Model # 258285

Internet #202828575

Rust-Oleum Transformations 70 oz. Charcoal Large Countertop Kit

Rust-Oleum Transformations

70 oz. Charcoal Large Countertop Kit

  • Simple and easy installation
  • Silicone epoxy formula that won't yellow
  • Resistance to stains and water
$23067 /each
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Frequently Bought Together

Product Overview

Use Rust-Oleum Transformations 70 oz. Charcoal Large Countertop Kit to replace your dirty, dingy or dated countertops with the look of granite without the cost and mess of a total replacement. The 1 qt. Charcoal Large Countertop Kit from Rust-Oleum Transformations makes it so easy, anyone can do it. With quick and hassle-free application, you can completely transform the look of your countertops in a single weekend to reveal an elegant, updated style.

California residents: see   Proposition 65 information

  • Suitable for kitchen and bathroom, or any other countertop in your home
  • Covers up to 50 sq. ft.
  • Silicone epoxy formula will not yellow
  • Quick and simple application with no messy demolition, saving time and money
  • Superior household stain and water resistance
  • Dries to touch minimum 12 hours
  • Clean up with soap and water
  • Actual paint colors may vary from on-screen and printer representations
  • Online Price includes Paint Care fee in the following states: CA, CO, CT, MN, OR, RI, VT
  • Click here to use our paint calculator and estimate how much paint you need to complete your project

Info & Guides

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Container Size
70 OZ-Ounce
Coverage Area (sq. ft.)


Application Method
Coating Product Category
Color Family
Dry to touch (min.)
Paint & Primer in One
Paint/Stain Base Material
Paint/Stain Clean Up
Soap & Water
Paint/Stain Key Features
Mildew Resistant
Paint/Stain/Waterproofer Product Type
Cabinet & Countertop
Substrate/Surface Use Type
Time before recoating (hours)

Warranty / Certifications

Manufacturer Warranty
Satisfaction Guaranteed

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Customer Questions & Answers

do I have to remove the sink?

Asked by: Anonymous
No, it's not necessary to remove the sink. Tape around it.
Answered by: kharndt
Date published: 2017-07-23

Before using Rust-Oleum® Countertop Transformations, how does the countertop have to be prepped?

Asked by: Anonymous
Before starting, you do have to fill in any chips in the counter, or any gaps between the counter and backsplash, using an epoxy plumbers putty. Once it dries, you then sand all surfaces of the counter with the included diamond embedded sanding block, until the surfaces have fine scratches all over them. After vacuuming the surface and cleaning thoroughly, you are then ready to apply the adhesive and the color chips. It is actually very simple, but is messy.
Answered by: Anonymous
Date published: 2017-07-23

We had a fire and don't have much money for countertops. We were thinking of using this on top of counter's made of plywood. Will that work?

Asked by: Anonymous
I think it would work, although I would make sure to sand the plywood thoroughly, fill in any dents with plumbers epoxy putty, and then seal with something like Kilz, before doing the sanding step. Sand just enough to score the Kilz layer. Keep in mind that the epoxy is definitely not a filler, so the edges of your counter will end up with a sharp 90 degree angle instead of a rounded edge like you would see on a counter top. I still think it would turn out OK as the finished product looks amazing.
Answered by: Anonymous
Date published: 2017-03-01

Does this product work on tile countertops?

The product is Countertop Transformations. The tiles are not smooth ceramic tiles. They appear to look like stone, but it is not stone.
Asked by: Anonymous
Yes, it will cover tiles but may not be smooth.
Answered by: Stephie
Date published: 2017-04-23
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Customer Reviews

