80 lb. Gray Concrete Mix

It was dusty, wet, the. Hard!! The way it should be.

Work real good

It really it did the work well

Solidified already in the bag

This was the first time I had to work with concrete, and the instructions on how to prepare the mix was very simple and clear. I had to create 4 16x16x27 deep foundation holes which I needed to mount 10 foot sun shade steel poles. each hole required 6 80lb bags of Sakrete. Granted the mixing was the hard part, however filling in the holes and packing the concrete was very simple.

Im not a concrete worker at all but it sure does mix well with a mixer. Dries good and is easy to work with

Worked excellent with our paver grids, DIY project coming along good. 1st time user

Great product but the bag don't drop or drag it will open. I based and filled the cinder block retaining wall with the product.

I bought three 80-pounders (versus four 60-pounders) due to my local HD had just drop shipped pallets and were not fully unloaded. The 80 pound bags have the same contents as the 60 pound bags. I just find the 60 pound bags easier to handle. However, if you are doing a large project with a mixer, the 80 pound bags will mean less bag opening an bags to get rid of. As far as the material itself, this high-strength concrete was ideal for my project. I was installing a bollard into my garage to protect the gas appliances from vehicle impacts. After drilling many holes using a concrete bit into my garage pad, I was able to make a 9" hole through the floor and dug out a tapered hole 36" deep. I added water to the hole and added the concrete to about 6" deep using a pole to poke and mix. I had a 6'x3-1/2" steel conduit into the concrete keeping it centered in the hole and plumb. About half the pole was below the surface. I slowly added more concrete in 6" layers. I put my drill on the roto-hammer setting and inserted a short rod into the chuck. I placed my 1" poke pole in the concrete and inserted the rod into the other end. This allowed me to vibrate and compress the concrete as I filled the hole. 2-1/2 bags later, I reached the top of the hole. I then filled the bollard with concrete vibrating it as I filled it. I used 240 pounds - all three bags for this project). Upon reaching the top, I added a large ball of concrete to the pole and shaped it round. To help get it perfectly round, I took a piece of scrap wood and cut a 3-1/2" hole in it, then cut it in half. This template helped me to get the top spherical. TIP: If you want extra hard concrete, prevent cracking or shrinking, I learned a long time ago to let the concrete dry slowly. I put a sponge and bucket of water next to the pole and wet it 2-3 times a day for a week before letting it dry out. This allows the crystals in the matrix to grow larger and intertwine more, making the concrete much harder. To finish, after the concrete dried completely, I took a sander with rough 80 grit and smoothed the top and the surface around the pole. As this will never be as smooth as my pad, I took rock hard putty (a gypsum powder you just add water to - also available at HD), and coated over the concrete to help smooth the surface. It basically fills the depressions between the grains of concrete. I used a medium to fine sandpaper to smooth that. I finished with using epoxy spray paint to paint the pole, top and base. Jeff.