Customer Reviews for Loctite PL 300 10 fl. oz. Foamboard Adhesive

I just completed insulating my 27' X 14" hip ceiling with the 2" Pink insulation board. I'm doing a ventless roof/ceiling so closed-cell was the only option. This adhesive worked GREAT! Yeah, some times it'll come out a little runny for a second but I wouldn't let that bother you. The whole tube won't be like that. MAKE SURE you put this on heavy. If you try and go cheap with this product it renders useless on a ceiling. My spacing was 24" by up to 14' runs. I'd use 1/2 to 3/4 of a tube on every run like that and this stuff held like a champ! I still had to use some 1X to keep it pushed up against the ceilings until it dried but once it did it was a rock! I'd use it again and I highly recommend it! That's coming from a retired house carpenter!

I used this to glue a piece of insulation to an attic door. Realizing it probably wouldn’t stay in place while it dried, I took the door off its hinges and used weights to assist in the process. I wouldn’t trust it to stay on anything vertical while drying - not without something holding it in place. The fumes from this adhesive have a very strong smell.

I used about 24 tubes of this on one project, so I'll share my experiences...First, it's a latex adhesive, not a classic liquid nails construction adhesive. If you have to apply thick, which I did in order to adhere to an uneven brick wall, then you can bet on a 5-7 day cure time. You need to brace it well during this period - it has very little grabbing power when wet. Once it dried, it worked quite well, but not everyone has a week, nor the inclination to brace a room full of panels, so buyer beware. Once dry, it has superior adhesion to the liquid nails panel product.

I have used about 3 dozen+ tubes to attach eighty 2" x 2' x 8' foam board panels to the cement basement walls. Wall preparation was important to get excess dust off the walls before gluing. I also laid a bead of caulk between each panel to make them water/air tight. Follow up with Great Stuff to fill any small gaps, and Tyvek tape to double seal all seems. The end result is something Mike Holmes would be proud of. It takes 24 hours to firm up before you should remove braces holding it flush to the target surface. I used expanding clamps in a number of areas when the wall was parallel with the ceiling rafters. When it is perpendicular, using a pile of boards at the bottom, and leaning boards up higher works really well. Clamps the tops too so they stay flush from top to bottom. Wood for leaning on the foam...pressure treated is heavier and gives a better hold... Foamboard insulation is awesome and this is the perfect product to get it installed without holes from nail/screw anchors. I laid it down pretty thick, and only got about 1 tube for 2.5 panels. Used the Milwaukee Caulk Gun to apply it quickly and evenly. Older tubes that sat on the shelves at Home Depot might get soupy inside (just the first ounce or two). If they are piled up high with dust and all beat up, pass on that tube and go for a new looking one.

I bought a dozen tubes of this stuff for a renovation project I'm working on .... Used it to glue foamboard to cement. I noticed that many of the tubes had liquid in them, which was very unusual for caulk gun application type of product... but i needed to get going with the project and opened a tube that didn't exhibit the liquid in the tube sound. The first tube was good there was a small spurt of liquid while i was applying to the foamboard. The second had a bit more liquid but was managable. The third tube had even more liquid and was close to usuable! In fact i used the tube but got aboutbhalf the bead length advertized by Loctite $

FWIW, this is the first time I have used the adhesive or the rigid foam insulation sheets so I read the reviews and followed the instructions for both products. In the process of finishing a basement with poured concrete walls, I opted for the additional insulation rather than regret it later. The walls are reasonably smooth and very dry so the only prep needed for the concrete wall was to descale the most ragged parts and blow off any dust. One review I read (another web site?) commented that he applied approximately 10 oz. one tube per 4’x8’ sheet and I found that to be fairly accurate. At $3.58 a tube why skimp? The only exception I noticed was that more adhesive was needed on the one portion of the cement wall that contained more ridges and indentations. When the insulation sheet is pressed against the wall the adhesive doesn’t spread as much so you have “dry” spots. As noted in other reviews, this adhesive isn’t extremely tacky so an adequate coating is necessary along with a temporary brace until the adhesive sets up a bit. In summary, prep well, use enough adhesive, brace the sheet and be patient enough to allow the adhesive to act. Do it right, do it once.

Rating provided by a verified purchaser

This is THE product to use for adhering rigid foam board to a concrete substrate - as when insulating foundation walls. Flows well, good coverage, and becomes surprisingly-adherent quickly. Highly recommended; we spec it on all our projects for foundation work.

Open the tube and liquid squirts out. Push the liquid out and the adhesive just keeps flowing, even after gun pressure is released. It just keeps oozing out. I'll just use the regular power grab next time. It says it's safe for foam board.

Rating provided by a verified purchaser