Customer Reviews for Peak Aluminum Railing White Aluminum Deck Railing Wall Mount Bracket Kit

A great product. If you are comfortable with basic tools and understand how to put posts in then this is a very easy product to use and makes a great railing.

very high quality product. Easy to assemble and extremely sturdy. I bought several sections and there were no missing pieces. I am using this on a floating party barge and I needed something that is strong enough, easy to clean, and unlikely to have chips in the paint. I have four sections, one at each corner of the barge that are six feet and three feet connected at right angles. To make the 3 footer, I just sawed the 6 foot section in half and it worked perfectly.

We purchased the rail and posts at the store and had to order the glass panels online. They came well packaged and promptly. We rented a hammer drill to put the post into concrete. The system went together easily and looks great.

Product arrived quickly and undamaged. Although it was specifically made for a deck, we adapted and used it for concrete. Had to pick up concrete, stacons, and threaded rod to make what we needed but is a great railing for $150. Since the grandbaby came along there has been a fear of her falling down the steps and now that is no more.

I have used Clear View in the past it is a custom made to order product that still needs some cuts in the field. I have a elderly customer that needed a rail ASAP so I looked to Home Depot. I am a General contractor so quality does count. This is a modular system so the rails come in 6' or 42" sections with all the upper and lower rail holders already attached to the posts. The system is very easy for a DIY to do if you feel like you want to do it. The instruction are easy to follow and well written. The customer wanted the wider pickets which I must say actually look better than the thinner ones now that I have seen them. If you choose not to put the post base cap on it does not look bad as I show in the pic but I think the cap cleans up the bolt look very well. When using your drill driver I would also recommend a 6" bit and an extension for you nut driver to keep the head of the driver away from the post and not scare it. Though I do not know if they offer a touch up paint it would be nice as no matter how good you are the driver does mar the screws and bolts slightly and a little paint on these would just add more icing to the cake. I had it shipped as we live on the Oregon Coast it came 4 days ahead of when it was scheduled. Packaging was good could have used a little padding between the posts but they were not damaged, must have been a good bunch drivers bring it over. It works out to be around $55.00 a linear foot for the product I used here. I will use this more in the future and would recommend it to others as a good product.

Replaced entire wood deck railing and stair railing with Peak Aluminum railing. I only used the fascia mount for the staircase to allow for a wider stair. All of their products were easy to install, though it did take some time to get it all done. I love it! I will never have to paint the rail again, YAY! It looks so nice.

Higher quality than i expected. Stair rails take some time to install,need watch vidio.Very solid well made product.

Used as inexpensive alternative to stainless steel railing on boat. Holds up well to salt water provided you keep it washed off with fresh water. Excellent quality welded product. Loose one star because base screws provided were stainless steel, others were only plated steel.

I just finished installing approximately 68 feet of railing/fencing. The system is easy to install. Just make sure to make careful measurements to avoid mistakes and wasted material. I would greatly recommend this to anybody thinking about doing fencing or railing. Next project for me is to have landscaping done or do it myself if I have the motivation or time! My only recommendation is for the company is to make clip-on spacers so customers have an option. I noticed that the slide-in spacers make noise when you jiggle the system because they are loose. I do not know if that will happen in strong winds. Overall, I still rate the system high for its appearance and sturdiness. Much appreciation to Mr. Jasse Parmar, of the Peak Aluminum's International Logistics and Customer Service Department for prompt help to obtain additional spacers after finding out that they could not be special ordered from any Home Depot here in the United States. Only in Canada. That info was not specifically detailed in the company's website or Home Depot's website.

Ordered 8 on line. Due to miss measuring, returned one that we didn't use. The store didn't bat an eye about returning an online purchase. The mounting brackets look good and feel sturdy over a 46' straight line run.

Bought the rails, posts, pickets, etc. for a 18x36 foot deck and two stairs. Everything arrived in good condition. The railing system for the deck went fast and easy, but the stairs took us a lot longer. I'm very pleased with the way it turned out. Would highly recommend this product.

