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Model #BP48100

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48 in. x 100 ft. Double Reflective Insulation Roll

  • A wide roll for large projects
  • Multiple residential applications
  • 48 in. x 100 ft. double reflective insulation
  • See More Details

Frequently Bought Together


Product Overview

Save on your heating and cooling costs with this Reflectix Insulation roll. This double reflective insulation is perfect for a crawl space, radiant floor, attic or walls. It's fiber free so there's no need for protective clothing or respirator masks. This insulation is also easy to install - all you need is a stapler, tape measure, utility knife, straight edge and safety glasses. The wide width is great for large jobs and makes it ideal for contractors.
  • Reflectix 48 in. wide contractor size roll of double reflective insulation that is easy to handle and install
  • R-values range from R-3.7 to R-21 depending on application
  • Please note: this product arrives in a package 20-in H x 20-in W x 48-in L, please insure your vehicle can accommodate this dimension
  • Our energy-saving applications also include: HVAC ducts, water pipes, garage door, knee walls and water heater
  • Reflects up to 96% of radiant energy, reducing heating and cooling costs
  • Manufactured at a ISO 9001:2015 facility
  • Class A / class 1 fire rating
  • Installation is clean, no itchy fibers
  • Inhibits condensation and does not promote the growth of mold or mildew
  • Safe-to-handle and install, non-toxic and non-carcinogenic
  • Durable, lightweight and will not compress, collapse or disintegrate
  • Durable, lightweight and will not compress, collapse or disintegrate
  • No nesting characteristics for birds, insects or rodents
  • Vapor and radon retarder
  • Additional applications include wall and roof structures in metal and post frame buildings
  • Large rolls for big projects are available through the special order program or on www.homedepot.com
  • The right insulation can save on energy and heating and cooling bills. Check out our Buying Guide for helpful tips.
  • Eco options approved product
  • Click here to learn more about Eco Options and Energy Efficiency

Info & Guides

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Coverage Area (sq. ft.)
Product Length (ft.)
100 ft
Product Thickness (in.)
0.3125 in
Product Width (in.)


Compatible Install Surface
Cement,Concrete,Copper Pipes,Existing Drywall,Existing Insulation,Fiberglass,Metal,PVC/CPVC Pipes,Pex Pipes,Plywood,Tile Flooring,Wood
Install Temperature (F)
-60 to +180
Insulation Features
Formaldehyde Free,Vapor Retardant
Insulation R-Value
Insulation Type
Radiant Barrier
Product Weight (lb.)
Sheet or Roll

Warranty / Certifications

Warranty Information
Reflectix warrants its products to be free from material and workmanship defects.

Questions & Answers


I live in a rv that is stationary; and, one side faces the west (in south Texas), would this being applied inside wall and ceiling, reduce inside temp

Asked by Sam June 10, 2021

Dear Sam: No. Reflective / radiant barrier products like Reflectix require a sealed air gap to deliver the claims on the package. You would need to install it fairly permanently - with this air gap. RVs are difficult to insulate because insulation performance is based on thickness -- and the walls of an RV are thin, and often poorly insulated -- if at all. The best option in southwest Texas would be to see if you can block / reflect the sunlight before it hits your RV. If it is stationary, for example, can you install thin sheets of reflective aluminum on the roof -- with a ~1" air gap? These panels could be mounted so that they could be removed for travel. Similarly, awnings that block the sun on the sides will help. I hope this is helpful -- the problem is difficult to solve. Mark

I'm a senior female and live in a house that's extremely hot in the summer. I tried covering win...

Asked by HomeDepotShopper June 8, 2021

Dear Shopper: If your windows are double-pane, reflective / radiant barriers like this can overheat the window and damage the seals. If your home gets very hot in the summer, it needs insulation. Start with the attic. Blown cellulose is best, and should be 18" deep when it is installed. Talk to your Home Depot Customer Service dept; they can recommend contractors in your area who can provide a cost estimate. It would also be a good idea to install a couple of air conditioners in windows in key rooms. Any 'handy man' or friend with a few tools can take care this. Home Depot sells window air conditioners; their Customer Service desk could also recommend a contractor if needed, to take care of the installation - which shouldn't take more than an hour for two units.. There is no way to make windows "heat proof". The only solution is to install new high efficiency windows, which is costly. I hope this is helpful. Mark

Will this product help stop condensation sweat on my exposed HVAC ducts in areas where is no cent...

