40 ft. Master Gardener Lifetime Coiled Edging

I purchased Master Mark Lawn Edging to use as a barrier between the mulch in the garden bed and the wooden fence. The purpose is to prevent the bottom of the fence from rotting prematurely. The 5 in height works well and the installation was easy once I dug a shallow trench about 2 in deep next to the fence. I did follow the recommendations to roll the edging out in the sun prior to pulling it between the post and the boards. I installed this along 110 ft of fence and am pleased with the end result.

Very good quality. It was also very easy to do the job. I have already recommended to several friends and relatives. I put in 200 ft. Great product, made in USA.

I just finished some extensive landscaping at my new construction using this product. I followed what other reviewers recommended and laid it out in the sun first, and that made a huge difference. Some sections are easier to work with than others, and there's a few areas where we had to brace with rocks in order to keep it straight, but it performed as expected and looks great! Will use again for future projects.

Gives the garden a nice clean look. Didn't take long to put in. Lay it out in the sun to make it pliable, Wet the soil down , dig a trench and bury it. I love the look!

Form me: I read the reviews for this border product after searching the net for something very substantial with good quality AND IS OF RECYCLED MATERIALS!!!. I found this product to be exactly what I needed. After reading some negative reviews, it seemed that there were some 'operator errors' which were not the fault of the product. Read and know what you are buying first, ask if in doubt. The border is of a nice, heavy quality and very workable - if you unroll it, put a weight on each end to stop the curl, (I used a 60 lb bag of concrete on each end, what I had at hand) then leave it in the sun for a few hours, it becomes very workable. Note: You may want to use gloves after it warms up because being black, it really absorbs the heat and is very hot to the touch but bends like a rubber snake! Planning and String line: Before I installed the border, I used a string line placed 30" out from my property border. For my install, I found the 30" mulch width area is better then the standard 24" being my plants are 12" out from the property line. This gives me a little 'breathing room' for re-mulching later on. I ran the string line to a few taller stakes to get my straight lines located to establish the border. I dug down a little deeper then the 5" of the border to give me a little working/adjustment room. Note: You can use the string to find a leveling line if you keep the string very tight so you don't get any sag in the string line causing a dip in the stakes and border. For this, staking along the way or short string lines work best. I also used a 6 ft level spanning 4 stakes at once to keep it within level. You can use a 2 ft level and a wood 1x3-6' or 8' ON EDGE providing the 1x3 is STRAIGHT! It doesn't ahve to be dead on, close is ok, you can adjust it as you go. Bends: For making the bends, if you can, make a slow radius bend, not a real tight bend, its easier to make. Remember, slow bends and curves are easier on the eye then sudden ones. Besides, this product will not make a very tight bend. I found about a 15" to 18" radius is about it. Staking: I then used the 12" wooden landscape stakes from HD placed every 2 ft apart and closer on some curved areas to keep the radius even. For staking the curves, make the curve with the border first then stake it unless you have a very long curve. Note: You may want to invest in a small 2 or 3 lb hand held sledgehammer as a regular hammer doesn't have quite the drive to 'send home' the wooden stakes. After I found my starting/leveling point, I worked from there taking into account the slow up and down of the grade but tried to keep the stakes level as much as possible being my property is pretty level. If you have uneven ground I would adjust the stakes accordingly to the grade but try to keep away from sudden ups and downs. I drove down the stakes an inch lower then were I wanted the top of the border to be. I did this so the top tube part of the border could rest on the top of the stake so the border would not sink into the ground after time. I secured the border to the stake in the skirt part of the border about an 1-1/2" or so below the tube to the FRONT (yard side) of the wooden stakes via 1 in. fine Sheet Rock Screw I painted up for the job. (I used the fine SRS's - from HD found in the hardware section) so the screws wound keep the splitting of the stakes to a minimum, splitting will happen, but its no biggie). Back filling: I back filled the inside (mulch) area first with some gravel/dirt along the bottom to keep the bottom of the edging from pushing in from the front and causing an inward 'bow' on the top tube. I then mulched the back area pushing the mulch tightly up against the border then back filled the front. I have crushed 'pea' coral here in the Florida Keys which was easier to work with. Final touch: I raked and leveled the areas inside and out of the border, cleaned up my tools, gave the new border and mulch area a nice water soaking to clean off any dirt and dust, got my 'observation chair', put it in the shade and had a nice cool drink then 'observed'. Suggestion: I suggest taking your time, DON'T RUSH! Plan it out, get your ideas down, sketch them out if you have to for reference. Try to keep it level as much as possible, get the right materials and tools - don't skimp to save a 'buck', that doesn't work. Take frequent breaks, drink water - keep hydrated and look at what you have done so far. 'Eyeball' your lines form straightness, adjust things if need be. Just take your time and it will come out great !!!

This is truly a professional grade edging for sidewalks, flower beds, and other borders. In my case it was used for both a sidewalk and fire pit ring off the patio. The suggestion that the edging be paid out in the sun before use was spot on! I was able to mold it to the desired form, and with little pressure on both the inside and outside to form the desired shape - straight lines, and it remained there. This is a highly recommended product!

2nd review - Original edging installed last year looked good after the winter. I decided to finish the whole job and bought three more 40 foot lengths. The first two lengths I unpacked and installed had the same T design at the bottom. The third length had a different, less substantial T design, but I was still able to drill holes and insert 4 inch nails on the wider T side. See attached photo for a side by side comparison. I deducted one star from my previous rating due to the design change of the bottom T.

Attached photos show a couple installation hints: 1 - Used short pieces of wooden broom handle as connectors. Made black in center with magic marker. The Ames 2700000 broom handle (available at HD) was the exact diameter to fit inside edging openings. 2 -Used 4 inch nails to help anchor edging in a curved application. Drilled holes to slightly larger diameter than the nail. Had one hiccup with installation. Made the mistake of pre-cutting some of the lengths and placing in attic to warm up prior to installation. Believe the edging got too hot and lengths bowed a bit at the ends. Should have kept the edging in the shipping box and at room temperature just prior to placing in the sun to flatten for immediate installation.

Worked well for me…very robust.

Left edging in the sun for about 30 minutes and it was quite easy to bend for the corner and to place it in the ground afterwards . Was a great choice for me.