11/21/16 Just finished installing about 46' of Peak rails with the Peak LED light kit. We were working with a front deck that is 60+ years old so it took 2 full days to install with the fascia mount brackets. The pros: Looks great Feels sturdy and should last another 60 years straight forward installation where the instructions apply The cons: Tinted glass kits include spacers and support brackets in black and white but black only for the glass channels Some spacers were 3 1/2" long instead or 4" and caused re-doing to make sure the rail system was plumb. LED light channels that we pre-installed had to be cut down 3/4 inch to fit between the 6' rail system. Peak lighting app stops working but eventually does get it done. Over all the deck rails look great and we love the light show. I would suggest a 4" glass panel to replace a spacer and an option to connect speakers to play music via wifi or blu-tooth from a phone or in house sound system.

I purchased the rail and glass system for the front of my porch, with rails and balusters for the sides. I ordered it all from home, in Massachusetts, and had it delivered to the Home Depot store close to my cottage in Maine. I found the order a perfect match to my records when I picked it up in Maine. It was a full two day project for my daughter and I to do the installation. In fact, we ran out of time and have not installed the rails and balusters on both sides of the front stairs. We agreed that the finished product was above our expectations. The rails and glass panels, and balusters, are neat, solid, well made, and sturdy. A great do it yourself project. rob king ps attached are pictures of the installation.

This gate is a nice touch for our new deck. I chose to install the black aluminum gate instead of a cedar gate because I thought it looked nicer. I knew when I bought it that it would be taller than my railing, but it still looks good. I had to put in a ½” spacer along the support of my stairs to make the hinge come out far enough that the gate wouldn’t interfere with the railing. Other than that, cutting to fit and installation was a breeze. It looks great, and I love that it swings either way on the hinge. This was a must for me because I installed it at the top of the stairs. I also like that the spring release for the gate is on top making it easy to open going up or down the stairs. Several of the gates I looked at latched on the side, so depending on the way it was mounted, you’d have to lean over the gate to hit the release to open it. This gate did cost more than I would have liked, but for me was worth the extra money for the convenience and style.

I had a chain link fence in the back yard and it was time for a change. The chain link fence and post were a little work to remove. But a couple of pliers and a 14 dollar angle grinder from H/Freight and it was gone. The installation was time consuming but easy. You will need to buy some concrete anchors to hold the posts in place if it going on cement, some galvanized fender washers if the cement is not level, a level to make sure it's all straight, and a hammer drill and bit to make holes in the cement. Of course, pliers and a socket set to sinch it all down. The paint on the aluminum has held up great over the year and still looks new despite living a half mile from the ocean. If I had to nitpick, the fence should be about 10 inches taller but otherwise, good materials, holds up to the outdoors, easy install, a looks better than chain link.

After completing part of my two area railing project I am very happy with the way they look and that they seem to be solid as a rock. That having been said, I will say that making railings less than conventional full length was very difficult determining all the cuts that I had to make. I had bought 6' railing system pieces and my idea is to use it in two different locations @ my home. The first one ended up as a 22" railing & the second is yet to be determined. It also tells you that you can make the cuts with a hacksaw and that is as far from the truth as possible. I ended up buying a special aluminum cutting blade for my compound miter saw and that made the project 1000% better. In spite of the difficulty I had in the installation we( my wife & I) are very happy with the product we chose. I believe it is very good quality and look forward to having my total project completed.

I decided to install the Peak Aluminum railing for a couple of reasons. 1. In the Pacific Northwest it won’t rust or rot as fast as wood or metal. 2. This system is modular, so replacing individual pickets is easier than replacing an entire section of fixed railing. Components I used in the installation include the 4 foot rails, 6 foot rails, 6 foot stair rails, 6 foot stair pickets, 6 foot standard pickets, Stair Posts, End Posts, Corner Posts, Mid Posts, Wall Brackets, Stair Brackets, Universal Brackets, Walk Through Gate, and Decorative Spacers. Installation was fast and easy for the most part. I started at a corner, and worked my around the deck. On the runs that attached to a wall, I used a Mid or End Post to mark the location of the wall Mount Brackets. Where I had a short section, I placed it near the wall, or near a gate to give the gate a little more stability. I installed a couple of 6 foot rails on one run, and decided to redo it with 4 foot rails. Most of the runs were such that 4 foot rails were easier, and I replaced the 6 foot rails for uniformity. Stair Posts, End Posts, Mid Posts, and Corner Posts were easy to work with, and the feel secure when installed. Stairs are a little tricky and difficult. Installing a 3 foot section of stair railing takes as long as installing 30-40 feet of standard railing. The stair raining will take about an hour and a half each rail. There are no instructions giving you advice on how to measure or cut the railing. I used scrap pieces of Bottom Railing as spacers, and everything worked out with a 42 inch measurement from the stair to the top of the Stair Rail. It will take a bit to measure and cut the spacers for the stair railing. Don’t get frustrated if it takes a couple of times to get the first one right. After that the rest of the stair rails are easier. They will all take about an hour and a half. Follow the directions for the Walk Through Gate. I used scrap top rail pieces to rest the gate on when installing it, and that provided enough lift to get the top rail of the gate to match the top rail of the fence rail.

