A: This tape is specifically designed for metal HVAC duct work. Not sure how well it would stick to pressed wood, since that might be more porous. I suggest looking at their web site (if one is available) for recommended applications.
A: Yes this tape will work in that application; to ensure the best adhesion check the the surface is clean from any loose particles and dry.
A: Thank you for your question. While Nashua 322 has not been tested for this specific use, we would expect it to adhere to the pressed wood material. Ensure it is as clean and dry as possible prior to application. Best of luck with your project.
A: Not very well, no.
A: Yes you can, however, Pressed wood, pressboard, and particle board all have a tendency to absorb moisture over time and may therefor swell and start to disintegrate, so I would first coat the area that you want to use the HVAC Tape on with 2 coats of a waterproof sealer.
A: Thank you for your question. Nashua Multi-Purpose Foil Tape is not the best choice for securing moisture barrier materials to cinder block. Premium duct tapes such as Nashua All Weather Duct Tape, Nashua 357 (available on homedepot.com), or Nashua Poly Sheeting Tape (also available on homedepot.com) are designed for a strong bond to rough surfaces and will perform better for this particular use. Best of luck with your project.
A: I would not recommend using this tape on cinder block. Try using Gorilla Tape.
A: It wont secure long to unpainted cinder block. Duct tape is much better for the price.... and easier to handle.
A: I would not use this product on cinder block. While it has good adhesion to a smooth surface, I would not trust it to stick to a porous surface like cinder block. There is also the added issue of concrete dust that will further weaken the tape's ability to hold. I'd be more inclined to use a Gorilla tape. It is thicker and has a greater adhesion to things like brick and block.
A: Cinder Block is porous, and generally will release loosely adhered particles if disturbed, so the tape will not stick well to it. I would recommend instead that you use a liquid sealer that is specially made for concrete.
A: Product Specifications UPC 742366999832 EAN 0742366999832 Global Trade Identification Number 00742366999832 Item Weight 1.25 pounds Length 46 meters Model Number 617001 Number of Items 1 Size 46 m Length Specification for this product family Part Number 1087671 Lower Temperature Rating 40 degrees_fahrenheit Upper Temperature Rating 200 degrees_fahrenheit Brand Name Nashua Color Aluminum Item Thickness 3.2 thousandths_inches Manufacturer Series Number 322 Material Aluminum Measurement System Metric Tensile Strength 11 pounds_per_square_inch UNSPSC Code 31201503 Width 48 millimeters
A: Thank you for your inquiry. Nashua 322 Multi-Purpose Foil Tape is a total of 3.5 mils thick (which includes the foil facer and adhesive but does not include the paper release liner). Best of luck with your project.
A: The thickness of the tape is .0045 mm.
A: foil
A: Hi Foil thickness. Like duct tape. This tape is for HVAC air ducts.
A: Yes, .322 is the overall thickness.
A: it is foil thickness.
A: Thank you for your question. The thickness notation for Nashua 322 of 0.127 mm is the thickness of the foil and adhesive combined. This measure does not include the kraft paper release liner which is removed prior to application. Best of luck with your project.
A: Thank you for your question. No, Nashua does not recommend the use of tape on the interior of any duct. Seals should always be made to the exterior of the duct. Best of luck with your project.
A: This tape should be able to withstand the temperatures present inside a forced air heating duct, register, stackhead, or plenum. The question is more, "How big are the holes?" If the holes 1.5 inch or smaller, just taping them should work. If the holes are larger, consider cutting panning (HD SKU 225776) to size, securing it with sheet metal screws (HD SKU 334515), and then taping the seams on the outside of the duct. This will result in a permanent repair, because even the best tape might get tired of spanning a large hole.
A: I used this to cover a rust hole in my bumper and doubled it up. How hot does it get inside? Maybe a double layer?? It is a VERY slight difference in thickness. Compare the 2 and look at the specs.
A: Yes, especially near the register is fine
A: The multi-purpose temperature range is 40 to 200. The premium is -25 to 325. Home heaters often have a safety limit of about 200, but the air is usually about 140 in the system (any hotter and flexible duct damage may occur). I wouldn't have any problem with using that tape. But the inside of the duct can be dirty and the adhesive might not stick well so clean and dry the surface very well.
A: No
A: I don't think so. It's designed to seal HVAC duct joints.
A: I would say almost undoubtable no. This tape is made to handle heat and weather and last for a long time. Definitely not biodegradable as far as I have ever heard.
A: No. , it's a metal polymer.
A: no
A: Um NO. ITS FOIL. LIKE ALUMINUM FOIL.
A: Deflecting heat and UV rays, this multi-purpose tape has an operating temperature range of 40 to 200 degrees Fahrenheit. according to the manufacturer.
A: Doubtful. Even if the metal foil could handle the heat, the mastic would fail. It is designed for "normal" attic temps. I would not expect it to handle 400 degrees.
A: I cannot answer this, you might want to contact the manufacturer directly.
A: According to the product overview, and specifications found elsewhere, its operating temperature is from 40 to 200 degrees Fahrenheit. The rubber adhesive might fail at higher temperatures.
A: No, 200F max
A: The manufactures states weather applications from 40-200 degrees F. I doubt the adhesive used would be able to withstand a 400 degree F temperature.
A: Thank you for your inquiry. Unfortunately, Nashua 322 Multi-Purpose Foil Tape is rated for a max operating temperature of 200F. Best of luck with your project.
A: it could, but being metalic it would transfer the cold or heat and not insulate from it.
A: It might offer a little bit of vapor barrier, but will do nothing for insulation. Foil has to have about an inch of air space in front of it to be able to reflect radiant heat back.
A: The wood may need a coat of some type of adhesive first. The foil tape tends to come off of wood surfaces over time.
