The instructions say to let the epoxy sit for either 30 or 60 minutes after being mixed depending on the ambient temperature. DON'T DO THAT. I followed their instructions precisely, and according to the chart I was supposed to let the mixed epoxy sit for 60 minutes before installing it because I was working in the lower temperature range (it was a basement installation, ambient temp was 67 degrees F).
60 minutes was far, far too long to let the mixed epoxy rest. I should have applied it immediately after mixing. By the time the prescribed 60 minutes had passed, the product had already started to solidify. As a result, it left a HORRIBLE finish when applied to the floor. It was very thick and sticky, it would not self-level at all. There were drips and marks from the roller as well as bubbles absolutely everywhere.
There are no color chips in my photos because the original plan had been to apply a clear epoxy over the top of the grey for a deep luster and apply the color chips then. Instead, I will be returning my un-used product to the store, grinding this ruinous crap off of my floor, and laying tile with epoxy grout instead.
What a disaster. Complete waste of time and money.
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Response from Rust-OleumSupportAugust 10, 2020
Thank you for reaching out regarding your experience with the Rust-Oleum Epoxyshield Garage Floor Coating. Please keep in mind that very important to allow the product to sit and induct/activate as instructed in the literature of the product. Failure to do so will result in a floor that will stay tacky and not dry properly in the beginning of the application. Also, if the product is setting up that quickly, that would be indicative of your temperatures being warmer than outlined, or if you happened to mix more than one kit together as multiple activators in one kit can cause it to set up too quickly. Let's talk further. Please consider reaching us at (888) 683-5667 - Rust-Oleum Product Support 1
Product works and looks good. Buy more than you think you will need. It sets up fairly fast. Even though the whole floor looked good once we rolled it on, there are thin spots that showed up after it dried. If doing a large floor, over 2 kits, I would recommend to have a couple extra guys to help spread it out on the floor and to mix all kits at the same time. I also think that using a squeegee to spread it on the floor would work better than a roller. I just poured some on the epoxy on the floor to speed up the process. All in all it is a good product and I am happy with the results. The imperfections I see others don't really notice.
Installed on plywood review:
I wanted a easy, light weight floor for my garage attic woodshop (scroll saw shop) that is only 6'-4' tall and I am 6'-1" tall.
It is 11'x30' with 3/4" plywood tongue and groove subfloor that had been painted with indoor latex paint and primer in one within the last 5-6 months. It wasn't a semi nor gloss, but I can't remember which I actually used, but 1 gal was used at that time( first "rule broken"). The flooring was originally only air nailed on construction, but I screwed it down 16" on center with 2" screws to remove and flex(or as much as possible). Then seams and screw holes filled with gorilla adhesive and sanded after 2 days of curing with a 120 grit finish (matched the surface texture better, but second rule broken?).
Applied one coat epoxy gray, then one coat clear top coat.
Area- 330 sq ft
Surface- semi textured "sealed" by paint and primer subfloor
Temp out side - 20 below F indoor 75*-80* epoxy temp was 63* at 75* room temp for 2 days. So I let it set for the full hour.
Base coat- 1 coat dark gray epoxy shield professional(2 one gal paint cans). Opened door and window for 5 min every 4 hours to exchange the air. 2 days cure, which smoothed out nicely, but dried more of a "dry" than I wanted possibly from air temp shock on adhesive ( 3rd rule broken). But my weather station sensor showed increase in humidity, so exchanged the air to 20-25% humidity in those 5 min. I split the 2 gal kit in half, first half doing 11x16' at first. It was not a stretch but I had just enough with a nice 3/8 nap roller.
Top coat- epoxy shield professional clear 2 days cure, with 1/4" nap roller because didn't NOT want to buy 2 clear kits.
WHY THEY USE A BAG IS FOOLISH!
