Customer Reviews for Rust-Oleum Specialty 16 oz. Gloss White Dry Erase Kit

I bought this to help repair an old whiteboard. The solution was very sticky and did not brush on easily. Used multiple different types of brushes, and it ended up not working properly. Couldn’t even write on the painted surface.

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It worked very well for me, however, I suggest buying two kits as the coverage was not adequate for a 4X8 whiteboard. Even with two the price is very reasonable compared to a remanufacture white board. The surface is very smooth and erases well with minimal streaking. I am using Sparkle with a soft cloth as a board eraser/cleaner which works awesome.

This was really hard to use and we had to restart the project

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Happy with the product and how well it works, but the cans were only 1/3 or so full which made me think that someone had tampered with them and returned them half used (appears much more full in video provided online). This prompted me to go back to the store to exchange them only to find out the new ones were the same. I understand you have to mix the two parts but it was nowhere full even after they were mixed, so a small indicator aside from the volume in the can would have been nice to have. Aside from that the product works fantastic as long as it’s left to fully cure according to the instructions. Would purchase again!

Does not work well, even when carefully applied it is not smooth enough and the texture makes the erasing of marks difficult. I’m repaintIng the walk and getting a real whiteboard.

The paint works well as a dry erase wall but doesn’t cover the square footage stated on the box.

Did everything according to the instructions, removed a door to paint it horizontally, applied a few coats, waited weeks for the paint to cure (to be sure!). The door looked good during those waiting weeks, but then it still stained and nearly every dry-erase mark can be read after repeated attempts to clean it with and without dry erase cleaner! Not worth your money.

I used this to turn the door to the cellar into a white board. To keep it as smooth as possible, I took the door off the hinges to do the painting. I did have to sand the door a bit first, and lightly between layers. I also used this in my office, but the results weren't as good. The wall surface itself was very hard to smooth, and the "drip factor" made it a little more challenging. I ended up using double the amount to get the surface as smooth as possible. Even with the bumps, it was well worth the time and effort !

Overall Im really pleased with the product

It worked well for covering old whiteboards that had become hard to erase. Good as new!

Works great. Just heed the 1 hour limit on use after mixing. It starts getting gummy. I would say try to be done within 45 minutes.

This product works really well if you do it right. If you do it fast and just slap one coat on a normal chunk of painted drywall w/o doing any prep, it's not going to measure up to a normal dry erase board. It will not erase well and if you don't erase immediately, the marker just wont come off at all no matter how hard you erase or scrub. I've used this in three classrooms, and I LOVE it. It's great to have multiple places to send student groups to brainstorm or draw something out. My wife and I both painted 4-5 rectangles around our classrooms. Those plus the front dry erase board makes for just the right amount of stations for us to send groups of students. Take your time to do it right. Sand as smooth as humanly possible and paint at the very least 2 coats if not 3. Use a foam roller like it says. The little hairs in a standard roller turn into annoying little bumps that you run into when writing with dry erase markers. I've used this product 3 times. I did it wrong once and payed for it. I had to paint over the wall b/c I couldn't get the marker off. For the ones I did right, it's literally the same as a normal dry erase board in terms of how well you can write, erase, etc.

It was amazing. It’s very easy to paint my kids love it.

I absolutely love this stuff. It's as easy as painting. I was able to do one entire door on a single box, just make sure you do the prep beforehand so it doesn't dry up on you.

It works pretty well. YOU MUST HAVE A PERFECTLY SMOOTH SURFACE BEFORE YOU APPLY IT. I've used stuff like this before and that filled in small scratches and less smooth areas. This stuff really didn't do that. It does look good though when it's done.

After applying the paint I cleaned up and walked away when I returned a short while later there were runs inthe paint that were not previously t gf ere. Needs better guidance on the thickness of the paint

