0727396200226

James Hardie

Model 220022

Internet #100183556

Store SKU #180869

HardieBacker 3 ft. x 5 ft. x 1/4 in. Cement Backerboard

$11.87 / each
If you buy 30 or more
$10.68 / each
  • Easy to cut for customization
  • Lightweight
  • Protects your underlayment against moisture and mold

Frequently Bought Together

Product Overview

HardieBacker cement board is a tile underlayment made for wet areas like kitchens and bathrooms. This cement-based backer board, made of 90% Portland cement and sand, resists damage from moisture and mold and provides excellent tile adhesion. Its formulation and structure results in the ideal combination of strength, uniform composition and performance that no other backer board can provide. HardieBacker cement board was made to be easier to work with so that regardless of how you cut your board, the result is less debris. To make installation simpler, the 1/4 in. x 3 ft. x 5 ft. sheets have James Hardie's exclusive EZ Grid recessed fastener pattern to help with nail and screw placement. HardieBacker cement board's superior strength and durability delivers a solid foundation for tile jobs to help protect your work and reputation. James Hardie stands behind HardieBacker cement board with a limited lifetime product warranty.

California residents: see   Proposition 65 information

  • The Most Preferred Brand of Backer Board by Tile Installers and Contractors
  • HardieBacker 1/4 in. cement board is best used for floors and countertops
  • Made better - The 90% Portland cement and sand formulation provides a solid foundation for your tile with up to 3 times the compressive strength of competitive board
  • Installs better - cuts cleaner for tighter seam lines and less debris
  • Performs better - unique formulation delivers a product with outstanding resistance to moisture and mold
  • Score and Snap the board by making 2-3 passes with a utility knife or a carbide tipped blade, place one hand and knee firmly along the score line, then use the opposite hand to pull the board up
  • Cut HardieBacker cement board with snapper shears instead of a grinder for the same clean, sharp edges for straight seam lines while significantly reducing the amount of dust in your work environment
  • Limited lifetime product warranty

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Customer Questions & Answers

108 Questions166 Answers

Customer Questions & Answers

HardieBacker 3 ft. x 5 ft. x 1/4 in. Cement Backerboard
HardieBacker 3 ft. x 5 ft. x 1/4 in. Cement Backerboard

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4 answers

Placing Porcine floor tile onto concrete in a garage turned family room. Do I thin set the Cement Board to the cement floor of the garage?

This question is from HardieBacker 3 ft. x 5 ft. x 1/4 in. Cement Backerboard
Asked by
Roscommon, MI
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June 15, 2016
I'm assuming since the screws penetrate the cement board they will penetrate the cement garage floor as well. Is this a fact based assumption or should I used a different method?
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Asked by
Elgin, IL
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Home Improvement Profile: Professional
July 24, 2016
Answer: 
If the cement floor you are going to lay tile onto is sound and free of cracks you can use thin set to set your tile directly to it. You can add acrylic to it for a better bond of get thin set with it already in it. If you have cracks in the floor start with a "Slip Sheet" over the cracks.
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Asked by
Loveland, CO
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Home Improvement Profile: DIYer
June 17, 2016
Answer: 
I have not done a tile onto cement floor yet -- maybe this fall -- but my expectation are that the screws will be of no use. The only possible way the screws could work is predrilling holes in the cement floor -- one big pain.
So my expectations are, that the thin-set between the cement floor and Hardiebacker is mandatory. but how do you get the board to lay FLAT.
Note, the term Cement Backer Board is
Read More
I have not done a tile onto cement floor yet -- maybe this fall -- but my expectation are that the screws will be of no use. The only possible way the screws could work is predrilling holes in the cement floor -- one big pain.
So my expectations are, that the thin-set between the cement floor and Hardiebacker is mandatory. but how do you get the board to lay FLAT.
Note, the term Cement Backer Board is a misnomer -- they are not solid like cement and are reinforced with some sort of fibers.
Do some research -- Google -- I am reading that one should not even use cement backerboards over concrete floors.
Read Less
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June 17, 2016
Answer: 
Sorry, we do not have any approved methods to attach the Backer to a concrete floor. Our product is only approved and warranted over wood sub floors.
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Asked by
Pittsburgh, PA
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Home Improvement Profile: Professional
June 16, 2016
Answer: 
Different method. If the converted garage floor slab doesn't have cracks in it, you can lay tile right over it. If it has minor cracks, you should use an isolation membrane, not a cement-board underlayment, underneath the tile. You might want to look into Schluter Ditra.
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Example: I have looked at the manual and can't figure out what I did wrong.
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Answers (4)