Asked by Kev June 5, 2021

Dear Kev: Yes, but if you have exposed HVAC ducts in undonditioned space, e.g. your garage or attic, your electricity bills are rising for no reason. It would be far better to insulate your ducts. Wrap them with fiberglass duct insulation, which will also cure the condensation problem. See: Masterflow Model #INSWRP60R8, Home Depot Internet #302000644, UPC Code #050206100141, Store SKU #1002520421 Seal all of the seams and joints with foil HVAC tape - NOT silver fabric 'duck' tape. Home Depot carries the Nashua brand. If you have ducts in your attic, this is also a good approach. If they already have some insulation, e.g. insulated flex duct, add another layer of Masterflow duct wrap. I installed two layers for R-16 at my home, which made a significant difference. If the ducts run in joist bays in the ceiling, it may be easier to fill the joist bay with rock wool insulation -- which is much denser than fiberglass and delivers R-4.1 per inch of thickness. You can hold the insulation in the bay with thick poly sheet stapled to the joists, or drywall etc. Rock wool fibers are irritating like fiberglass, so wear gloves and a good dust mask when you install it. I hope this is helpful. Mark

Will this insulation impact hdtv antenna reception?

Asked by Brian May 16, 2021

Dear Brian: Foil faced products do block some RF energy, e.g. radio, cellular phone and antenna-based TV signals.. The windows and walls of your home will typically allow enough RF through, however, to avoid significant problems. Thanks for including the photo of your attic. A question: Were the HVAC ducts wrapped with standard duct insulation, before they were covered with Reflectix? If not, this would be a smart upgrade. Reflectix by itself provides only R-1. You must build / create a sealed air gap to achieve the claims on the package, and performance declines as dust collects on the surface. Reflective / radiant barriers also don't work in the winter because cold cannot be 'reflected' and the warmer air in your home is not radiant (emitting lots of infrared energy). It would be a good idea to wrap the ducts with two of more layers of fiberglass duct wrap for R-8 to R-16. Use foil HVAC tape to seal all of the seams and joints -- NOT silver fabric 'duck' tape. There is no need to replace the Reflectix after installing the duct wrap. See: Masterflow Model #INSWRP60R8, Home Depot Internet #302000644, UPC Code #050206100141, Store SKU #1002520421 Hopefully there is also insulation under the Reflectix stapled to the rafters. I hope this is helpful. Mark

Can this have blown insulation installed over it?

