Questions and Answers for Carlon 1-Gang 14 cu. in. PVC Old Work Electrical Switch and Outlet Box

A:  No, they are unable to extend that far.

A:  No, but you could probably replace them with longer screws.

A:  No. The screws are not long enough....

A:  You'll have a little difficulty using them in that thickness of wall. It would be better to locate the box next to a stud and secure with two drywall screws through the side of the box (that is if trying it on that thickness of wall doesn't work)

A:  Yes

A:  Your interpretation of the box imprint comports with the pertinent entries of National Electrical Code (NEC) Table 314.16(A). Regarding your use of pigtails, you should refer to NEC Article 314 (B)(1) to find that the number of conductors you described falls within those guidelines. If you're concerned about workmanship within the box, perhaps push-on connectors (versus wire nuts) would provide a bit more efficient space utilization.

A:  No.

A:  No

A:  No your over the box fill. Count 2 hots and 2 neutral the ground only counts once the largest one and any wire that originates inside the box you don’t count like the pigtail and the receptacle or device counts twice for each device on the largest conductor. 2 hots + 2 neutrals + 1 ground + 2 for device = 7 #12 awg Size of # 12 conductor 2.25 cu inches 2.25*7= 15.75 cu inches and the box you have is 14 cu inches so your over the box fill. 6/12 does mean 6 # 12awg but if you install a device that is what put you over your box fill.

A:  It is based on the cubic inch capacity of the box. The B114RB has a capacity of 14 cubic inches. This would translate to 6 of a #12, or 5 of a #10. Reference is Table 314.16 of the National Electric Code.

A:  @-12/2 wires will work. 12/2 wires are much stiffer to maneuver, so, don't pack too may in a single box.

A:  If you're saying that you tied the two cables together with a wire-nut and had a third wire in each nut run to the receptacle, I have to ask why. Other than for the ground wire, receptacles are made to accept two wires per pole. That aside, the box is rated for six wires coming in. It's assumed that you'll be making normal assembly connections inside.

A:  Perfectly acceptable and meets code.

A:  Wouldn't seem so...

A:  Sure can. That's what they are made for.

A:  Yes

A:  That is a cut in box. If the wall is already drywalled then that is the box for you. If not and different box would be a better choice.

A:  Yes, this is the best solution if your walls are finished. If studs are exposed use a ''new work" box instead.

A:  Yes, they are designed to be cut into drywall where the cable is fished into the wall.

A:  If you are placing a box against an exposed stud, it would be better if you use a nail up box. This particular box is made to attach to a sheet rock opening and clamp to the sheetrock for support - that's why they call it "old work".

A:  Yes

A:  Yes....

A:  Yes. IT does not require access to a stud. Simply cut the hole in the wall and insert. The clasp in the upper right of photo will swing out and secure the box in place.

A:  If your walls are already covered, then yes will work.

A:  The box autolocks the wire in place. The small flanges covering the openings act as the clamp. Dont buy the metal one, this is awesome for existing construction. D

A:  When you push the wire/cable through the holes in the back corners of the box the tabs should bend back to help restrain the wire/cable. The only way the wires are going to back out of the box is if you breakoff the tabs. You can bend them into the box so it's easy to push the wire into the box but DO NOT break them.

A:  The plastic clamps in the back of the box(if they are no broken) are used to secure the NM romex.

A:  The blue tabs covering the holes are meant to allow a wire in but not out. Dont break them off.

A:  You’re pushing the plastic flap in the back enough to get the wires through that holds it in place

A:  No securing necessary. It's a plastic box so there will be no friction against the box that might cut through the insulation. There is some clamping, though, by the tab that's pushed aside to allow the wire entry into the box, if it makes you feel better.

A:  Stab the cable through the access ports. The flaps act like a trap door. They will engage the cable jacket to resist pullout. Don't stick a curious pinky in there or you'll be reminded of 'thumb torture' traps kids braided from streamers and gimp - or a slow poke disassembling his M1.