Asked by
Atlanta, Gergoria
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August 10, 2016
Answer: 
Thank you for your recent inquiry with The Home Depot. Yes if you are not doing a direct to stud shower wall , You would have to use drywall . You can use 1/2" to 1" for the wall thickness of the drywall. We appreciate your business and look forward to serving you in the future. Thank you for shopping Home Depot.
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June 13, 2016
Answer: 
Generally our Hardie Backer 500 is attached directly to the framing with or without a weather resistive barrier behind it depending on if your local building codes require it.
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Asked by
Pittsburgh, PA
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June 10, 2016
Answer: 
A typical shower wall installation will require 0.42-inch (1 cm) thickness HardieBacker 500, not this product, which is too thin. Typically, the walls will be stripped to the studs, and then covered with stapled 4-mil plastic sheeting. Down at the bottom of the shower, where the wall meets the shower pan, you will need 2 x 8 or, better, 2 x 10 blocking between the studs. If you are installing Read More
A typical shower wall installation will require 0.42-inch (1 cm) thickness HardieBacker 500, not this product, which is too thin. Typically, the walls will be stripped to the studs, and then covered with stapled 4-mil plastic sheeting. Down at the bottom of the shower, where the wall meets the shower pan, you will need 2 x 8 or, better, 2 x 10 blocking between the studs. If you are installing HardieBacker 500 for a tiled tub surround, you do not need to put blocking between the studs where the wall meets the tub. If you instead choose to use 1/4" HardieBacker, this stuff, your wall will not be as sturdy and you will need blocking between the studs.
I hope this basic information helps, but putting in a tiled tub surround or building a shower is a complicated DIY project and you will typically need to read about the entire process from start to finish in a how-to book. There are multiple ways to do it successfully -- contractors typically learn one approach and stay with it for years, so opinions differ. There are many videos online of varying quality detailing how to build a shower stall and tub surround. You would do better starting off with a book from a reputable publisher, because then you will be in a better position to judge which videos are useful and which are not. Good luck! Read Less
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Asked by
Loveland, CO
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June 10, 2016
Answer: 
I used the 1/2 inch Hardiebacker for my shower walls in place of any drywall. that is why they make the thicker version. Of course, you will not be able to use as many screws as you would for a floor install. But be sure to add the extra 2x4 or 2x6 blocks in your wall at all the Hardiebacker joints so you can screw down all the edges. If the install is on an outside wall, be sure to add as much Read More
I used the 1/2 inch Hardiebacker for my shower walls in place of any drywall. that is why they make the thicker version. Of course, you will not be able to use as many screws as you would for a floor install. But be sure to add the extra 2x4 or 2x6 blocks in your wall at all the Hardiebacker joints so you can screw down all the edges. If the install is on an outside wall, be sure to add as much insulation in the wall as you can -- think about form boards -- to keep the shower warm ;-) Read Less
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4 answers

Can i use this to make a shower pan?

This question is from HardieBacker 3 ft. x 5 ft. x 1/4 in. Cement Backerboard
Asked by
long beach, ny
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May 12, 2016
How do I use this to make a shower pan? plywood > thinset > hardiebacker > thinset> liner > thinset > tile?
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Answers (4)

June 6, 2016
Answer: 
Absolutely NOT. WHY EVEN ASK THAT QUESTION. PERHAPS YOU MAY BE CONSIDERING MAKING A SHOWER PAN MOLD. (WHICH YOU SHOULD NEVER EVER DO WITH BACKER BOARD) PLEASE HIRE A PROFESSIONAL.
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May 16, 2016
Answer: 
Sorry, we do not have any recommendation on using our product to make a shower pan.
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Asked by
Loveland, CO
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Home Improvement Profile: DIYer
May 14, 2016
Answer: 
No, No, No, Hardiebacker is for flat tile surfaces and your shower pan needs to be slopped to drain.
Google "how to make a shower pan".
Using your shorthand it is more like:
plywood>deck-mud>liner>deck-mud>thinset>tile
Note, deck-mud is a special type of concrete with no gravel; it will end up quite thick and thicker at the outer edges.
I forget what drain slope you want (1/4 inch per foot seems
Read More
No, No, No, Hardiebacker is for flat tile surfaces and your shower pan needs to be slopped to drain.
Google "how to make a shower pan".
Using your shorthand it is more like:
plywood>deck-mud>liner>deck-mud>thinset>tile
Note, deck-mud is a special type of concrete with no gravel; it will end up quite thick and thicker at the outer edges.
I forget what drain slope you want (1/4 inch per foot seems right), slopping to the three-way drain.
Read Less
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Asked by
Pittsburgh, PA
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May 13, 2016
Answer: 
Hi, aw. The short answer is that you can't use this to make a shower pan. Hardiebacker will not hold up in any shower pan. This product can be used for shower walls.
A traditional shower pan is built up over a plywood subfloor out of deck mud and a vinyl liner. The building sequence is complicated and requires significant study or, far better, real-world training before you try it. Oatey is a
Read More
Hi, aw. The short answer is that you can't use this to make a shower pan. Hardiebacker will not hold up in any shower pan. This product can be used for shower walls.
A traditional shower pan is built up over a plywood subfloor out of deck mud and a vinyl liner. The building sequence is complicated and requires significant study or, far better, real-world training before you try it. Oatey is a highly-respected maker of products related to these pans (and general plumbing supplies). This is a link to their YouTube video on how to build a traditional mud pan. You will need much more information if you go ahead and try to build such a pan, and there are a few non-Oatey products that can help you greatly in certain parts of your installation, but this video should give you a basic idea of the process. Good luck!
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3 answers

Can backer board be installed on one layer of linoleum that is attached to the plywood subfloor?

