0320066050024

Rust-Oleum Parks

Model 241352

Internet #202057054

1-qt. Gloss Super Glaze Interior Finish and Preservative (Case of 3)

$74.94 /case
  • One pour = 60 coats of varnish
  • Ideal as a waterproof protective finish for tables and bar tops
  • Use to encase almost anything coins, pictures, shells and more

Frequently Bought Together

Product Overview

Achieve an ultra-thick, ultra-glossy, waterproof finish instantly with Rust-Oleum Parks Super Glaze Pour-On Finish and Preservative. Just 1 pour of this crystal-clear epoxy is as thick as 60 coats of varnish. Perfect for bar tops, kitchen islands and more.

California residents: see   Proposition 65 information

  • Pour on finish and preservative in ultra-thick high-gloss, crystal-clear epoxy that provides maximum durability and see-through
  • Covers 6.4 sq. ft.
  • Clear gloss finish
  • Ideal for furniture, tabletops, bars, game boards, clocks, plaques and ceramics
  • Resists water, heat and chemicals
  • Pours on for ease of use
  • Dries to touch in 8 hours
  • Cleans up with mineral spirits

Info & Guides

You will need Adobe® Acrobat® Reader to view PDF documents.  Download a free copy from the Adobe Web site.

Specifications

Dimensions

Details

Warranty / Certifications

More Products With These Features

Search

Customer Questions & Answers

17 Questions34 Answers

Customer Questions & Answers

1-qt. Gloss Super Glaze Interior Finish and Preservative (Case of 3)
1-qt. Gloss Super Glaze Interior Finish and Preservative (Case of 3)

Ask your questions. Share your answers.

 
 
Clear Search Term
 
 
Sort By:
 
4 answers

I used this product without a seal coating and had horrible results! Lots of bubbles. Sanded after a few days and recoat

This question is from 1-qt. Gloss Super Glaze Interior Finish and Preservative (Case of 3)
Asked by
Read all my Q&A
November 5, 2015
It's been 2 weeks now and there are spots that are still tacky. Where did I go wrong and how do I fix this. This was a small wood surface about 18"x48" ??? Help!!
0points
0out of 0found this question helpful.
Was this helpful?helpful0unhelpful0

Answers (4)

Asked by
chicopee, ma
Read all my Q&A
Home Improvement Profile: Professional
July 19, 2016
Answer: 
if it isn't drying I would guess that you didn't have the right 50-50 parts A and B, or you didn't stir it long enough.
You might be better off removing what you poured and start over. As far as the bubbles-use a torch about 4-5 inches away. Keep the torch moving, don't let it dwell in one area. Like a spray painting motion over the surface that you have coated. The heat will bring bubbles to surface
Read More
if it isn't drying I would guess that you didn't have the right 50-50 parts A and B, or you didn't stir it long enough.
You might be better off removing what you poured and start over. As far as the bubbles-use a torch about 4-5 inches away. Keep the torch moving, don't let it dwell in one area. Like a spray painting motion over the surface that you have coated. The heat will bring bubbles to surface and they will disappear.
Read Less
User submitted photo
0points
0out of 0found this answer helpful.
Was this helpful?helpful0unhelpful0

Asked by
Hanover, PA
Read all my Q&A
Home Improvement Profile: DIYer
December 4, 2015
Answer: 
This product takes an allotted time to apply. I recommend getting a heat gun or at minimum a good hair dryer. You will need to go over for a decent period of time bringing all the air bubbles to the surface. Even still, in the even you have large air bubbles (and you should have no tiny ones if you use the heat gun), you can cut the open and "clean them out" with an exact knife and they will disappear Read More
This product takes an allotted time to apply. I recommend getting a heat gun or at minimum a good hair dryer. You will need to go over for a decent period of time bringing all the air bubbles to the surface. Even still, in the even you have large air bubbles (and you should have no tiny ones if you use the heat gun), you can cut the open and "clean them out" with an exact knife and they will disappear with a second coat. Read Less
+1point
1out of 1found this answer helpful.
Was this helpful?helpful1unhelpful0