A:  there are break out tabs (2 on top and 2 on bottom that work like a door that you bend in and it springs back to grab the wire to keep it from pulling out

A:  There is a compressed tab in the hole where you insert the wire. The wire goes only towards the cavity of the box and will not or cannot be pulled back: that is the safety feature.

A:  HI well the plastic clamps hold the wire from moving. the way this is designed is for the box to be mounted on a stud in a wall and it simply holds the wires in place. now if your looking for some thing like you might see at a carnival or concert where the wires are being dragged around then you need a metal box with wire clamps. so this kind of box https://www.homedepot.com/p/Single-Gang-Drawn-Handy-Box-1-7-8-in-Deep-with-1-2-in-KO-s-8660/100560024 with this kind of wire clamp https://www.homedepot.com/s/Connector%252C%2520Clamp?NCNI-5

A:  Once the 2 tabs are secured firmly into place, no other screws are needed unless the drywall is loose from a rough cut.

A:  None needed. The ears keep the box from falling into the box and the ears keep it from falling out. The holes are alternative mounting method, if the box is going onto a wood surface, and not really needed.

A:  Thank you for your question. # 6 screw is the screw size used to secure the 4 tabs.

A:  Don't use when installing in drywall. They would be used if up against a stud or other structure where the tab cannot be used. The two corner tabs do the job in sheet rock.

A:  Tabs hold the box in cutout, extra screws wood not help in drywall....

A:  150 come in a case, its $147 in my location. price and availability vary s by location. here is a link http://www.homedepot.com/p/1-Gang-14-cu-in-Old-Work-Box-Case-of-150-B114RB/202197958

A:  Home Depot currently sells at a discounted price when minimum order of 10. At time of answer, it drops the price to 0.86 each

A:  $147 for 1-Gang 14 cu. in. Old Work Box (Case of 150)

A:  150 for $150

A:  150 come in a case for the price of $147

A:  Thank you for your question. Unfortunately, you will need to check your local code to find this information as it differs everywhere.

A:  New York City encompasses five different county-level administrative divisions called boroughs: Manhattan, the Bronx, Queens, Brooklyn, and Staten Island. Department of Buildings - Bronx Borough Office City Government Office Bronx, NY (718) 960-4700 Closed today ask for code enforcement, they can tell you the local laws and regulations for what you can and can not use.

A:  Of course

A:  You would have to check with your local code person

A:  No. I'm afraid not. Old boxes have a bump on the side and plastic boxes have thick side walls. By design, they only work if you remove the side wall or there's too much space between centers.

A:  Yes, but its going to be vary tight fit. the switch in the middle as center point and the 2 on the outside will have to be loose where they mount to the boxs so you can slide them back and forth so they will line up with the screw points in the plate. you can use a small screw driver through the screw mounting hole in the plate to move the switchs so they will mount up with the holes.

A:  If you put a gap between them, otherwise a 3 switch cover plate will not fit. Instead, remove the 2 switch bow, open the hole and install a 3-Gang 55 cu. in. Old Work Box. Works the same as this one, just for three switches

A:  No. The spacing would be too wide for the plate to match up with the screw holes.

A:  The B114RB (SKU 202460) cannot be mounted next to a double switch old work box and have a three gang switch plate still fit across it.

A:  use box as a templet ....

A:  4 1/4 x 2 1/4

A:  For the batch of boxes I got the hole needed is 3 3/4" x 2 1/4".

A:  The best way to determine that, for any box, is to turn the box opening to face the wall and trace around it lightly in pencil. Be certain to trace inside the "ears" at the top and bottom that will keep the box from falling into the wall. Start at the top and one side. Then slide the box about 1/8 inch down and to the side to give an opening just a trace larger than the box. If you're not certain that you're going to miss a stud make a very small opening in the drywall (a phillips screwdriver makes a nice drill) and probe to the side (a wire coat hanger bent into a curve does this nicely).

A:  It’s approximately that size

A:  Pretty much any for most lights. A round and a square box have the same height measurement.

A:  This box is not for use with light fixtures. It is for use with switches, receptacles.

A:  Any 1-gang box is fine but I would recommend a heavier wall box.

A:  Check with your local code enforcement