underside of the roof and walls. This will deliver R-13 and will allow you to air seal the inner surface. If you have 2x framing on the interior, vents along the bottom and peak of the roof and bottom and top of the walls would be a good addition, with the foam board screwed to surface of the framing. Seal the joints and perimeter to block air leaks. DAP 230 or HVAC mastic work well for joints and small gaps. Use the 'Window and Door' version of Great Stuff spray foam for larger gaps. One general note on insulation: If the air temperature outside is 105 degrees, the temperature inside your shed will gradually climb to 105 degrees during the door - even with insulation. The insulation described above will eliminate super heated air and infrared heat from the sun-heated roof and walls. To cool your shed below 105 degrees, you would need to add a small air conditioner. The insulation will make it much more effective. I hope this is helpful. Mark
I also wrapped my hot water heater in my house and I've had no problems. It's a great insulation material and I have no fear the heater will melt the material.
Dear Rod: Modern building science shows that vapor barriers should never be installed on walls unless you live in an area with very cold winters, e.g. Canada or Alaska. Walls need to be able to dry to at least one side. Reflectix is made from plastic with a very thin aluminized coating, so it will function as a vapor barrier. The best option over studs and behind drywall is a 1" or 2" thick layer of XPS (Foamular) foam board. This will add R-5 to R-10, break all of the 'thermal bridges' created by the (previously) exposed wood studs, and allow you to air seal the wall. After you screw the XPS panels to the studs, seal all of the joints and perimeter to block air leaks. DAP 230 or HVAC mastic work well for joints and small gaps. Use the 'Window and Door' version of Great Stuff spray foam for the perimeter and larger gaps. Also seal the gaps around electric outlets. I hope this is helpful, Mark
Dear CM: Reflectix and similar reflective / radiant barrier products will not provide effective insulation in your crawl space. First, they provide almost not R-value by themselves -- just R-1 for Reflectix. Second, you must build a sealed air gap to achieve the claims on the package. Third, these products do not work during the winter because cold cannot be 'reflected' and the warmer air inside your home is not radiant. (Emitting significant infrared energy.) The best solution: fill your joist bays with rock wool, which delivers R-4.1 per inch of thickness. A standard batt will provide R-15, and thicker versions are available for 2x6 or 2x8 joists -- with higher R-values. This far exceeds the warm-weather claims of Reflectix, and rock wool works year round. Use Simpson insulation wire to hold the batts securely up on the joist bays. If you live in an area with cold winters, take another step. Screw panels of Foamular foam board to the bottom of your joists. This will add R-5 per inch of thickness, plus breaak all of the 'thermal bridges' created by the (previously) exposed wood joists, and allow you to air-seal the floor -- which is almost as important as R-value. Carefully seall all of the joints and perimeter to block air leaks. DAP 230 and HVAC mastic work well for joints and small gaps. Use the ' Window and Door' version of Great Stuff spary foam for the perimeter and larger gaps. A caveat: Foam board is flammable and should not be installed near any source of heat, e.g. if a furnace is installed in your crawl space. I hope this is helpful. Mark
Yes but the R value will only be about 3 due to the lack of air space. Great to work with and very durable.
Yes, as long as you have an air gap to help it insulate. You could verify with the company website: reflectixinc.com It resists mildew, insects, and rodents. I love the stuff.
You could tape it around a refrigerator, but I don't think it would do anything. It is designed to be stapled between studs in a wall.