Sure-Vent 1-1/2 in. x 2 in. PVC Air Admittance Valve with 160 DFU Branch and 24 DFU Stack

Yes but not a sealed wall. There needs to be access to change the valve if it fails and also needs a louvered panel for air.

Yes. It would need to be approved by the toilet system manufacture and local municipality. Also it would need to be installed per our AAV ejector drawing. If you contact technical@oatey.com we can provide that drawing for you.

There are only two reasons that I know of that could cause the AAV to leak (I assume leaking water not leaking air). The first is that it is improperly installed. It has to be installed in a vertical position, between the trap and the main drain line, as explained in the instructions. What the correct installation does is keep it above the water flow therefor not able to leak water. The other possible way it could leak when properly installed is if there is a major blockage in the main drain line causing water to back up to the extent that it would leak from the AAV. Good luck, hope this information helps.

it seems that the 39017 is the current model of the 39007. My relocated sink was too far from the stack, so I used this to vent. No problems, no "gurgles"

Preventing back flow and allowing air to enter (but not leave) the system is the purpose of this valve. This valve should be installed higher than your drains, so when installed properly, back ups will occur at the drains.

You can drain gray water in most areas out on your land but check your local codes. I’d also consider using bio safe detergent products. Here’s a helpful link: https://modernfarmer.com/2017/03/laundry-garden-irrigate-graywater/ You have three concerns I see: 1) you’re pushing through corrugated pipe which may be smooth walled internally, check this; if it isn’t try to convert to a smooth wall; 2) you’re pushing water up hill and some machines can handle this but, put a back flow valve in the line. This backflow valve will allow your machine to work less and keep water from coming back. Check your machines rating and make sure it can handle pushing water above your 8’ mark; and 3) consider using a cistern then a pump to push your water. See attached picture. Note: I haven’t addressed the vent because on an up hill push a vent would have to be higher then your washer or backflow valve or the water is coming out the vent. I’d not put in a vent but focus on reducing line friction by running straight smooth wall pipe and maybe consider at the termination point putting in a dry well to release the water at a lower height. Also, consider placing pest wire mesh at your pipe exit to prevent mice and the mesh is large enough to minimize clogging.

I wouldn't think heated/unheated would have any effect so I'd think an attic would be fine. Not sure how far above blown in insulation either for practicality or for code

This is not what you need. An air gap is a form of indirect connection of the drain. In very simple terms... if you have a strainer in the sink and are washing lettuce and leave it in the sink and attend to something else and the sewer system backs up into the sink that is directly connected to the drainage it would contaminate your lettuce. But if you have a physical gap it would over flow out that space before entering the sanitary sink. Usually this is achieved with the tailpiece that is connected to the sink drain pointed down at what we call a receptor. Which most of the time would be something like a 4x2 inch pvc coupling or 1 1/2 in. X 3 in pvc coupling or something along those lines. That gap must be 1.5 x the diameter of the effective opening of the drain. Usually your tailpiece will be 1 1/2 in so the space between the bottom of the tailpiece and the top of the receptor must be a minimum of 2 1/4 inches. A floor sink may also be used depending on your application. The key is whatever you use for a receptor must adequately sized and positioned to recieve the discharge from the sink without splashing that would cause a hazard or lead to an unsanitary condition.

Don't know, but not sure it's a good idea. It will make your pump harder if the line runs down hill. Because you will destroy the suction of the water falling out the end of your line ( or a siphon ) This helps your pump not have to work so hard. If you have a freezing issue than if should be installed indoors and will allow the the pipe to drain without freezing, but at the cost of your pump always working hard. If the other end is is higher it will not do any thing for you!

Very good question! Never though of it. I believe yes as it may be installed anywhere, but would also like to find out for sure. If it is installed in the attic, it would solve the problem and wouldn’t cause any smell. Just wonder if it would provide enough airflow suction during 2 simultaneous toilet flushes. Anyway it is cheap and may only have to call roofer if an inspector complains.