Asked by BJE April 6, 2021

Dear BJE: Read up on the details for reflective / radiant barriers; there are good articles on Fine Homebuilding and GreenBuildingAdvisor. In a nutshell: (1) These products by themselves provide almost no insulation R-value; just R-1 for Reflectix. (2) Reflective / radiant barriers do not work during the winter because cold cannot be 'reflected' and the warmer air inside your home is not 'radiant' (emitting lots of infrared energy). (3) You must build / create an air gap to achieve the claims on the label. This air gap is responsible for almost all of the R-value. In some applications the air gap is sealed. In others, it must be vented. So if you plan to install blown-in insulation, e.g. blown cellulose (highly recommended) this is almost certainly in an attic. So installing a reflective / radient barrier UNDER the blown cellulose will achieve almost no benefit. If it is already installed, you can blow your new cellulose over it - no problem. Good choice on blown cellulose. Here are some suggestions: Depending on where your home is located and how much insulation is currently in your attic, you should have R-38 to R-60 in most parts of the USA. So it would be a good idea to consider blowing in a deeper layer. A copy of the zone map for the USA is attached below, showing the recommended R-values for attics. To achieve R-38 you would need to install blown cellulose 11.6 inches deep - which will become 10.44 inches after the cellulose settles. At this depth, you will get a maximum of 24.4 square feet per bag or 40.9 bags (minimum) per 1,000 square feet. Contractors typically add 10% to the 'optimum' to account for variations, so 45 bags per 1,000 square feet would be a good number for R-38 See the chart from Green Fiber, attached below. (Note: Cellulose settles 13% over time; the chart from Green Fiber attached below includes settling and the typical space taken up by ceiling joists.) Blown cellulose is a great solution for attics. Here are some tips for installation: (1) Step 1: Seal all air leaks. Before you add more insulation, carefully find and seal all of the air leaks into your attic. Recessed ceiling lights are culprit #1: install Tenmat covers and seal the edges with DAP 230 sealant. See: Tenmat Model # FF130E Home Depot Internet # 204286308 Store SKU # 1000012747 and DAP 230, Home Depot Internet #100035980 Store SKU #284425 Store SO SKU #1000058280 You can also quickly create covers with a piece of drywall; simply tape the edges with foil HVAC tape and seal the bottom edge with 3M fire resistant sealant. (See the details below.) Great Stuff foam is good to fill larger gaps and holes -- but do not use it near anything that gets hot, e.g. recessed lights, a chimney or exhaust vent. For gaps near a hot exhaust vent, fill the space with rock wool, then cover it with fire resistant sealant, e.g. 3M Model CP-25WB+, Home Depot Internet #100166701 Store SKU #163096 For the large gap next to a chimney, cover it with aluminum flashing (available at Home Depot) nailed to the joists, and seal the edges with 3M sealant. (2) Do not block soffit vents that circulate air in a standard vented attic. These vents are located along the soffits at the bottom edge of the roof. They cannot be covered and blocked by your blown-in cellulose. Install a 'channel cover' in each rafter bay to provide a protected opening for air to flow. See: ADO Provent Model # UPV14480, Home Depot Internet #100533902 Store SKU #739684. (3) Recessed ceiling lights: Some recessed ceiling light cans are designed for "direct insulation contact" -- and some are not. Carefully check your ceiling lights to see if they are rated for direct contact. If not, this would create a fire hazard if they are covered with insulation. If your ceiling lights are not 'direct contact' rated, you will need to build a box around each light -- to keep insulation away from the light. The quickest, cheapest and best option is to use drywall to create a simple box over each light. Tape the joints with foil HVAC tape. Home Depot also sells Tenmat covers that you can use to cover most lights. See: Tenmat Model # FF130E, Home Depot Internet #204286308, UPC Code # 859812004016 Store SKU #1000012747 Either way, seal the edges to block air leaks; HVAC mastic or DAP 230 work well. (4) Chimneys: If you have an internal chimney, first make sure the gap around it is air sealed, as noted above. Then build a 'dam' around it with drywall or 1" x 8" wood -- at lease 6" from the chimney surface. (5) Hot exhaust vents: Similarly, make sure the gap around exhaust vents are well-sealed as noted above. Then build a 'dam' around each vent, like the dam around a chimney. (6) If you have forced air HVAC ducts in your attic, you are probably losing significant $$ winter and summer. Before you add cellulose insulation, seal all of the ducts connections and seams carefully with mastic. See: Master Flow Model # WBA50, Home Depot Internet #100396973 Store SKU #559722. Then wrap the ducts in multiple layers of duct insulation. See: Master Flow Model # INSWRP60, Home Depot Internet #100152008 Store SKU #363984 Store SO SKU #1000684734. Fasten the wrap and seal all of the seams with foil HVAC tape -- NOT silver fabric "duck" tape. See: Nashua Model # 1207792, Home Depot Internet #100030120 Store SKU #915245 Then bury the ducts in 6+ inches of blown cellulose. (7) Install sticks vertically around your attic, screwed to the joists, with a mark showing the X inch depth -- so it will be easy to see when you have achieved the right level in each area. Remember the 'settling factor'. (8) Both people (in the attic and at the blower) should wear a good dust mask -- NOT the kind with a rubber band on the back. See: 3M Model # 6297PA1-A, Home Depot Internet #202078789, Store SKU #861149 One caveat: People sometimes think they can insulate their own walls with blown cellulose. This requires a high pressure blower and experience. The blower used for attics is low pressure and does not require experience. Home Depot can recommend a contractor if you want to insulate your walls. I hope all of this detail is helpful. Mark

Would it work to insulate a cargo van

Asked by Mac March 27, 2021

Technically yes but it would have to include air gaps to work as effectively as labeled for R value. I think You'd likely get better results with rigid foam with a foil facing If the van has minor curves a few thin sheets layered would aid in flexibility.