OK, having to half of my area then cure and move things to finish the other half, the bag is taped back shut for a week until the other half is being finished, but seriously what are they thinking? Because of this alone, I would not recommend this clear coat, and if your base epoxy comes in bags, just use a 5 gal bucket. Secondly, I mixed aircraft adhesives almost daily for over 10 years, so with a wire stir stick on my drill, part A&B parts were measured out 5:3. Mixing half the kit for 1 minute and then let set 5 minutes. Then remixed again for 1 minute, and applied with surface and air temp 75* 30% humidity (20 below outside in winter). There was still a few spots that did not mix 2 half dollar size. So having said this, I would have no idea how one would make sure things were mixed using their stupid bag idea if a full kit was being used and dumped into a paint tray. Not helping anyone out here, we are still using a bucket Rustoleum!
The gummy spots I just put extra sand down, not a big deal, but was pretty surprised because the area where the soft spots were, are half way throughout the application area.
I had only hand spread sand in the first 4'x4' entry area by the door, not mixing it into the full batch(4th rule broken?)I then worked down the center of my floor(walk area)and the rest of the area worked itself clear with no sand after 4 more feet.
Like every other customers have said, HOW they give such large coverage numbers are beyond me! If doing a shop floor, I would not stretch it at all, I would assume the lower number coverage, then hope for the best hitting halfway between third numbers. But would install 2 thin coats vs 1 thicker coat.
Coverage= aim for lower sq ft coverage.
One 2 gal kit gray kit barely covered 330 sq ft of previously painted PLYWOOD SUBFLOOR flooring.
1 clear kit applied seriously barely covered 330 sq ft.
Granted I know they say only concrete, yet for my use, I wanted a better surface, more light reflecting, and light weight and also not using any of my floor to ceiling height. And having worked on epoxy shop floors, you can't really compare their durability.
The finished floor came out well. Worth the time, and I am OK if some seams or screw heads pop. It is a smooth floor now, much easier to sweep and things are easily seen if dropped( no color flakes were used). For $225 it covered 330 sq ft. and will be very durable compare to vinyls or cheap laminate these days. And not having 500-700 pounds is also a nice plus, only 30# give or take for the 2.75 gal of product.
I will not monitor for questions asked/ nor update the review, unless there are major things that happen which would only be my fault for the substrate that it was applied too and be of help for someone else wishing to apply to a small shop area with tongue and groove subfloor substrate. I don't see any reason why this would not be useful inside a cargo trailer. All the anti slip would be used for that otherwise you would be regretting it.
The lower garage area is heated to 45-50* in the winter, with the upstairs being brought up to room temperature as I work. Otherwise the upstairs will be 45-50* ,so I don't think the floor will have too much temperature shock, being the bottom of plywood being 20* cooler than the topside.
I bought this product (the 2-Pack) which contained 2 kits. Each kit was advertised to cover 300-400 square feet of bare concrete floor. I had approximately 750 total square feet to cover. The result was not as expected. The floor was semi-gloss in areas, but dull and thin in other areas. Two adult males were applying the product with 3/8 inch rollers over a floor which had been pressure washed and acid etched as instructed. Other helpers were sprinkling color flecks. It was very clean! We applied it well within the pot life. It took us about an hour and half to do both kits. The only issue that I can see that may have prevented proper coverage is the heat. It was a very warm afternoon in south Alabama with humidity hovering near 80-85%. I asked Home Depot in the "Questions" section of the product page and was told I "stretched" the product too far. My advice to anyone considering using this is to make sure you are trying to cover the lower amount of possible coverage and roll the stuff on THICK. Otherwise you will have splotchy coverage like mine.
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Response from Rust-OleumSupportAugust 28, 2018
Thank you for sharing your experience. Please keep in mind that a variance in surface porosity can affect the coverage of the Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield Professional Garage Floor Coating. We'd like to hear more about your application and try to help make things right. Please reach out to our Product Support team at (866) 765-4474. - Rust-Oleum Product Support 4
Bought 2 of these kits to cover a 3 car garage cost of $420. Followed directions perfectly for p...