I decided to install the Peak Aluminum railing for a couple of reasons. 1. In the Pacific Northwest it won’t rust or rot as fast as wood or metal. 2. This system is modular, so replacing individual pickets is easier than replacing an entire section of fixed railing. Components I used in the installation include the 4 foot rails, 6 foot rails, 6 foot stair rails, 6 foot stair pickets, 6 foot standard pickets, Stair Posts, End Posts, Corner Posts, Mid Posts, Wall Brackets, Stair Brackets, Universal Brackets, Walk Through Gate, and Decorative Spacers. Installation was fast and easy for the most part. I started at a corner, and worked my around the deck. On the runs that attached to a wall, I used a Mid or End Post to mark the location of the wall Mount Brackets. Where I had a short section, I placed it near the wall, or near a gate to give the gate a little more stability. I installed a couple of 6 foot rails on one run, and decided to redo it with 4 foot rails. Most of the runs were such that 4 foot rails were easier, and I replaced the 6 foot rails for uniformity. Stair Posts, End Posts, Mid Posts, and Corner Posts were easy to work with, and the feel secure when installed. Stairs are a little tricky and difficult. Installing a 3 foot section of stair railing takes as long as installing 30-40 feet of standard railing. The stair raining will take about an hour and a half each rail. There are no instructions giving you advice on how to measure or cut the railing. I used scrap pieces of Bottom Railing as spacers, and everything worked out with a 42 inch measurement from the stair to the top of the Stair Rail. It will take a bit to measure and cut the spacers for the stair railing. Don’t get frustrated if it takes a couple of times to get the first one right. After that the rest of the stair rails are easier. They will all take about an hour and a half. Follow the directions for the Walk Through Gate. I used scrap top rail pieces to rest the gate on when installing it, and that provided enough lift to get the top rail of the gate to match the top rail of the fence rail.

I decided to install the Peak Aluminum railing for a couple of reasons. 1. In the Pacific Northwest it won’t rust or rot as fast as wood or metal. 2. This system is modular, so replacing individual pickets is easier than replacing an entire section of fixed railing. Components I used in the installation include the 4 foot rails, 6 foot rails, 6 foot stair rails, 6 foot stair pickets, 6 foot standard pickets, Stair Posts, End Posts, Corner Posts, Mid Posts, Wall Brackets, Stair Brackets, Universal Brackets, Walk Through Gate, and Decorative Spacers. Installation was fast and easy for the most part. I started at a corner, and worked my around the deck. On the runs that attached to a wall, I used a Mid or End Post to mark the location of the wall Mount Brackets. Where I had a short section, I placed it near the wall, or near a gate to give the gate a little more stability. I installed a couple of 6 foot rails on one run, and decided to redo it with 4 foot rails. Most of the runs were such that 4 foot rails were easier, and I replaced the 6 foot rails for uniformity. Stair Posts, End Posts, Mid Posts, and Corner Posts were easy to work with, and the feel secure when installed. Stairs are a little tricky and difficult. Installing a 3 foot section of stair railing takes as long as installing 30-40 feet of standard railing. The stair raining will take about an hour and a half each rail. There are no instructions giving you advice on how to measure or cut the railing. I used scrap pieces of Bottom Railing as spacers, and everything worked out with a 42 inch measurement from the stair to the top of the Stair Rail. It will take a bit to measure and cut the spacers for the stair railing. Don’t get frustrated if it takes a couple of times to get the first one right. After that the rest of the stair rails are easier. They will all take about an hour and a half. Follow the directions for the Walk Through Gate. I used scrap top rail pieces to rest the gate on when installing it, and that provided enough lift to get the top rail of the gate to match the top rail of the fence rail.