What adhesive would be recommended to attach this to the support beams of a steel barn on the ins...

Asked by ZJDiy March 26, 2021

I would recommend spray on contact cement. However I have been installing some floors in my home, and the "Releasable Pressure Sensitive Adhesive" would also seem to work really well. It can be applied with a disposable paint brush, and seems to be sticky enough that it will work on the walls to support the light weight reflectix. It also seems like it would work well to seam the two layers, so that there will not be a air gap between the lower and upper layer of Reflectix.

Can this be used outside?

Asked by Hoss March 22, 2021

Dear Hoss: No. First, Refelctix and similar reflective / radiant barrier products are designed only for indoor applications. They will degrade quickly outdoor. Second, reflective / radiant barriers do not provide effective insulation by themselves -- just R-1 for Reflectix. You must build a sealed air gap, and this air gap is responsible for almost all of the claimed insulation value. Third, reflective / radiant barriers do not work during the winter for almost all applications, because cold cannot be 'reflected' and warmer air inside your home etc. is not radiant. So, the best insulation for your drinking water storage tank is standard insulation from Home Depot, e.g. foam board and rock wool. Build an enclsoure around your tank, then fill it with >6" thickness of rock wool, which will provide R-24.6. Make sure the enclosure covers the entire tank, including the top. If the base of the tank is resting on the ground, you need to make sure the enclosure can be sealed tightly against the ground to prevent air leaks. Then install 1" thick Foamular foam board on the outside of your enclosure. This will add R-5, plus help you air-seal the exterior. If the water tank sits on the ground, dig a narrow trench at least a foor deep around the enclosure -- so you can extend the foam board into the trench, below the surface. Backfill the trench. This will help to air-seal the base and will help to insulate the earth below the tank. Foamular foam board does not absorb water and is fine for below-grade installations. Then carefilly seal all of the joint on the foam board. DAP 230 works well for joints and small gaps. Use the 'Window and Door' version of Great Stuff spray foam for larger gaps. If the enclosure abuts your house, the edges along the house must also be air-sealed. Depending on the size of your water tank enclosure, you could then install trim and matching siding -- or trim the edges and paint it. The foam board must be covered in some way, e.g. with siding or paint, because it will degrade in the sun over time. One final caveat: even with thick and effective insulation like the plan described above, a well insulated object will gradually move to the same temperature as its surroundings. There must be some source of heat in the winter, for example to keep your water tank from freezing. This could be from new water moving through the tank, or if the tank enclsure abuts your house it could be a bit of warmth from the house. So if your tank is very close to your home, "attach" the enclosure to it. If the tank is completely separate from your home, the ground will provide some moderation in the winter -- with the buried foam boar around the tank -- but if you have very cold winters a small electric heater will be needed to keep the tank above 32 degrees. The insulation will make this heater much more efficient. I hope all of this detail is helpful. You have an interesting problem to solve! Mark

Will this product work on a house build on pier and beam?.

Asked by Gabe March 6, 2021


Can I use this on an RV Portable Water Softener tank to keep it from freezing?