This question is from HardieBacker 3 ft. x 5 ft. x 1/4 in. Cement Backerboard
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August 8, 2016
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August 10, 2016
Answer: 
Yes and no. It depends on what is underneath it. It is a case by case proposition.
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Asked by
Pittsburgh, PA
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August 10, 2016
Answer: 
I know it's a lot of work, but you need to pull up the the linoleum/resilient flooring and whatever backer it's probably attached to and get down to the plywood subfloor to start your tile installation. If you try to lay tile on a cement board laid over a layer (or two) of resilient flooring the installation will most likely fail prematurely. The reasons for this are complicated, but can be uneasily Read More
I know it's a lot of work, but you need to pull up the the linoleum/resilient flooring and whatever backer it's probably attached to and get down to the plywood subfloor to start your tile installation. If you try to lay tile on a cement board laid over a layer (or two) of resilient flooring the installation will most likely fail prematurely. The reasons for this are complicated, but can be uneasily summed up by saying that a resilient-flooring covered floor is not a stable enough substrate.
The way your floor will probably fail is insidious. The grout will start cracking a bit a few months after the installation, and you'll convince yourself you can live with that. Then the first tile will crack after someone drops something on it, and you'll convince yourself it was a very hard knock for that to happen, and the floor is fine, honest it is. Then the first tile will crack as you walk on it, until finally, in a few years, you'll have a total mess of a spiderwebbed, wobbly, shifting tile floor.
It may last one year, it may last five years, it may even get to ten years. But the floor will fail, and fail badly. Read Less
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August 9, 2016
Answer: 
No, you would want to remove the linoleum first.
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Customer Reviews

Rated 4.5 out of 5 by 35 reviewers.
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by Good backer board I've used Hardie board on two different bathrooms and haven't had any problems with it. I always use their screws as well. It cuts fairly easily and provides a great platform to tile on. July 17, 2016
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by BE SURE AND WET IT Most def wet the Hardi surface before install. Tiled over concrete directly first, so had all the time in the world before the thinset mortar set up. Then went upstairs over plywood subfloor and installed this Hardi board – wow even when wetting the board first – you have little time to set tile before it sucks the moisture out of the thinset. Really like the size – 2 sheets do the typical 6x6 bathroom. Tiled a counter top and 1 sheet was perfect. I found my favorite tool, a Bosch oscillating saw will easily make cutouts for toilet flanges, heat registers, sinks or other tough cuts with minimal dust creation. Use the carbide blade, at half speed, do it outside with a box fan and wear a mask. Speaking of setting toilets – use the Danco Perfect seal hybrid wax/rubber seal – you will be glad you did. April 15, 2016
Rated 4.0 out of 5.0 by Good Product, Poor Service The hardiebacker board has done it's job. The problem was the Monroeville store that I ordered and paid for online. I ordered 6 hours before I came to the store and got confirmation back it was ready. I came to pick up was directed to customer service and was told in the front, took 10 minutes to locate my order at customer service. We went over to get order and not done so I had to take off shelf and load. I also then loaded on truck, I did get a little help. Reason I did on line I had short window to get and it is my fault. This has happened before here so shame on them for 1st time, shame on me for 2nd and 3rd time. The product is good though. August 9, 2016
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by perfect for the job The thickness of the product and ease of handling made tit perfect for the job. August 10, 2016
Rated 4.0 out of 5.0 by floor install it was light weight and easy to cut with the right saw blade and was easy to line up with the size of material August 23, 2016
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by Great backer board This backer board is really well made....lays down flat & easy to use. Hubby watched the video at how to cut this board & you score & snap to break apart. The backer board screws go in nicely except when you get to close to the corners they split apart. June 14, 2016
Rated 2.0 out of 5.0 by Used it once; never again I'll be contrarian to the rave reviews of this product. It does a have some good points: It is easy to cut and install. It's less messy to work with than real cement board. That's about it for the upsides. Real cement board, like Durock, is superior in every other way. The main problem I had with the Hardie product is that thinset simply does not stick to it very well. Follow the directions, and you'll note they have a lot to say about cleaning and pre-moistening it, which indicates to me that there is a problem. I found it was difficult to get the thinset to stick well when trying to spread it on this board. I found it necessary to really wet the board to get anything near acceptable spreading results. It does not have the pores to grab the thinset like real cement board does. It is also not nearly as rigid, which is bad. Why pay more for a board that is made from paper, among cement and other things, when you can get 100% real cement board for less? June 14, 2016
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by great board used this tile for the 1st time under a marble floor about 10 years ago. Floor still looks great with no cracks at all even with 4 kids dropping things on it. 1/4 size is great so there isn't a big height difference between floors. I'll never go back to regular rockboard. February 5, 2016
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