November 12, 2015
Answer: 
Uh oh. We hope that this can be salvaged and that the surface can be recoated properly. This product is a chemically cured epoxy that hardens through a reaction between the resin and activator in the kit. If the product has not fully hardened at this point, it is not likely it will. While there is nothing that can be done to cause the tacky areas to harden, you can remove the tacky material from the Read More
Uh oh. We hope that this can be salvaged and that the surface can be recoated properly. This product is a chemically cured epoxy that hardens through a reaction between the resin and activator in the kit. If the product has not fully hardened at this point, it is not likely it will. While there is nothing that can be done to cause the tacky areas to harden, you can remove the tacky material from the surface with acetone. The acetone can be applied with a rag or a fine steel wool and then the soft product can be wiped or scraped off of the surface. If there are any areas that have properly hardened, the acetone will not affect them. There are a few key points to apply this product properly so that it cures and hardens consistently. First, it is best to apply the product when temperatures are between 70 and 80 degrees; cooler temperatures can slow or prevent the chemical cure of the epoxy. We recommend if applying more than one kit, that you only mix one kit at a time. It is important to have three clean cups for each kit used. Even when using the entire kit, pour out and measure each component of the kit into its own cup. (The two components do not have the same viscosity and you may not get equal amounts from simply pouring both bottles into the same cup.) Using separate cups also allows you to scrape the inside of the cup when transferring one to the other, ensuring that the entire component is integrated properly. After you measure and combine the two components, stir for at least two minutes, then transfer the mixture into a third, clean cup and stir for another two minutes, making sure to scrape the inside of the previous cup with a stir stick to ensure all of the material is transferred. Read Less
+1point
1out of 1found this answer helpful.
Was this helpful?helpful1unhelpful0

Asked by
South dakota
Read all my Q&A
November 6, 2015
Answer: 
Make sure the temp stays above 70 degrees for atleast 72 hrs.Also be sure it's a perfect 50/50 mix.
0points
0out of 0found this answer helpful.
Was this helpful?helpful0unhelpful0
 
4 answers

what will not stick to this product

This question is from 1-qt. Gloss Super Glaze Interior Finish and Preservative (Case of 3)
Asked by
north port fl
Read all my Q&A
March 30, 2015
i have a bar top that needs to be finished one edge does not have a lip to hold product from flowing over edge. need to place something along edge to hod product in place until it sets
0points
0out of 0found this question helpful.
Was this helpful?helpful0unhelpful0

Answers (4)

Asked by
South dakota
Read all my Q&A
November 6, 2015
Answer: 
Plastic ,waxed paper ,
0points
0out of 0found this answer helpful.
Was this helpful?helpful0unhelpful0

Asked by
Ohio
Read all my Q&A
April 23, 2015
Answer: 
Not sure what to tell you about this. When I did my vanity top I just kept brushing the edge with a sponge brush until it stopped dripping. It is pretty thick. I put newspapers down to keep drips off the floor.
0points
0out of 0found this answer helpful.
Was this helpful?helpful0unhelpful0

Asked by
Kirksville, MO
Read all my Q&A
April 16, 2015
Answer: 
Not sure if this will help, but I used blue painters tape around the edge to create a lip around the edges of my flat desk top. To add extra support and keep the product from pushing the tape back at all, I placed some long thin strips of card board (cut from some boxes I had laying around) and secured those on the outside of the painters tape along the edges. Worked great for me. After everything had Read More
Not sure if this will help, but I used blue painters tape around the edge to create a lip around the edges of my flat desk top. To add extra support and keep the product from pushing the tape back at all, I placed some long thin strips of card board (cut from some boxes I had laying around) and secured those on the outside of the painters tape along the edges. Worked great for me. After everything had set, I removed the cardboard strips, and the painters tape came right off from the dried product. No residue or anything left behind or difficulty pulling off the painters tape. Read Less
0points
0out of 0found this answer helpful.
Was this helpful?helpful0unhelpful0