Asked by JackFrost February 25, 2021


48 in. x 100 ft. Double Reflective Insulation Roll - page 2

Customer Reviews

  • 4.8
    out of 383 reviews
  • 95% recommend this product
Filter by:
Showing 1-10 of 383 reviews
lined inner garage door. blocks considerable heat in garage. much cheaper than prefabbed kits and I have 1/2 roll left over to do my inlaws door as well.
by slick2635
7 people found this helpful
So far, so good
We have a climate controlled garage with a bonus room and bedroom above it. The rooms above it were always hot in the summer and freezing in the winter. A few months ago, I checked out the attic around the bedroom and saw that the only insulation was r12 on the kneewalls. So we decided to put up some radiant barrier and then add unfaced r30 to the floor. Since it was January, it started out really cold in the attic, and as we got the Reflectix installed, the attic temperature became much more comfortable. That bedroom temperature has been much more consistent and warm since installing. We cant wait to finish the rest of the attic.
by Jwalt
4 people found this helpful
Very nice and durable product, you can walk right on top of it and the bubbles will not pop.
Very nice and durable product, you can walk right on top of it and the bubbles will not pop.
by Paul
6 people found this helpful
We used it to insulate a trailer and it was simple to install.
We used it to insulate a trailer and it was simple to install.
by Doityourselfer
3 people found this helpful
I purchased this rolled Insulation as an idea and an attempt to lower the unbearable garage tempe...
I purchased this rolled Insulation as an idea and an attempt to lower the unbearable garage temperatures this past summer. Our garage door faces West and would absorb the extreme afternoon temps daily with indoor garage temperatures reaching 104 degrees. The outdoor surface temperature of the garage door would read 130 degrees during the scorching summer months. Due to these extreme temperatures, I was also concerned with the best method to adhere the insulation to the interior panels of the door that would hold up and not peel off. I researched and decided on using Roberts Max Grip Double-sided Permanent Carpet Tape found in the flooring section at Home Depot. It took my wife and I approximately 2 hrs to install on our 2 car garage. The difference inside the garage has been staggering and now have a comfortable temperature range we can live with. The infrared reader was measuring 130 on the exterior door and approx. 84 on the interior this past summer so the average temperature change has been -22-25 degrees. It holding up great after the first summer.
by AlexFL
24 people found this helpful
Easy and works great!
The reflective insulation was excellent to work with, had no fiberglass, went on easy and worked fine. We used the insulation in knee wall areas. We took readings on the wall before and after with an electronic infrared thermometer to prove it made a difference. It made a definite difference in that room which is 45 feet long by 14 feet wide. We were pleased with the results.
14 people found this helpful
Easy to install
I still have to see how well this helps my garage in the winter but installation was easy. I have a single, two car garage door. I measured and cut each panel, then used Loctite PL375 to glue it to the sections. I didn't have to make any adjustments to the garage door opener and I have a good amount of the insulation left over for something else. I may consider adding another layer or using it in the attic. My garage is part of the house but not heated. I'm hoping to at least keep it above freezing this January. The bedrooms above the garage get pretty cold, especially the floors. The finished look is definitely better than the plain steel panels. I think it's quieter in there too, I don't hear the cars passing by any more.
by Rich46
10 people found this helpful
Update and protect your crawlspace HVAC board box ductwork
I needed to "weatherproof" the crawlspace duct board from the summer moisture that attacks the exterior of the duct board over time. To accomplish this I disconnected the flex ducts from the unit, cleaned the entire surface area on the board boxes then sealed and taped any leaks in the existing 20 foot long unit. Next I tightly wrapped the board box with the product, reinstalled the flex ducts and taped the seams. The unit now has a brand new moisture proof surface area that is completely sealed and looks awesome. This also added an additional R3 insulation factor to the unit. Nice product considering the cost vs end result.
by Terry
8 people found this helpful
Pole barn insulation
Product arrived in a very timely manner. Very easy to work with. Only needed a few basic tools to install. We used a utility knife, straight edge, and a stapler with 1/2 inch staples.
by HomeDepotCustomer
10 people found this helpful
So easy to work with.
I installed this product all by myself on the inside of my garage doors. It took me about 2 hours to measure, cut the pieces and install in the doors. Really looking forward to seeing how well it helps reduce the very hot AZ temps in my garage and by extension the inside of my house in the next couple of months. It was totally painless to install. :)
by Lauri
12 people found this helpful
Showing 1-10 of 383 reviews