I got this to use for a new project a combination temperature and humidity control.
The Southwire (By-the-Foot)16-2 Black Standed Lamp Wire is versatile and easy to work with what you can do with it is really only limited by your own imagination.
This is being done as a special super review .
The finished product is a combination temperature and humidity controller. it can be used for a egg incubator, exotic pet snake tank, water dragon tank, and cigar humidor, etc.
The list of parts for this project are :
a leviton 15 amp duplex outlet
a leviton single gang duplex outlet cover
a Carlon 1-Gang 18 cu. in. PVC Old Work Box
a leviton 2 gang decora black switch plate
a Carlon 2 gang 32 cu new work box
a HDX 15 amp 120 volt 3 prong grounded 6 foot appliance cord
Southwire (By-the-Foot)16-2 Stranded White Lamp Wire and Southwire
(By-the-Foot)16-2 Black Standed Lamp Wire
a wire nut for said wire
4 Everbilt #6 x 3/4 in. Zinc-Plated Pan-Head Phillips Drive Sheet Metal Screws
a temperature control
a humidity control
Rust-Oleum Professional 15 oz. Safety Red Inverted Marking Spray Paint and Rust-Oleum Professional 15 oz. Gloss Royal Blue Spray Paint
Easy MaskKleenEdge 0.94 in. x 54-2/3 yds. Low Tack Painting Tape, news paper.
2 sets of Everbilt #8-32 tpi Zinc-Plated Machine Screw Nut with Everbilt #8-32 in. x 1 in. Truss Head Combo Zinc Machine Screw
The wire nut and wire strippers came from the GARDNER BENDER304-Piece Electrical Project Kit, Includes Tools, Tester, Wire Nuts, Cable Ties, Staples and Tape in Reusable Canister
tools : black magic marker, drill, knife, flat and Phillips screw driver, wire strippers, straight edge or ruler, needle nose pliers, precision small screw driver set, multi meter
step 1 : remove the mounting screws from the outlet
2] put the outlet into the the holes for the switch plate and the outlet cover, use a black magic marker to mark the mounting holes
3] drill out all of the holes so the screws will fit snugly.
4] take the outlet cover and cover 1/2 with the news paper using the painters tape and paint it red and put it aside.
5] take the back wire cover off the temp control, hold it up to the decora switch plate for each hole and use the marker to mark off the excess plastic on the left and right sides.
this should be done on the back side, the wire covers are dis-guarded.
6] using the knife cut away the excess plastic so the temp control will fit into both holes snugly with out moving up or down.
7] take both box's, where they will connect together and mark a center line, the 2 gang box needs to have the mounting ears facing down.
8] measure 1 inch from the back of the 2 gang box and make a x on the center line, now measure 2 inchs up put a - and then out from each side of that - and make a x in each spot.
9] do the same to the 1 gang box
10] drill out the outer x holes so the nut and bolt combos will fit the outer holes
11] drill out the center x hole to 1/2 , 5/8 or 3/4 inch
12] on the back of the 2 gang box their is a knock out opposite the wings
13] above the knock out drill 2 holes so a sheet rock screw can fit in them but not the head.
14] pop the knock out, out, and use the knife to cut from the knock out up to the outer edges of the holes so you have a hanging hole with a slot that will hang on a dry wall screw.
15] on the inside of the 2 gang box their are wings on each side of the wire holders that need to be removed.
as they stick out past the screw mounting posts
they can be cut out with the knife, i did that the first few dozen times.
then I started drilling the out side wing area and rip them out with needle nose pliers from the inside.
this is all so the temp and humidity controls will fit.
16] the decora face plate can be placed on the front of the 2 gang box, use the screws to make sure the mounting holes line up correctly, make a line on the back of the face plate where it meets the edge of the 2 gang box on the bottom where it will connect to the 1 gang box.
17] now the top and bottom box's can be bolted together.
18] using the sheet metal sheers cut the plastic line across the bottom of the decora face plate. put it aside.
19] the power wire comes in the bottom of the 1 gang box through a wire holder and the ground from it can be screwed onto the earth ground of the outlet and so can the neutral wire.
20] the hot wire gets connected to 4x 14 or 16 gauge wires with the wire nut and they get run through the hole from the 1 gang box into the bottom of the 2 gang box
21] those 4 wires left to right connect to pin 1 solenoid supply and pin 3 power supply on both controllers, you can connect them later.
the pin numbers are facing the back of the controllers
22] 2 ground wires are connected to the second screw of the neutral on the outlet and are run to pin 4 return on both controllers, for now they can be run through the hole box 1 to box 2 they are connected later.
23] break the tab connecting the 2 screws together on the outlet for the small spade hot wire
24] connect 2 wires 1 to each screw these are your feed wires they will connect to pin 2 on each unit, they can be run through the hole.
25]pry open the wire holders with a screw driver and put the humidity sensor wire in the top section and the temp sensor wire in the lower section, both in the lower wire holders of the left side facing the front of the unit.
26] take the tape off the one side of the outlet cover , reverse it and paint the other side blue.
27] take the decora face plate and with the cut side facing down put the temp control in the lower spot so the cut edge is below it.
28] using the wire strippers strip 1/4 inch off the ends of all of the wires after they have been cut to a appropriate length, remembering the extra wire goes into the bottom on the 1 gang box.
29] using the small screw drivers connect the sensor wire first to the temp control from the temp probe, then connect the rest of the wires as described above. using the multi meters beep for closed circuit function to determine which wire is which if their all the same color, the hot feed wire should go to the left side of the outlet.
30] now put in the humidity control, you can see it blocks the screw blocks on the temp control, which is why it had to be done in the correct order. now connect all of the wires as listed above and match up the sensor wires to the listed colors on the wire diagram on the control box, ignoring the rest of the wiring diagram. hot feed to right side outlet.
31] now for the real fun, carefully push the face plate with the now wired up and mounted controls into the 2 gang box, while gently pulling on the sensor wires so they are not jammed in the box and the same to all of the supply wires pulling the excess into the base of the 1 gang box under the outlet.
32] once the face plate is close enough , put in your screws and gently start tightening it so the face plate depresses into the 2 gang box. once it is behind the front of the single gang box that sits out 1/2 further then the 2 gang box your good.
33] gently squash all of the extra wire down into the single gang box so the outlet will fit in their.
if your wires are too long now is the time to shorten them.
34] you can put your vinyl letters on top of the humidity and temp controls
35] if the outlet cover is dry you can mount it using its 3 screws, dont put on the vinyl letters just yet in case you reversed the feed wires.
plug it in and your all set, if the feed wires are correct for function you can put on your vinyl letters. other wise just reverse the outlet cover.
I developed this entire project off the top of my head, their are no blue prints or diagrams and this is the first time I have ever typed out a entire procedure of how I build them.
This is how to build the combination single zone temperature with humidity control.
I also build multi zone temp controls some with over temp alarms.
EVERY THING beyond the temperature and humidity controls them self's was purchased at Home Depot.