I'm giving the Markum Oak Allure 5 stars with the following caveats, that I hope are helpful. I'm not a professional, but this is the second time I've installed the Allure Ultra. They advertise the “easiest floor ever”, but that doesn't mean the easiest thing you'll ever do. You will still be doing labor. The boxes weigh about 40 lbs a piece, so if you are carrying them up or down stairs, you do the math...it's a workout! You'll want knee pads or some kind of cushioning...I used old carpet pad, which works for palms and elbows too.
You can not have too many extra blades for your razor knife!
The biggest part of the the “easiest floor” is because you don't need a power saw(or hand saw) to make cuts. Simply score the printed side of the planks with your razor knife, bend them back, and then snap them off by bending in the other direction. It's a lot easier than it sounds. When your blade gets dull, as it does fairly quickly though, not so much. Yes, this is still much easier than having a saw set up to do needed cuts.
“Slide and click” is more like nudge and thud.
If you have a perfectly smooth floor, maybe “slide and click” would be a reality, but the only pieces that went in that easy for me, were the first planks of each row. You will want to have a special tool that consists of a small piece of the plank(don't worry, you'll have this with the first mistake made) that has the mating edge still on it. Then, you can tap planks in with out boogering up the locking edges. I found a piece 1x 3 inches worked well, with a hammer or rubber mallet. It's too bad that the sample pieces at the store are cut clean of the locking edges, or you could use one of those for starters.
You can never check the seams too often!
There should be not the smallest gap, and they will look pretty close sometimes and fool you. This goes back to not having a perfectly smooth floor. The seams will pop out, sometimes just a little, as you nudge the other side in, or someone walks on the the unfinished row, or there's a meteor strike, etc. This goes for the small seams that run perpendicular along the row also.
(By the way, if you have a perfectly smooth floor, you should just paint it, charge admission, and retire off of the proceeds.)
Cutting around doorways is not easy, but there's a trick I learned that works sometimes...
If there is not intricate molding on “both” sides of your row, and there's a big enough gap at the floor, you can do a sloppier cut. Just work the plank into the groove, then with one of those a small pieces of mating plank you have by now, tap the plank sideways until it slips underneath the door molding. This works easiest with the first plank of the row, but you can switch from working left to right or right to left on a row when need be.
You will never say, “I wish I hadn't spent so much time making the floor smooth.”
On the first installation I pushed the limits of un-smooth floor, because I didn't want to rent a grinder, and fill the house with concrete dust. It took a little cussing, but I was still able to do an acceptable job, by taking care to make sure the seams were as tight as they could be, and accepting a little imperfection.
The floor will get scratched with heavy and rough enough furniture. I would suggest getting felt tabs to go under the legs of these. The good news is that we found a set of 3 brown markers, and one of the shades did a great job of hiding the few scratches we made.
One last thing I found was that even after laying 4 or 5 rows, it was possible to move the entire floor a little to get it in square. After one or two rounds, walking on it can move it more than you think, so I did adjust after 5 rows to get back to square. I used quarter round to hide small bad cuts/cracks at the wall and it looks great.
Hope these notes help!
Feels Like Wood, Looks Like Wood, Looks Great