August 23, 2018
Bought 2 of these kits to cover a 3 car garage cost of $420. Followed directions perfectly for prep and application. Was guaranteed not to come off. Did not park a car on it for 10 days. The eleventh day 2 of the 3 stalls came off on the cars' tires, see picture. The paint dried in uneven shades. Not recommended and now faced with a repair job.
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Response from Rust-OleumSupportAugust 24, 2018
That is certainly odd, Phil! Please keep in mind that if applying Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield Professional Garage Floor Coating to a previously coated surface, it is essential to scuff sand the entire surface. We recommend using 60-80 grit sandpaper to degloss the surface. Any loose or peeling paint must also be removed. We hope you will give us a chance to try to make things right with you. Please give us a call at 888-683-5667 to talk with us. - Rust-Oleum Product Support 3
This project went very well! First I used Zap Citrus degreaser cleaner scrubbed and rinsed, then I rented a concrete grinder to remove what remained of old porch/garage paint and to score the concrete completely. Following the grinding I acid etched the concrete per acid mfr’s directions. Allowed the floor to dry, then shop vac’d entire area thoroughly. Waited until the next day to apply epoxy to insure that the floor was completely dry. Edged perimeter with small 3/8” roller and brush. I then used an 18” epoxy roller painting 1/4 of the floor at a time then threw chips on. My garage was 20’ x 22’ and coverage was just right. As with any coating project I believe PREP is the most important thing!
This review is for the PROFESSIONAL epoxy product which is NOT LATEX based. We did ALOT of prep based on the problems we saw on various blogs and ratings. 1. It was a new concrete that was 6 months old. First I pressure washed it, then using my hoover floor mate scrubber, I cleaned it and sucked up the water, Then I rinsed it with the pressure washer. Then we used muriatic acid per the instructions in the rustoleum box, rinsed it three times. Let it dry over 24 hours.. Next we had two kits of two, so we mixed the two base gallons in a five gallon bucket, poured back into one of the gallons and added the part B to the remaining product in the five gallon bucket and mixed it with a mixer on the drill for a few minutes. We waited 45 minutes to begin brushing the edges and then started rolling and sprinkling. I took 50% blue, black white sprinkles that came in the kit and added 50% SPARKLEY sprinkles to it. (This space is going to be my woodworking/artist studio) we painted in 4 foot squares, but actually did not have to use the second gallon. Our space is 24X20. We waited two days and then put the clear gloss finish over it and it looks really spectacular. The GLOSS actually took twice what it said on the box, which was odd, but based on other comments, I had a second kit on hand just in case..
If you follow the instructions this is a good product. This particular product is actually 2 packages, meaning 2 applications. I had new concrete so i didn't have too much difficulty with the prep work but it's absolutely required to ensure you have a good surface to work with. I cleaned the concrete thoroughly and did the Acid etch on it also. I let it dry out for a few days and even placed a dehumidifier below the garage to ensure it I cut the humidity levels. If it's too humid the Epoxy might not adhere well and it could peel off soon. The application was fairly easy. After you paint the footings with a brush you can finally get to the floor. Get a nice roller and extension and roll it on. Make sure you let the product set 30-60 minutes before you roll it on though and mix it very good. 2 coats is necessary for a good finished product, after 1 coat you will notice unevenness in the coating because some of the concrete absorbs more epoxy then others. I added a 2nd coat the next day and it turned out great. After I completed the 2nd coat of Epoxy I added the Rustoleum Epoxy Shield Premium Clear coat the following day. Basically leave 1 day in between each coating. I love the finished product. The floor looks like it has a glass coating over it and reminds me of a showroom floor. I also added the fine sand into the clear coat which gives the floor a little more added texture and grip.
One thing you should know is the smell and fumes from this stuff is horrible. You must leave your garage door open for atleast a day otherwise you will choke on those fumes in your house. It was bad. The clear coat not so much.