March 31, 2015
Answer: 
It will depend on if the edge is straight or if it is rounded (bull nose). If the bar top has a hard edge, you can use masking tape along the sides of the bar top, leaving the edge of the tape to stick out above the top about 1/8-1/4". Double up on the masking tape to create a strong barrier to stop the SuperGlaze. You will then remove the tape when the Superglaze has hardened and can brush a Read More
It will depend on if the edge is straight or if it is rounded (bull nose). If the bar top has a hard edge, you can use masking tape along the sides of the bar top, leaving the edge of the tape to stick out above the top about 1/8-1/4". Double up on the masking tape to create a strong barrier to stop the SuperGlaze. You will then remove the tape when the Superglaze has hardened and can brush a polyurethane, or more of the SuperGlaze, along the sides to coat them.
If the bartop is rounded, you will want to put plastic underneath the bar top to protect surfaces underneath, and simply allow the glaze to flow over the edge and drip off the bottom edge. You can smooth out the glaze with a brush while it is wet to make sure that the entire surface is coated evenly. Allow the glaze to continue to dry until the dripping has stopped and the glaze has started to harden along the bottom edge of the bar top. With a razor blade or putty knife, scrape along the bottom edge to remove the drips and you will be left with a clean, straight edge. You can also use this method with straight edge countertops as well if you prefer. Read Less
+1point
1out of 1found this answer helpful.
Was this helpful?helpful1unhelpful0
 
3 answers

Do i need to do a sealing coat?

This question is from 1-qt. Gloss Super Glaze Interior Finish and Preservative (Case of 3)
Asked by
Clifton Park, NY
Read all my Q&A
September 15, 2015
I have covered an old table with pennies and there is little to no wood visible. Would i need to do a sealing coat prior to completing the table with epoxy finish?
0points
0out of 0found this question helpful.
Was this helpful?helpful0unhelpful0

Answers (3)

Asked by
Hanover, PA
Read all my Q&A
Home Improvement Profile: DIYer
December 4, 2015
Answer: 
I covered mine in bottle caps. Yours will be easier because you should have no pockets up air under the pennies like I had with the caps. You don't need a seal coat. Up to you if you want to polish the pennies first but otherwise you can just pour it right on top. In the event that you have some spots that feel "bumpy" from there not being enough resin to cover the pennies, don't sweat it, wait 72 hours Read More
I covered mine in bottle caps. Yours will be easier because you should have no pockets up air under the pennies like I had with the caps. You don't need a seal coat. Up to you if you want to polish the pennies first but otherwise you can just pour it right on top. In the event that you have some spots that feel "bumpy" from there not being enough resin to cover the pennies, don't sweat it, wait 72 hours and apply a second cover over the whole surface and you will be good to go. Read Less
+1point
1out of 1found this answer helpful.
Was this helpful?helpful1unhelpful0

Asked by
South dakota
Read all my Q&A
October 27, 2015
Answer: 
No,give it 72 hours and put in service
0points
0out of 0found this answer helpful.
Was this helpful?helpful0unhelpful0

September 21, 2015
Answer: 
Hi Dan,
Parks Super Glaze Pour on Finish & Preservative is an ultra thick high gloss clear epoxy that provides exceptional durability. You do not have to use a sealing coat prior to the Super Glaze.
+1point
1out of 1found this answer helpful.
Was this helpful?helpful1unhelpful0
 
3 answers

can i pour this over wood coated with fibergass resin?

This question is from 1-qt. Gloss Super Glaze Interior Finish and Preservative (Case of 3)
Asked by
Read all my Q&A
August 24, 2015
0points
0out of 0found this question helpful.
Was this helpful?helpful0unhelpful0

Answers (3)

Asked by
South dakota
Read all my Q&A
October 27, 2015
Answer: 
Yes
0points
0out of 0found this answer helpful.
Was this helpful?helpful0unhelpful0

August 27, 2015
Answer: 
Yes, Parks Super Glaze Pour On Finish & Preservative can be used over almost any interior surface. If applying over a previous finish, we recommend testing a small application in an inconspicuous area to confirm compatibility with Super Glaze.
0points
0out of 0found this answer helpful.
Was this helpful?helpful0unhelpful0