A: I think a better option would be duct tape, it is stronger, and more flexible, and will not tear as easy.
A: Thank you for your inquiry. Nashua 322 could be used for the application you've described. Additional options would include Nashua FSK tape available on homedepot.com as well as Nashua 330X foil tape available in stores. Best of luck with your project.
A: If you are talking about the interior side of exterior walls, there should be no moisture problems and this would be totally unnecessary. If you are talking about a shower or bathtub wall covered with cement board and then Red Guard, prior to tile installation, this would just be a wasted expense. If you are talking about firing out an existing exterior basement wall, the studs that are up against an exterior wall, where you might have moisture seeping thru the walls, could possibly benefit from this, as it would decrease the possibility of the studs coming into contact with moisture. Although a better use of your money and time might be spent on adding perimeter drainage.
A: can't hurt. It would give you a more complete vapor barrier to keep the insulation dry and at least stop some air infiltration. I think the benefit would be minor but positive.
A: I do not think you would receive any thermal insulating benefit from applying this tape to the face of your studs behind the drywall. If you're looking for an insulating barrier, a more effective method would be to use a 1/2" thick Styrofoam sheathing panel (4'x8' type sheet) over all the studs and fiberglass batts and then install the drywall panels over that.
A: I generally use this tape for HVAC and dryer vent ductwork. You don't explain what it is that you are trying to accomplish by applying this to wood behind drywall. What's the purpose? If the batts aren't covering the full opening, cutting strips of insulation to fill would be a better choice. Remember though, insulation only works in a non compressed form.
A: I'm not sure I understand the problem you are solving is. Most batts have a tab you can staple unto the studs -- are you trying to make the overlap of those tabs airtight? This tape is sticky and would bind to the kraft paper surface and wood, if that answers your question. Happy insulating
A: Thank you for your question. Yes, Nashua 322 Multi-Purpose foil tape should work well for sealing foam board insulation joints. Best of luck with your project.
A: Yes
A: I would it would work fine but may not be the best. I have used a vinyl tape used to shrink wrap boats. Great stuff but not to common. I think our HVAC guy uses this tap on foam duct insulation. It is definitely a vapor barrier. My question is holding power over time. Good Luck
A: You probably could- it would stick and hold up, but something like Tyvek tape would be better.
A: My only experience is use on ductwork. I used it on the exterior part of our furnace flu (double wall). The outer wall had rusted through and this fix was suggested by my furnace contractor. It is waterproof and very sticky.
A: Maybe. I would seal all cement walls with drylok first
A: It depends on what kind of "moisture" you are trying to address...i.e. "liquid" or "vapor". I am assuming that it would work best on the latter. First off you need to think of your concrete (or block) walls as a huge sponge for moisture (water vapor). Over time and throughout seasonal changes in temperature concrete will “dry” out releasing a tremendous amount of water vapor.One of the best ways to insulate basement walls is by using spray-in-place foam insulation. However, spray foam insulation can be VERY expensive for some projects. That’s why this hybrid insulation you might want to consider by using a combination of rigid foam insulation and fiberglass insulation. The idea for this detail is to install a layer of rigid foam board insulation, carefully seal it to create a vapor barrier adjacent to the concrete, then frame a wall and fill the cavities with fiberglass insulation to come up with an R value that meets the required design. •Install a minimum of 1-1/2 inches of rigid foam insulation board. It’s very important that the insulation be installed from the slab all the way up to the top of the wall including the top surface of the exposed concrete wall. If you use a thinner section of foam board you run the risk of it not performing as an effective vapor barrier. •Carefully seal all the seams in the foam board. You can use a combination of Tyvek Tape, Dow Construction Tape (or similar) and spray foam in a can (Great Stuff for instance). This step is very important in order to create an effective vapor barrier. •Frame a wall directly in front of the foam board. Typically leave an inch gap to allow for air flow around the studs. Be sure to use a pressure treated (PT) bottom plate to prevent decay. You might like to install the PT bottom plate on top of a piece of composite decking material to prevent any wicking of moisture into the framing. •Install fiberglass insulation in the wall cavities to create a final composite R value that meets the energy code requirements. •VAPOR BARRIER – The real question ends up being whether or not to install a vapor barrier over the fiberglass and behind the drywall. Typically we are not in favor of a vapor barrier if you’ve installed at least 1-1/2″ of rigid foam (approx. R9). It is possible if you install a thinner layer of foam that the surface of the foam could be cool enough to promote condensation if water vapor moves from the conditioned room and hits the surface of the foam board. For that reason we recommend a vapor barrier if you’ve used less than the 1-1/2″ of foam.
A: This should make a good seal for your application. It has very good adhesion and works well in damp locations.
A: The tape is solid aluminum so moisture is not getting through, unless the adhesive fails to bond. In your situation. Is there a concern the moisture will accumulate behind the tape? I know I had moisture accumulate inside a plenum using this tape, but that was because the air was very humid when conditioned, not the fault of the tape. Not sure this answers your question but may help.
A: Yes I believe it would be just fine in that application
A: Yes it works well
A: too Hot
A: It would probably work, however, if the crack gets bigger, I would think you'd have to get a new dryer at some point. It might be able to prolong the life of your dryer.
A: Maybe for a month or so but it would eventually fail
A: No, It's too hot !
A: Thank you for your question. Unfortunately, Nashua Multi-Purpose Foil Tape is not designed to withstand the sustained high temperatures it would be under in the application you've described and would likely fall off over time.
current item | |||
Features | |||
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Peel Back Design | Peel Back Design, Waterproof | Moisture Resistant, Solvent Resistant | Moisture Resistant |
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Aluminum | Aluminum | Cloth | Cloth |
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