A great fastener and more reasonably priced when bought in lots of 100. There IS a learning curve but works well once you get the hang of it.
Accessories recommended: Stud finder or pilot drill to make sure there is a cavity behind where you are locating the anchor; 3/4" drill appropriate to the material you are drilling into; long handle bent needle-nose pliers; #8 flat washer for each anchor; strong fingers.
Please note: the anchors advertise a load capacity in a 360-degree arc, all the way around. BUT NOT AWAY FROM THE SURFACE. Whether that is on a wall or ceiling, there is no way for the manufacturer to know how strongly attached whatever you are putting the anchor into is attached itself, or how thick it is. 1/8th inch thick paneling will not hold what ¾” sheetrock will, and on a ceiling that is very little. Same on a wall, but now the load is probably at an angle, and who does the trigonometry to figure out the effective load component? Only architects and engineers. A picture hook load is almost totally straight down. A shelf load is both down and outward, especially when a kid or unsteady adult hangs on the front of the shelf. Anything in the ceiling is almost all straight down, trying to pull through the surface. DON’T use any fastener not embedded into a piece of framing timber or steel to hold a straight drop load! In a wall, the anchor is primarily trying to support a vertical load by shearing its’ way down through the face of the wall. That will hold a lot.
My experience: Stud finders usually indicate a wider area than the actual stud, which is good because the Wingit will be almost 2” across when tightened against the wall. If they bump up against the edge of a stud, the legs may not lay flat against the wall and the anchor is more likely to fail. I have used about 30 so far. They come un-assembled and snapping the leg assembly into the neck can be hard – be sure to tap or push on straight: I let one bend sideways and the neck tore, making the anchor useless even before it got near a wall.
I used my own ¾” drill to go through 5/8” sheetrock and started to push in the anchor assembly – I tried doing this with just the plastic parts once since the thing had been so hard to assemble, and somehow the assembly fell apart inside the wall. Bad idea.
I found it quite hard to squeeze the three legs down tight enough to get them through the ¾” hole so I used my bent-nose, needle-nose pliers to squeeze the legs down enough to fit into the hole without hurting my tender pinkies. Doing a few is not a problem, but tough on the hands after a few dozen. The pliers were also great to go the final distance to get the legs flush with the wall – put the nose of the pliers against two legs and the handle against the wall, then thump the middle of the pliers gently a few times and Voila – legs flush with the surface! I then used the same pliers to gently push the legs of the anchor into the wall a bit more to minimize the chance of breaking away sheetrock as they pushed through. If you are mounting on tile, that obviously will not be a problem, but any damage to the surrounding sheetrock will reduce the load capacity of the anchor, so being careful is worth the effort.
I also learned another thing – make sure the part that sits on the surface of the wall has not snuck up toward the base of the 3 legs, because it will prevent the legs from closing down tight enough to go through the ¾” hole. I overlooked this once, got frustrated when the darn thing would not seat, tapped the big flat surface a bit too hard and the entire thing went through a now larger hole in the wall. OOPS. I was actually able to salvage this hole location because when I put in the next anchor, the legs were spread out wide enough to hold, but although the head would fall through, I put some cardboard under it to hold it temporarily so I could then remove the screw and reinsert it after going through one of the 4’ vertical shelf support tracks I was using. The screw is not likely to pull through that steel and the track hid the cardboard.
One last point - If you buy a smaller pack of Wingits with the wall hook attachment, you will not have one of the problems I had – a submarining screw head. The wall hook plate provides something hard to tighten the screw down onto. Since my first project was to hang shelving, I had to install the Wingit anchors, tighten the anchor down securely, and then remove the screws (Yes, the assembly will stay in place with the screw removed) so I could later attach the shelf track with several anchors. This all works fine until you lose concentration and overtighten the screw a bit, without anything under the head. It can easily bore down into the anchor where it will stay. Unless you have a screw-removing bit handy, that anchor is done, and no easy way to use it to hang something. I solved this by putting a #8 flat washer (#10 if using the extra heavy duty Wingit anchors) under the head of the screw while tightening it down. Take it off or use it during final assembly.
Overall, a valuable addition to my list of products used to make my world kid and klutz-proof.