70 oz. Charcoal Large Countertop Kit is rated 4.3 out of 5 by 185.
Rated 2 out of 5 by from After finishing the cabinet transformations kit I decided to try the countertop one. These kits a... After finishing the cabinet transformations kit I decided to try the countertop one. These kits are not the same. Different paint, different process and different results. I have a 47 sq ft counter so I bought the kit that covers 50 sq ft. This stuff does not stick like it should. Now as for prep work, I used a belt sander, then a fine grit electric sander and then the diamond pad included with the kit. And the stuff still didn’t stick very well. I had 30 yr old laminate counters. They had a wood pattern that had large bleach spots that needed to be covered and since I’m going to be selling in a couple years I didn’t want to spend the money on replacing everything in the kitchen. However, if you want it to work I would highly recommend a few things: 1. Base coat. I was going from a very light color to a very dark color. Due to how thin the base coat is I can still see the old color thru it (see pic). Note I was using the Onyx kit which is solid black for the base coat. If you are going with a similar color this should not be as noticeable. Buy a kit or two larger than what you need. Do a base coat and let it dry, then do another full coat, filing in all the areas that are thin right before adding the chips. Cover every square inch with chips. These are the actual countertop surface, not just for added color. The instructions say to apply a thick coat of adhesive, but it just doesn’t stick, so its impossible to apply it thick. You can watch it beading up as it dries. It would be nice if they sold just the adhesive part separate, instead of buying all the other accessories. A dark primer might be an option too but I’m not sure how compatible the adhesive base coat would be with primer. For sure not latex based but maybe acrylic or something else. 2. Working sections. If you have to do this alone, you will see the transitions between sections. I’m not sure why, but no matter what I did, I can see where I stopped and started each section. Grab a buddy if you can. Neither taping off a straight line nor over-lapping worked. Work fast as this stuff dries too quickly. If you have a natural seam like a corner or separate section, do the smaller ones first to see how it works. Don’t forget edges along the stove, refrigerator and ends that will be slightly visible. I didn’t color chip the edges near the stove or fridge due to the size of the gap. 3. Color Chips… Tape off everything! If you can wall-off the room, do so because its very dusty. Wear a mask! If you can remove appliances, do. While those things may not stick to the adhesive very well, they sure do stick to everything else because they are statically charged. Including the refrigerator, walls, floor, etc. I had drop clothes everywhere (use plastic so you can just roll them up and throw them away). But no matter what, those darn things will stick to everything. Your shoes, your socks, everything. They will fall down in the cracks where you removed the caulking behind the countertop. You’ll find them in your pots and pans. You’ll find them for weeks. Even wearing a high end paint mask I had color streaks when blowing my nose for days due to all the dust in the house. You will need to empty your shop vac after each pass of vacuuming those things up. They are quite heavy in bulk and will clog the vacuum. The chip spreader worked for about 30 seconds. It kept jamming. Eventually I just used my hand and threw them around. The chip spreader shoots about a 4 ft wide pattern so no matter what you’re aiming at, they will go everywhere else. Everywhere….. Also I would recommend just dumping the drop clothes on the floor after vacuuming the counters and put fresh ones down when you start the sanding and top coat. Otherwise you’ll stir up dust. 4. Sanding. This is the worst part of the entire thing. And I’m not talking about the prep sanding. I’m talking about the post chip sanding. Once you scrape them down, fix thin spots, repair areas where they didn’t stick, missed corners etc, you then have to sand them smooth. The sample they provide feels like a piece of foam or cork. It doesn’t feel anything like the hard texture of the counter tops. However this is your goal in a perfect world. After a couple hours I finally gave up. I left the back splashes fairly course as I don’t touch them. I focused on the main working surface and even after hours they were still fairly textured. Consider how you use your counters to determine how much effort to focus. I don’t let food touch them, so really I just need a surface for cutting boards, pots, pans, etc. If you cut or roll out dough on your counters, skip this kit. If you’re OCD about crumbs, keep sanding. The texture will drastically affect how easy it is to wipe it down during cleaning. 5. Top coat. I did two passes of top coat and I still found spots that seemed thin. It’s hard to see it since its textured and very shiny. Use good lighting and check from different angles. Keep in mind you only have 4 hours to work with the top coat so don’t wait until the next day to find touch up spots. The top coat will show brush/roller streaks so after applying a thick coat, take your time to do a smooth finishing coat. I had lots leftover, unlike the base coat that didn’t have enough. 6. Durability. After two weeks of letting it cure, I still occasionally wipe up color chips when wiping down the counter. I also had some water drops that sat for an extended period of time and the counter started to flake. I would recommend you wipe up any spills immediately and don’t slide anything around as any uneven surface may catch and chip. Overall Summary. From the next room if I squint it looks great. A bit too shiny in my opinion and it clearly has a textured finish to it, but for a drastic color change it really changes the look of the room. However, up close you can see thru it so it looks like painted cork instead of granite. If you don’t have another option, this will due for a temporary refresh, but for long term I would not recommend this unless your countertops are completely trashed like mine were and can’t be replaced due to cost.
Date published: 2017-05-30