I decided to install the Peak Aluminum railing for a couple of reasons. 1. In the Pacific Northwest it won’t rust or rot as fast as wood or metal. 2. This system is modular, so replacing individual pickets is easier than replacing an entire section of fixed railing. Components I used in the installation include the 4 foot rails, 6 foot rails, 6 foot stair rails, 6 foot stair pickets, 6 foot standard pickets, Stair Posts, End Posts, Corner Posts, Mid Posts, Wall Brackets, Stair Brackets, Universal Brackets, Walk Through Gate, and Decorative Spacers. Installation was fast and easy for the most part. I started at a corner, and worked my around the deck. On the runs that attached to a wall, I used a Mid or End Post to mark the location of the wall Mount Brackets. Where I had a short section, I placed it near the wall, or near a gate to give the gate a little more stability. I installed a couple of 6 foot rails on one run, and decided to redo it with 4 foot rails. Most of the runs were such that 4 foot rails were easier, and I replaced the 6 foot rails for uniformity. Stair Posts, End Posts, Mid Posts, and Corner Posts were easy to work with, and the feel secure when installed. Stairs are a little tricky and difficult. Installing a 3 foot section of stair railing takes as long as installing 30-40 feet of standard railing. The stair raining will take about an hour and a half each rail. There are no instructions giving you advice on how to measure or cut the railing. I used scrap pieces of Bottom Railing as spacers, and everything worked out with a 42 inch measurement from the stair to the top of the Stair Rail. It will take a bit to measure and cut the spacers for the stair railing. Don’t get frustrated if it takes a couple of times to get the first one right. After that the rest of the stair rails are easier. They will all take about an hour and a half. Follow the directions for the Walk Through Gate. I used scrap top rail pieces to rest the gate on when installing it, and that provided enough lift to get the top rail of the gate to match the top rail of the fence rail.

I decided to install the Peak Aluminum railing for a couple of reasons. 1. In the Pacific Northwest it won’t rust or rot as fast as wood or metal. 2. This system is modular, so replacing individual pickets is easier than replacing an entire section of fixed railing. Components I used in the installation include the 4 foot rails, 6 foot rails, 6 foot stair rails, 6 foot stair pickets, 6 foot standard pickets, Stair Posts, End Posts, Corner Posts, Mid Posts, Wall Brackets, Stair Brackets, Universal Brackets, Walk Through Gate, and Decorative Spacers. Installation was fast and easy for the most part. I started at a corner, and worked my around the deck. On the runs that attached to a wall, I used a Mid or End Post to mark the location of the wall Mount Brackets. Where I had a short section, I placed it near the wall, or near a gate to give the gate a little more stability. I installed a couple of 6 foot rails on one run, and decided to redo it with 4 foot rails. Most of the runs were such that 4 foot rails were easier, and I replaced the 6 foot rails for uniformity. Stair Posts, End Posts, Mid Posts, and Corner Posts were easy to work with, and the feel secure when installed. Stairs are a little tricky and difficult. Installing a 3 foot section of stair railing takes as long as installing 30-40 feet of standard railing. The stair raining will take about an hour and a half each rail. There are no instructions giving you advice on how to measure or cut the railing. I used scrap pieces of Bottom Railing as spacers, and everything worked out with a 42 inch measurement from the stair to the top of the Stair Rail. It will take a bit to measure and cut the spacers for the stair railing. Don’t get frustrated if it takes a couple of times to get the first one right. After that the rest of the stair rails are easier. They will all take about an hour and a half. Follow the directions for the Walk Through Gate. I used scrap top rail pieces to rest the gate on when installing it, and that provided enough lift to get the top rail of the gate to match the top rail of the fence rail. I used the leftover trex to build a Garden Bridge to hide the Septic access covers, and added the Peak Railing to finish it off.

These are nice additions to the Peak Railing adding a decorative touch to what would be an otherwise ordinary look. If you're going to use these between every picket, it's going to get expensive. I opted to insert these between every other picket. There are some drawbacks, but it's with the system itself. When using the 4 , or 6 foot rails, the spacers are not designed to fit without cutting the end spacers. When installing these you need to have an odd number of full 4 inch spacers to compliment use of these every other picket. If you're installing these between every picket this is not a consideration. Inserting these between every other picket gives the railing a nice appearance.

