I purchased this because the Home Depot Electrical Sales Associate said that my challenger breakers were supposed to fit right in...and for some reason I have not been able to get one to go in all the way - although they are in far enough to work. Otherwise the box is perfectly fine. These same breakers worked fine in my old Challenger box. Perhaps it's just me...will play around with it a bit more and if I can make it happen will update this.

Used this in my garage. Good value.

This is about as basic as they come as far as breaker boxes go. I would not use it as a main panel since there are only six slots. However, it was perfect for the garage I built. Normally i would opt for a panel with a door, but since it is in a garage this was acceptable. I ran four 110v 20 amp circuits, and one 220v 30 amp circuit for a compressor. This makes a great sub panel if it is in an inconspicuous location.

Square D Homeline panel review: Great panel / system but there are some issues to address; is this a punishment for choosing the "Home-lIne" at a big box store vs electrical supply store? I needed to replace a 4 breaker GE Slim-line TQL with one that had more slots and the ability to run a two-pole breaker for a 220v feed to an additional sub-panel. WHY: I prefer Cuttler-Eaton (C-E) and own two: a main panel and two sub panels. I like to have the same brand panel and breakers. By code, even when a panel accepts different brand breakers the brand is supposed to be the same for both. In this case Home Depot did not sell a panel that fit the narrow dimension in the C-E brand so this was the only choice offering flush mount and indoor use. I also didn't need a door and limited room for a door to open. NOTE: If used as a sub-panel you will need the optional ground bus bar kit PK7GTA. Its offered in small, medium and large at Home depot for $4 to $7. There are 4 mounting points in the corners of the panel. GOOD: Excellent quality box, fit and finish, paint, etc. Knockouts - I used my Estwing starter nail pry bar and hammer to knock them out. It took two really hard hits then wiggle with a pliers. All snapped off clean, same with the breaker slots. Breaker fit - breakers are extremely secure once mounted. Much, much tighter then the GE slim-line and about 30% tighter than the standard Cuttler Eaton panels that I normally use. Price / Value - Installed a Quad breaker which was 30A two-pole in the center and two 20A narrow Tandem style breakers on each edge for a total of 3 circuits. This cost ~ $19.48 + tx which was cheaper than purchasing a separate 30A two pole, and two 20A single pole breakers AND saved space taking up 2 slots vs 4 and looks cool. BAD (but not a deal breaker) 1. Quad Breaker - uses #2Square Drive for the two 20A breakers but uses the dated Slotted screws in the center - huh? Why not use the universal #2 SQ drive? Why return the ancient mostly no longer used slotted screws? 2. Quad Breaker - Had to push harder than any breaker I have ever installed in any brand of panel including a modern double pole, two "slot" 60A Zinco (type UZI) breaker. I had to push so hard I though I was going to either break the panel or push it through the wall. I was afraid of breaking or weakening the plastic rail on the bottom that the breaker sits in and pivots on. I removed and reseated the breaker a few times to make sure I had it seated properly. It went in a little more smoothly the second and third time. Also, breakers were newly purchased in the "tripped" position and were had contact grease on them. Inserting the wires is often difficult to see visually when the breaker is installed however twice when I inserted the 10 gauge wire in the center 30A breaker and tighten the slotted screw it fell out. I looked carefully with a flashlight and saw the that wire was not under the screw and slipped behind the screw into a tiny space so that the wire went inside? the breaker. I can't remember having that problem with other breakers. 3. Single pole 15/20A Breakers - odd design that appears to accept two wires in a curved guide - one on each side of the screw. The wire needs to be inserted right or left of center. I prefer the standard way that Cuttler-Eaton, Murry, and most breakers use and I don't really see much benefit in this and it doesn't feel as durable. Again, not a deal breaker. 4. Instructions - Subpanel - Ground bus bar kit. I didn't find any reference to this in the instructions and only found the ground buss bar kit mentioned on the outside of the box. Because this is a very small panel the chances are quite high that the installer will be using it as a subpanel. The instructions should cover this basic common alternative setup vs a main panel aka "Main Lug" that this and most other brands ship as. Although, I am aware of this I don't install panels very often so I needed a reminder.

Used this panel to replace an ancient, now unsafe sub-panel. Went smoothly. Given the number of circuits I would have liked a bit more space inside the panel for routing, but in the end things are safe and tidy.

The knockouts were extremely hard to get right cause you hit the center out and the whole piece comes out. But for the price I will buy it again.

Great product at a fair price! Thanks.

Needed a sub panel. This was the answer. It’s a great product.