Use a high speed oscillating multi tool with a fine tooth blade. Tin snips or heavy duty scissors work O.K. Look on You Tube for more ideas.
Use the recommended 1 corrugation overlap and pay attention to adhering to the minimum pitch. Too little of a pitch will slow down the shedding of water and allow it (the water) to wick into the overlapped seams.
#1, you are probably talking about a butyl tape sealant, which comes in a roll of 40 feet. It's cheap, and it's what Pros use to seal the edges of panels. It's not in every Home Depot store for sure, but it's super common to use this stuff. It is necessary to use this on any roof that is lower than 3:12. You might need it more so in heavy snow areas and where the underneath is unheated. Look for this at Home Depot: 1/4 in. x 40 ft. Butyl Rubber Sealant Tape Model # 40BT Internet #207149821 Store SKU #457389 (Or its equivalent) Use that butyl tape on long panel overlaps on low pitch roofs. Clear or metal. You then put in "lap" or "stitch" screws to hold the two adjacent panels together, mashing the butyl tape together, about every 20 to 24 inches. You should not use the regular Tek or metal roofing screws that are woodgrip and long. Stitch screws are 3/4 or 7/8 inch long. The end closures are a completely different component. They seal the structure to keep something mostly air tight and keep blowing rain out; they do not seal the roof from rain showers and gravity flowing water. Those closures are for sealing the building, and are sometimes left out, especially at the lower end (eave). The upper ones at the roof peak are more important for rain storms.
Hello Decked, glad to help answer your question. Personally I would have a 3 inch drop on slope over the entire length. Good luck with your project.
I believe this would work very well as long as you seal it properly. Use of a waterproof sealant around all the edges would keep out the water and moisture .
Hello WelderDude! Glad to help answer your question. Yes, very well however they will not last 20 years. They will need replacement eventually. Bakersfield Sun will suck the life out of everything... LoL... Hope this helped.
Hello Helpmyself, glad to help answer your question. Personally I would install to wood furring strips however it can be mounted directly to the frame with proper screws. Hope this helped.
It depends on how much air flows through it. I built a 12 x 12 greenhouse with the stuff about 8 years ago. In the summer, I remove the front suntuff panels and open the back doors to get air flow through. Even on cloudy days, here near Seattle, you notice how much warmer the greenhouse is. If you're in a sunny warm climate you might considered colored panels or use shade cloth. One other note is my clear panels did dull after several years. A friend said I should power wash them every year, but I'm sure that would lead to other problems. I will say they're tough as mine have easily handled several significant snow loads and all our hail storms. Follow the installation instructions and you shouldn't have any problems.
I used this product in the winter for one time use event, so no heat to speak of but there is no doubt that in direct sun it will synthesize heat. Good luck, Gina
Hello Stell, glad to help answer your question. After a few months it is still clear but dusty. Washing off with warm soapy water & rinse helps. After 3 years or so it seems clear enough but a little bit less clear than new. Hope this helps.