I used Peak Railing around the front deck, side deck, and back deck.I wanted to hide the septic access covers that are next to the house. I used the scrap Trex Decking, and decided to add railing. These universal connectors are not pre-drilled, so there wouldn't be any extra holes exposed when installed. Normally they are designed to be used for horizontal angles other than 90 degrees. There are pre-marked indents for horizontal and/or vertical holes. I used a drill press to ensure the holes were aligned. Installing them at an incline is much like installing the stair railing. Time consuming. It took about an hour and a half to get the right spacer length at the beginning and end of the railing.

The finished product looks professional, and it should be very low maintenance with no rust problems or the usual problems with wood. The railings were a lot easier than the stair railing though. One suggestion for the manufacturer would be to expand the stair rail instructions. It wasn't really clear when the attachments should be installed. Try copying Ikea. Another suggestion for the manufacturer would be to build better boxes for the stair rails. Three boxes at Home Depot were broken at the top and missing hardware, including the one I bought and had to bring back.

Nice design and easy to install. The whole rail system is well designed and my finished product has gotten a lot of compliments.

This deck railing system was very easy to work with and assemble. All of the aluminum pieces were protected with a clear film to prevent any marring or scratching during installation. The glass panels were packaged extremely well. We used both the 6" and 66" glass panels. The 6" came with a different style insert system which was slick as can be. The 66" panels push up into a top hard plastic gasket then into the bottom one which was a bit trickier to achieve but once we got the first one in and figured it out, the others went very well. We are project driven grandparents of 7 and installed 8 - 66" and 5 - 6" sections in one day. We have received many compliments on the final look.

I highly recommend the Peak Railing system. We purchased the Peak Aluminum Railing System with the 66" glass panels for install on our completed deck. The aluminum posts and rails are very sturdy and have an excellent fit and finish. The tempered glass panels look great and are relatively easy to install in the frames. I recommend that you purchase some glass installing suction cup devices in order to safely handle and install the glass sections. We found them to be extremely helpful when installing the larger glass panels. Of particular note, the Peak Sales Representative, Darin Asbjornsen, provided excellent customer service. He reviewed our deck plan and took the time to provide a detailed drawing along with a complete parts list, which allowed us to walk into Home Depot and purchase everything we needed without having to worry that we might forget or miss a particular piece. We just installed the product this past weekend and it looks great!

I just finished putting this in and the results look great however installation was a nightmare. First off I've done lots of home repair and I would rate my knowledge and skill high above average. I choose this because it's aluminum and I feel the plastic ones feel cheap. It's extremely sturdy and the finish is great however stain installation was very challenging. I only installed a stair railing off my patio door back steps since we are having a party and i don't want someone to go over and get injured. The brackets mount easily however i don't like that the screws for the brackets are not self tapping and the screws for the bottom and top rail are self tapping. I predrilled the holes and the instructions said and had a hard time getting them in. The system to put in the pickets is horrible...besides being very difficult to mount the upper rail bracket, the pickets fit in so tightly that it's easy to knock them out and everything will instantly fall apart and get scratched...this happened to me multiple times. If you had two people it would be easier but just the picket system is subpar. I saw a competitors product(much more expensive) that all the pickets were mounted and you held the railing up to cut at the proper length and angles(i would go with that system next time. The pickets swung and of course it was more complicated but I really had such a horrible time with these that I wouldn't do it again. Also when installing it you need to leave a lot of screws loose to slide pieces in and out...well when you do that inevitably you will knock everything apart multiple times. I suggest watching the manufacturers installation video online...if you watch the stairs video the guy seems to be struggling because he is. I watched the video multiple times before I started just to get a good grip on the project and thought it was amateurish and unprofessional...it's not the guy does a good just it's just with all the loos screws, and pickets it's a heck of a challenge to do with one person. Needs to have matching touch up paint next to them since you will scratch them up and scratch the screw heads up during installation. I ended up using white appliance touch up paint. But a metal blade for your compound miter saw. I ended up using my bandsaw with a metal blade and doing it by hand with a hacksaw would be horrible, especially if you are installing multiple runs.

Using just the screw to connect to post, the handrail was lose and rattle every time you touched it. I put small stainless steel lock washers on the screw-head side of the gap and it made the connection solid with no play.

I installed on concrete and used Tapcon+ 5/16". Had to be very precise with hole placement and made sure drill was plumb. Not much room for error with 5/16 Tapcon+'s but very strong installation. I've used 5/16" wooden dowels to make sure things stayed in place while drilling and screwing. Consult local building codes/engineer for proper fasteners.