August 25, 2015
Answer: 
Yes, this product can be used on wood with resin.
0points
0out of 0found this answer helpful.
Was this helpful?helpful0unhelpful0
2 »
  • 2016-08-24 T15:48:17.016-05:00
  • bvseo_lps, prod_bvqa, vn_prr_5.6
  • cp-1, bvpage1
  • co_hasquestionsanswers
  • loc_en_US, sid_202057054, prod, sort_default
2 »
  • bvseo_sdk, java_sdk, bvseo-3.1.1
  • CLOUD, getContent, 151ms
  • QUESTIONS, PRODUCT

Customer Reviews

Rated 4.3 out of 5 by 65 reviewers.
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by excellent product I used this resin system to coat a serving tray and also to seal bottle caps in drink coasters. It dried crystal clear. July 19, 2016
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by EXCELLENT PRODUCT Recommended to all my friends. Nice finished. Once you lay the product it will take some time to cure but when it's cured looks like a customized item from the store August 2, 2016
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by Exceeded Expectations As always I was skeptical after reading one or two bad reviews and a "horror story" blog so I proceeded with caution. I followed the directions to a T and as a result my fears were squashed. I poured mine over bottle caps so I needed a thicker coat than if you are just pouring over a flat surface. As a result there were a few spots where bubbles had appeared from air under some caps. Make sure you dig these out before adding a section layer and they will be gone. I'm by no means an expert, but rather consider myself a "trial and error" guy at everything I do. The price is a little high but you definitely get what you pay for. I'm really glad I decided to go this route with my bar as it looks amazing! I would recommend having a little more than you measured for as a second coat for any missed spots is going to need to cover entirely, not just the small portion you may need to go over again. December 4, 2015
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by Perfectly clear, glass-like finish I used the Park's super glaze to seal our linoleum counters that I had painted with a faux marble finish. The color was mostly white so I wanted something that would go on clear and STAY clear without any yellowing. The glaze went on easily and it levels itself as you're applying it. We have been using the counters as normal; they get wet a lot, they have things spilled on them and they get wiped down often, and the finish is as flawless now as it was the day I applied it. It is such a high gloss, even after all this heavy use, you can see yourself in it! This stuff is absolutely wonderful if you want a clear finish that is durable and high gloss. Love it! May 1, 2015
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by My review Good stuff used it before glad you have it in stock. May 17, 2016
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by With Patience it's Great First off, it says only sold online but I bought mine in store. I used mine to glaze my bathroom countertops that were an ugly laminate. I primed with 1-2-3 (tinted), then spray painted with Rust-Oleum Stone texture paint, finally glazed with Super Glaze. I wanted to finish with the Superglaze so the bathroom counter didn't have a texture (seems like that would get dirty easily). The Super Glaze was pretty simple and the end product was really great. My bathroom counter has vertical edges which were a little hard but I used a small squeeze bottle to do edges and vertical sides. Also, keep in mind any tools this product touches you're probably going to have to throw away. I bought cheap plastic paint scrapers to smooth it out. My end product did have some imperfections because I didn't have a heat gun or blow torch. I tried to use a hair dryer and long lighter but neither really worked at getting the bubbles out. If you want a really professional end result I'd get the heat gun. Tips: Use disposable tools Make sure to have plenty of drip cloth covering the entire area As it drips of the edges for the first hour, go through and smooth the drips or you'll have drops along the bottom edges that harden August 31, 2015
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by Desk Top My wife took an old desk top and painted it black, then she painted some flowers in bright colors and this glaze covered it and made the colors POP out and the desk is now ready for use. Very easy to use and if you get air bubbles just pass over them with a propane hand held torch and pop them. This is the third large project I used this for May 3, 2016
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by Thick covering This stuff really works when you want to cover something with a thick coating. Used this on my pub table and it looks great. Put pictures, coins and bills on the table, covered it three times and wow it looks great. April 26, 2016
  • 2016-08-23 T12:00:47.401-05:00
  • bvseo_lps, prod_bvrr, vn_prr_5.6
  • cp-1, bvpage1
  • co_hasreviews, tv_65, tr_65
  • loc_en_US, sid_202057054, prod, sort_default
2 3 >>
  • bvseo_sdk, java_sdk, bvseo-3.1.1
  • CLOUD, getContent, 54ms
  • REVIEWS, PRODUCT