R-30 Denim Insulation Batts 24.25 in. x 48 in. (8-Bags)

For walls, this insulation stays in place as a "friction fit", for ceiling installation you would need some temporary support to hold the insulation batting up, until your drywall for ceiling is in place. Many people don't insulate ceiling of basement; but I understand you are doing this more for sound proofing. (sound proofing acoustic foam could also work) Insulation in basement ceiling will also have more obstructions like plumbing, electrical wires and air ducts -and can require more time/cost for future maint work in basement. Before putting up the insulation, tack small nails (with at least 1/8-inch heads) to the ceiling joists -spaced about 2ft apart -leaving nail heads sticking out about 1/4 inch. (these may be placed on bottom of 2x8 joist, but it works better to place them on SIDE of joist, about 1 inch from bottom, angled up about 30 degrees) As you place batting UP in ceiling, use string to run Zig-Zag pattern looping arount head of nails and support batting, until drywall is added to ceiling. You can use same set of nails to support insulation on left AND right of the same ceiling/floor joist, so only need one row of nails per board. (string crosses over) Just leave the string in place, as you put your drywall on ceiling. When putting up drywall in ceiling, be sure to add access panels for water+gas shut-off valves, or pressure regulator... You may also be using a drop-ceiling (with removable panels) in the basement. (This will allow for easier maint/upgrade work 5 years later) With a drop-ceiling the string supports will be the only support which holds insulation batting between floor/ceiling joists, and you may want to add a second zig-zag string to nails, giving an "X" pattern, or space the nails closer together, so batting does not sag over time. ALSO: I advise taking photos BEFORE all work, and making detailed notes about all locations for plumbing, electrical, junction boxes, TV-cable, ducts, gas-pipes, and drain lines supporting the living area above your basement. ALL houses need maint/repair/renovation eventually, so you want to know where everything is located in that ceiling, before you close things up. Make printed copies for your "House File" that can be given to a work crew years from now, or even provided to new owners if/when you sell the house. ** Think ahead, and save headaches later **

You can take a look at the UltraTouch website on the right look for "FTC Fact Sheet" R-30 8" 15x48 25 Sqft each bag You are buying a bundle of 12 bags total of 300 Sqft

What I received was only 5", which is wrong and does not fulfill specification or R-rating. Via HomeDepot I contacted the manufacturer for rectification, they send me additional insulation for free.

Each bag is 4.2 lbs,

If you get the correct width for your application, you are all set. Because tearing this product is really easy. There are no "perforations." You just reach into it (with gloves) and tear it. It will tear ACROSS the baton very easily allowing you to tailor the length of each piece. However, if you try to tear it LENGTHWISE (not across), you will find it very difficult. So that is why I say to get the correct WIDTH and you're all set. Tearing the length off is easy and can be done by hand at the time of install (even without a knife).

Yes. The 15" is made for wood studs. The 16" is for metal studs.

It is about 3-4 inches thick

I dont want awhole pallet either.. just 2 or 3 why not sell it in smaller quantites

I would say yes, but I would add a vapor barrier. Once it gets wet it could create mold. Maybe add a layer of plastic underlayment first.

You'd have to spray the paint. Doubt you could roll on it. As far as the acoustics, painting it could make the surface "smoother" which would reflect the sound instead of distorting it like a rough surface will.