First timer, and applied 3 cans of this to 100sqft of a mixture of panel board will mud filled in between the panel board creases. Came out better than expected. NOTE!!!! Follow @Tedshrops instructions to a tee, and you won't be disappointed. Couple of additions to Tedshrop's notes: 1. The 1st first coat is really just a quick one. Don't make it heavy. The point of this is to create something where the 2nd first coat will stick. 2. I primed the wall with a Zinsser Primer 1-2-3 and it seemed to help 3. I used 1 can per 33sqft as opposed to 1 can per 50 sqft, and it seemed to work. I ended up with 3-4 coats. Give yourself a few solid uninterrupted hours on this. 4. Markers make a difference. Sometimes, the marker has to be completely dry before you wipe. And for some reason, in my case the blue marker left a little bit of a stain. Can be cleaned with an alcohol solution to take it right off Tedshrops review again: I've seen a lot of bad reviews about the dry erase paint. I feel that most people using the product treat it like paint. It isn't. It's epoxy, or some other kind of two-part resin. I've been extremely happy with the results I've been getting with the dry erase paint. It's much cheaper than buying a board, and the end result is way more fun than a boxed in board hanging on a wall. If applied properly, it functions just as well. In the last 2 weeks, I have put up over 20 boxes of this dry erase paint in an office environment. Admittedly, my first one went up as described by many: things didn't erase properly, not smooth, etc. As i went on, I learned a bit more about this paint and and eventually was able to put up flawless whiteboards with a smooth finish. Follow these steps and you will have a nice finish, and a perfectly functioning surface. PREP: The box says you get a coverage of 7' x 7', about 50 sq. feet. This is true. I was putting up 5' x 10' boards. If you are skeptical about the product, make the area a bit smaller, and do 3 coats in stead of 2. Use a 5mm roller. DO NOT use a foam roller. They make bubbles. Make sure the wall is smooth. Sand it. Tiny bumps will catch the marker and are very noticeable when using the board. 1: Mix the paint - Shake both parts thoroughly. Both have solids that settle on the bottom. - Open both and pour small one into big one. - Close it up again, and shake it thoroughly. You can never shake too much. 2: First coat. - Load the roller up and roll upwards on the first stroke. The paint will run down the wall otherwise. - Cover the area, in the a linear fashion. - Without loading up the roller, go over the entire area again gently, to smooth out the lines left by the roller. 3: (Second) First coat. - This isn't actually the second coat, but more used to build up the first coat before it gets to the right stage of cure. - Wait about 5 - 10 minutes after you have finished the first coat, and then come back in with a semi-loaded roller. - Bring it to a slightly more crisp, even white. Won't be perfect, and won't be very thick, but try and make it even. - Check on this coat as it dries to ensure that nothing starts to run down the wall. Parts put on too thick will start to run. Just even it out with the roller if it does start. 3: Second coat. - The time that this is applied is very crucial. Epoxy-like resins gets to a certain stage where it opens up its molecules and is open to bonds with more exoxy. THIS is what makes the second coat apply thick. If done too early, the paint won't bond, and will run down/be thin. If applied too late, it will be a bit thin, and will not properly bond, making it prone to chipping. Heres how to check: - Touch your finger to a part that you've painted. If you used masking tape, touch a part on the tape. You want the surface to feel tacky, like the backside of a piece of tape, but not wet enough that it gets your finger wet. A little bit of white on your finger is okay, but too much, and it isn't quite ready for the second coat. I usually wait 25-35 minutes from when I completely finish the (2nd) first coat. - If you've touched it and the whiteboard is nicely tacky, you can roll a thick coat over it. Be sure to get full coverage, It's hard to notice when putting white overtop of white. - I recommend going over a few of times without re-loading the roller. Look at it in the light. Get rid of all the little lines and anything stuck to the surface. - Check on it as it dries to a tack, make sure there are no drips, lines, or anything else. Make it nice and even. This is your finished product. You're not painting a wall, you're BUILDING a whiteboard. take your time. Got some paint left? Do a 3rd coat, same deal. Remove any masking tape while the paint is getting to it's final tacky stage. When it's completely cured, it may crack as it comes off, leaving an ugly edge line. I've been very happy with this stuff. Once you know how to do it nicely, it works wonderfully, and gives much more of a fun, creative feel than a chalkboard does. Hope my experience with this product helps somebody, and takes some of the credit away from the negative reviews. The product is wonderful, but the nature of resins makes it a bit of an exact science to apply.

Works well but you need several coats to make a uniform surface. Don’t expect to be just one and done. It would take multiple kits to create a nice finish because it has to be applied within an hour once mixed.

Absolutely Garbage Don't buy it goes on fine but does not allow erasing easily and is not shiny. Do not waist your time. Yes we followed the direction precisely. Now we have two walls to fix.

Expensive for such a small amount. You will need two (2) coats to have the clean effect/finish you want...

Rating provided by a verified purchaser

Rating provided by a verified purchaser

It looks good and worked really well.

The can of paint is only 1/2 full of product, even with the mixing element. This is very expensive when trying to do a large area when you only have 1/2 can of paint. It also dulls the effect of magnetic paint when used together. I painted a wall with magnetic paint and covered it with dry erase paint and the magnetic board will not even hold a piece of paper with a heavy magnet. It also created a rough surface for the dry erase board. Consumers need to be made aware of this before purchasing because these are very expensive paints being that they only come in a small can.

The product worked as described it worked and I would be pleased to recommend it to anyone

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I work in a school and the science lab had black tables. The painting of these 9 tables from black to white improved the lighting of this lab and the fact that the students can write their notes on the table, then erase by the end of class...look at all the paper we are conserving! Totally the best!

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