Rated 4.0 out of 5 by 38
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by DIYChic Google is my BFF
So I ripped out the old tile in my bathroom...which the previous contractor (who messed up my tile btw) used Durarock cement boards to only find myself cleaning up a crumbled mess. I read review after review and heard from several contractors to use Hardie board for this project and i'm glad that i did. Now im a diy'er...so my first thought was how in the bleep are we going to cut through this stuff. Well..Thats why there's that good ole trial and error...(we first used a circular saw to no avail) but once I googled and found a demonstrarion on how to cut it...it was smooth sailing after that. Now if little old me could use a blade to penentrate this board and then kick to snap and get a clean break...anyone can (I wouldnt recommend this method and i only did that once. The real person doing the work just scoured and snapped it. I also used the same waterproofing method as everyone else on the seams. Although frustration started off pretty high with the board... once we googled it and watched the video...it was a breeze to work with. Would definitely use for future tiling projects.
January 19, 2016
Rated 4.0 out of 5.0 by fernbark Worked good for me
I found this product easy to work with for what I was doing. It was easy to cut with a grinder with a diamond blade. Pretty dusty though. You might have to pick through the pile to find one without a bent corner is the only real problem.
May 29, 2016
Rated 3.0 out of 5.0 by jp Good one the wall - a real pain to cut - score and snap is a myth
I think my next purchase will be wonderboard or some other cement product.
Hardieboard is nice and smooth and it doesn't have the fiber mesh that other products do. I'm not a pro, but I think this is probably a better product to have on the wall.
That said, cutting this stuff is a massive pain. The score and snap method worked for me a couple times after I scored halfway through the board. Other times it failed and it snapped in the wrong place. If you are a DIYer, I would suggest not even trying this method on the thicker board. It is not nearly as easy as they show you on the video. I was able to take it outside and cut it nicely with a hand saw, tossing some water on it as i cut so the dust is low. Another success I had cutting is using a cheap wet saw. It cuts nice and clean and straight with no dust. The downside with these methods is that they take forever.
This stuff looks nice on the walls, it is strong and not crumbly. However, the pains I had to go through to cut this stuff made it a bad experience.
April 21, 2016
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by refuge 71yr old Woman Scores With Hardiebacker
This is a triple-first for me: first time using Hardiebacker myself; first time using my circular saw; and first time scoring and snapping cement board.
The .5" 3'x5' sheets weigh 47# so a friend laid them out on the porch for me where I could clamp a sheet to the adjacent top step and use the porch floor for a workbench while standing where I wouldn't need to bend over. I stood below on a cement platform and the porch deck was the perfect height for the project.
I had taped together from cardboard a pattern for the hearth I would tile, cutting out the section for the chimney stack. I laid the pattern on the first sheet of Hardiebacker, drew around it with a pencil and made the first cut. It was easy. I turned the sheet a quarter turn by sliding it, using my Doc Marten clad feet because my arms gave out and I felt a pinch in my back when I tried turning it by hand. I reclamped the piece and made the second cut, stopping when the new cut line met the perpendicular line of the first cut.
The cutout corner came off with just a little pressure, nice and clean - except for a 5/8" bit on the reverse side on both sides of the corner. That came off with several slices from my utility knife.
That cut was all that was needed for the first sheet, but I had a dilemma - the first sheet needed to be moved indoors next to the hearth spot, and I couldn't carry or slide it. I couldn't lift it up to slide it on a side or end either. I decided to cut it in half, but didn't want to stir up a cloud of silica dust, so I decided to use my heavy duty utility knife to score it. As a visual artist and custom framer I am familiar with scoring glass and thin plexi and then snapping it over a pencil or table edge. A video demonstrated a similar procedure with Hardiebacker so that's what I did. I used a T-square to ensure a good solid straight cut, clamping it on that same step I had used to clamp the Hardiebacker. I made at least 5 passes with the blade and it was ready to snap.
Again I was faced with a problem of how to leverage the board up on its side so I could break it against my knee. The way I solved the problem was to pull the board until half of it (at the scored line) was over thin air, aligning the line with the edge of the porch (no handrails to get in the way). Then I snapped it down and it divided cleanly in two pieces, just as I had hoped it would.
A 24# half-board was light enough to lift and carry inside, but when my back winged again I just stood it up the long way so I didn't need to bend over so far to hold it, and I walked it back-and-forth on end the 15' into position next to the hearth bed. Ditto for the second half-piece.
That left one more 5'x3' sheet to cut from the other half of the pattern. It's a sure thing that if a novice like me can manipulate this cement board a regular handygal or handyman can do likewise.
The photos show the small cut (about 6"x9" - remember I worked from a pattern, not from measurements) done with the circular saw, and the clean horizontal lines of the half-boards resulting from scoring and snapping them.
July 28, 2015
Rated 1.0 out of 5.0 by JML755 worst product ever
Needed 3 sheets (3x5) to extend the area of a retiling job that used durock 30+ yrs ago. HD was out of 1/2" durock so I bought this. Scoring it is a waste of time. It will NOT break cleanly at the score whether it's a short or small piece or a long cut such as cutting a sheet in half. It took a lot of effort to get it to break even with a VERY deep score (over 1/8") and then it did NOT follow the score line. The factory edges were curled up on the sheets and I had to stand on them to get them to lay flat as I screwed them down. Very wavy material. The special screws then pulled the board away from the floor as they went in and I had to back them out, stand on the board again and reset the screws. It's taken almost an hour per board to install. The screws sometimes don't sink cleanly into the board and leave a puffy raised area of residue around them. I've had to scrape the board to level these off and vacuum so I don't end up with this stuff dragging through the thinset. I can't imagine doing a large job with this stuff. I cannot think of a single advantage to using this junk. You've been warned.
May 16, 2015
Rated 1.0 out of 5.0 by Mc To hard to snap small pieces
To hard to snap small pieces without breaking the piece that you need!!!!!
February 6, 2016
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by Adriana Doing it's job
Our tile guy recommended we get this product for the shower. He installed it with ease and since it is less than a month ago it was installed only time will tell if it continues to hold up.
September 6, 2014
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by mtarallo Awesome Product - easy to use, heavy and sturdy
I used this material for a roof on top of my pergola. I know it is not to be used for outdoor applications (as per its warranty) however I did my research and have seen much success with it here in Florida's weather. I painted the interior side with exterior concrete paint 1 part expoxy (the ceiling) and the exposed side (roof) with a siliconized roof paint. Lanco 1-Gallon Ultra Siliconizer Roof Sealer - I sealed the joints with roofing tape. A waterproof seal and a nice finished look.
September 15, 2013