Products I used:
Rustoleum Cleaner/Degreaser - Rust-Oleum 301243 Cleaner and Degreaser, 1 gallon
Rustoleum Acid Etch - Rust-Oleum 238475 EPOXYShield Concrete Etch
2 Applications of Epoxy Professional- Added 2nd coat at 24hrs after the 1st.
1 Application of Clear Coat but needed to buy 2 packages. The single package did not come close to being enough. Thankfully I read a few reviews prior and bought 2 of them because I had to open it mid way through the job.
Rust-Oleum 292514 Epoxy Shield Premium Series Clear Floor Coating Kit,
Gloves - Epoxy very hard to get off your skin
Paint Brush to do footings of garage
Several 3/8" Nap quality roller that doesn't shed
Extension for Roller
Several Tray liners to put epoxy and clear coat in
Drop cloth to keep all your stuff on
knee pads so when painting footings it's easier
Several 5 gallon buckets (For Epoxy)
1 new clean paint can to mix clear coat with sand
Several stir sticks to keep mixing the epoxy and clear coat while using
I did my research pretty well and that floor should never come up ever. I even OVER did it...and used a pressure washer every time when they suggested that you could rinse with just the hose. Pressure washed, then did the muriatic acid TWICE (2 separate days) to ensure all pores would be exposed, let it dry for a day, did the crack seal, let it dry for a day, then the epoxy, let it dry 24 hours, then the clear with the anti skid applied very liberally and letting it cure for 7 days instead of the recommended 4 (before putting a car on it). I was unsure about adding the anti skid but now that I see and feel it, the grainy texture feels fantastic and is no worse than a course concrete. It'll keep you from breaking your neck after you park and it's been raining and the ground is wet.
From what I gathered in my research, the water based rustoleum epoxy shield that home depot stocks on the shelves has a tendency to show signs of hot tire pick up where you park within a few years. Even the prep for that over the counter kit is only a citrus powder etc, rather than the muriatic acid. It dries to 3 mil thick...the one I got, which I bought from home depot online, is the "professional" line and it's solvent based which dries to 5 to 6 mil. That, in addition to the solvent based clear probably gives you about 10 or more mil thickness before you'd even hit concrete from parking, dropping tools or even running a jack over it constantly. The professional kit is labeled as intended for industrial floor use where you're in the middle of a machine shop with sparks and every fluid possible going on it without affecting integrity. All in all, if you ever do it, count on doing the clear. The floor just didn't feel or look finished without it, even the texture of the flakes that were kinda sticking up, you could feel them and where I had patched looked glossy where the bare areas didn't.
I probably could have spread it super thin and gotten away with it only costing $100 for epoxy and $100 for epoxy clear. Supporting tools like the mixing bit and epoxy roller etc were probably an extra $50. BUT, I would rather have had too much than not enough, I wanted a nice thick coat.
One gripe is the sprinkle dispersing, but that's more about me than the kit. I would do a good job, then roll over the edge of my previous square to keep a "wet edge" and I would roll over the sprinkles. So I'd have to add more to hide the line but it was hard to do from 4 feet away so there are some heavy areas and some areas where you can see the squares I painted on the floor, kinda. I'm just being picky and I'm sure it'll be less noticeable once there are cars and workbench in the garage. I wonder if using one of those seed/fertilizer hand dispensers would be good...otherwise, if possible, throw them UP in the air and don't onto the edge of your previous 4' square where you've already laid down sprinkles.
Also, I wish that Rustoleum would sell smaller kits to get the job done. I have a 550 square foot garage and needed approximately 3 gallons of the 4 gallon epoxy kit and approximately 1.5 gallons of the 2 gallons of clear epoxyshield kit (applied liberally). At nearly $100 per gallon of either the base color or the clear, it kinda hurts to let $100 harden in a 5 gallon container because you didn't need it.
All in all, for $400 and what I consider a pretty professional high end finish, I'm happy.
Pros: Very Adhesive, Even Application, High Quality of Material, Good Coverage, Looks Great, Looks High End, Dries Quickly
Cons: need quart kits to finish without waste, need better suggestions on laying down the sprinkl