Rated 4 out of 5 by from I am very pleased with the outcome of my countertops. It was an easy, but messy process. I wish... I am very pleased with the outcome of my countertops. It was an easy, but messy process. I wish I could have practiced before I did the actual countertop. There were a few small spots that don't look great, but my countertops look 100 times better
Date published: 2017-02-21
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Amazing!! This product was everything I wanted it to be! I would recommend this for anyone who wants to update their countertops, that doesn't want to replace them. FIVE STARS!!
Date published: 2017-03-08
Rated 4 out of 5 by from This product is by far the best countertop painting option available. The system uses a base coat... This product is by far the best countertop painting option available. The system uses a base coat, color chips, and a clear 2 part epoxy. This is not for the beginner DIYer. The product can be unforgiving. I’ll elaborate a bit. First, the base coat MUST be applied without any skippers (spots you can see through from dry rolling) or roller edges (lines left from a wet edge of the roller) and runs or drips have to be fixed. You won’t see any streaks. Focus on making the surface smooth. If you bump a spot you can apply additional base coat and “throw” color chips at it to get them to stick. However, you still might see an inconsistency if you don’t take your time. The color chips WILL end up everywhere. Just expect it and move on. Nothing a shop vac won’t fix later. If you have less than 30% humidity fire up a humidifier at least a day in advance before you even start to prep. Here’s a quick break down of the process. My timeline was a few hours prep, an hour or so for base / color chips, about 24 hours before I sanded the chips, then cleanup etc. patched my tape / plastic, then another hour or so for the top coat. 48 hours later I covered the counter with a light drop cloth and installed a backsplash and new sink. Prep work, Clean, Sand, tape, light up the area, Base, color chip, base, color chip, base color chip, wait 12 hours, sand, vacuum, clean, sweep and vacuum, dust house, vacuum dog hair, take kids to grandparents, mix 2 part topcoat, take your time and roll / brush your counters wait 2 days before light use. Here are my tips that I learned throughout the process: Watch the DVD twice. There are pointers and tips they mention that they don’t really highlight. CLEAN the counters. If you don’t remove any residue from oil, etc. it will clog up your sanding sponge. You can buy these at your local home store. Sand the counters down to remove any shine. Lighting is key, otherwise you can’t see the imperfections that will appear when dry and during different times of the day. Set a timer for 10 minutes before you start to apply your base coat. Once it starts to dry you have to reapply. Don’t forget to use the “wetter” provided. But don’t go crazy or it will make the base too thin and you will see through it. Attention to detail - don’t rush even though you feel pressed for time. Get a friend to spread the chips if you can. Pay attention to where you put your roller tray so you don’t end up putting color chips in it when you apply. You will have way more than enough color chips. Go crazy here. Load them up so you can’t see one square centimeter of base coat. What doesn’t stick will get vacuumed up later. Use the hand sanding sponges provided don’t bother with a sander. I contacted support and they said I could try a 60 / 80 grit and tried both. In the end you aren’t saving any time and it’s really not as much work as it looks. If you have a large area (say around 50 square feet) buy a second smaller kit. You can NOT reuse this stuff so having another can of top coat, a second sanding sponge, and additional basecoat could really save you if you need to go back and fix anything either during or after the process. If I had to do it again I’d have a backup kit standing by but I didn’t have great lighting either so if you do maybe you can keep from needing to go back and fix something. Hope this wordy review helps someone else out there.
Date published: 2016-11-30
Rated 4 out of 5 by from This is a great alternative to buying new countertops. My wife and I resurfaced our old laminate ... This is a great alternative to buying new countertops. My wife and I resurfaced our old laminate counters about 2 weeks ago and we love the results. Up close you can tell that they aren't not real stone but they are still durable and beautiful. Make sure you read all of the instructions and watch the DVD. Take your time and the results will be worth it.
Date published: 2017-01-31
Rated 4 out of 5 by from Looks great, however was a little difficult to work with and it came with way more chips than nec... Looks great, however was a little difficult to work with and it came with way more chips than necessary. I covered approx 20 sq ft of countertop and used about 3/4 of the basecoat and only about half of the topcoat. Only needed 1/3 of the paint chips and there was so many of them that never landed on the countertop! My only piece of advice, other than read the directions very carefully, do the basecoat and chips in 10 sq. ft. sections, the basecoat dries so fast even in >50% humidity and temperature around 66. You don't have to worry about lap lines in the basecoat as it gets completely covered in chips and sanded down afterwards.
Date published: 2016-12-10
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Awesome product! Thrills with the results! This countertop kit was easy to use and worked exactly as described. We couldn't be any happier with the results and receive many compliments on the transformation. Thank you!
Date published: 2016-09-08
Rated 4 out of 5 by from Easy to apply. Some rough spots I think this is totally worth the money. It turned our green laminate counter-tops to a much more modern look for a great price. Granted I have only been using them for about three weeks and they have held up great. I hope they give me two years till we can get new ones! I recommend saving the extra top coat because there were some patches that thinned out a bit after it dried that I would have liked to reapply for more durability. I also I did a 32 Sq. Ft kitchen with a large kit ( supposed to cover 50) and used all of the base coat. So if you are on the fence with size I would buy an extra kit to make sure you have enough base coat.
Date published: 2014-03-11
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