Rated 3.5 out of 5 by 69
Rated 4.0 out of 5.0 by oldned Better than the original motor
Roof vent motors all fail eventually. It's a tough environment and the motor bearings usually seize up. I have two R26 power vents on the roof. My history is that the first original motor burned out after 2 years, replaced by another under warranty. The replacement motor seized up after 9 more years. So then I bought a Master Flow motor from Home Depot. I noticed this was a PSC motor with a capacitor, using less watts and lower current for same output, and it it still running smoothly after 4 years. It was also quieter compared to my other vent which still had its original motor. Now the original motor in the second vent has seized up after 15 years, so I have no hesitation in buying another MasterFlow from Home Depot for this. I replaced the motors from inside the attic, a little hassle, but not difficult.
July 5, 2015
Rated 2.0 out of 5.0 by McFlubbin Consider it a consumable
Razor blades are designed to wear out after a certain number of uses and so too are these motors. I recently purchased a new residence and the seller had two of these motors on hand to replace the two failed ones up in the attic.
I placed a thermo probe in the attic prior to replacement - temp reached a high of 141 deg F. After replacement we are down to 102 deg F.
As others have said, you need 2x 7/16 wrenches and an allen wrench (mine required 5/32 - odd). The bolt/nut removal for the housing is easiest when you have one socket drive and one closed end wrench.
The fan is fairly loud when running but I can't hear it once my attic access door is closed.
May 31, 2012
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by FeelingburntinLongBeach FAN-tastic
I purchased the PR2-HI22 in 4/8/2001 and installed a lighted inline switch in the closet to turn the unit off in the winter. The light install is attached to the dead side of the wire/switch, so when switched on there is a light indicator. I have not replaced the motor but purchased this replacement motor, just in case it is needed. I feel most who have had issues set the trip level too low which results in higher fan operation. Although, if you follow the instructions it recommends 105° F, I set the thermostat to 118° F. I also did my best to make sure the thermostat gets plenty of air flow when the motor is operating. Hope this information will assist those who have had issues.
June 4, 2013
Rated 4.0 out of 5.0 by Ozzie Working just fine, so far!
I am writing this review only a few weeks after I installed two of these attic fan motors. I say that because I really don't know of the quality yet but the two motors have been working flawlessly through some of Georgia's hottest temps so far. I originally had two attic fans installed about 10 years ago. Those motors both stopped working this year. I think one of the problems that caused the original motors to go out was the fact that the original installer only cut half a hole out of my roof, thereby reducing the air flow and I would assume decreasing time on the motors. I had to end up cutting the holes out and the replacement took a few hours each. I broke it up two different mornings because the attic got so hot.
I have seen other reviews that say that these motors are cheap and unreliable. I don't know. I hope that they last as long as the other motors did. So far I am really pleased with them and I can tell a huge difference in the temperature inside my house on a hot summer day.
July 7, 2015
Rated 4.0 out of 5.0 by DoctorG These motors require maintenance every 2-3 years.
Have used this roof vent system for 30 years, replaced a couple of times when the plastic dome, not the metal one deteriorated in TX sun. The motor has only bronze sleeve bearings that require periodic cleaning and lubrication. Have looked for, but never found a ball bearing motor for this application. To cut down on dust entering the shaft end of the motor, cut a 2 inch diameter leather or rubber circle, punch a 7/16 hole in the center and slip over the shaft between the motor and fan. One can get 15-20 years out of a motor with some regular care and lubrication. The new motor is a capacitor run motor drawing 1.6 amp instead of 3-4 amps. A motor with sealed ball bearing and thrust bearing would solve the problem.
July 1, 2012
Rated 4.0 out of 5.0 by dmanuel The Big Picture
In looking over the other comments, I want to stress my observations are merely my own opinion. As to the motor replacement frequency, I can only say my previous replacement, the motor lasted four years. I cannot say if this is good or bad. I suppose it depends upon its operating environment. In very hot climates, the motor is subjected to hours of continuous duty in adverse temperatures. I did an autopsy on the failed unit and indeed the culprit is the bearings. It appears the grease does not stay in contact with the actual bearings, but maybe slung out during operation.
As someone pointed out, there is no thermostat in the box. I don’t think there is supposed to be. They are usually accessories separate from the motor (I used the one I already had).
I cannot address the need for instruction sheets, but replacement, for me was quick and straight forward. This is what I did.
1) Pull the circuit breaker (verify cold at the unit with a volt meter)
2) Remove wire nuts and release wires connecting old motor to house electrical system (make a note of where each wire goes so you can replicate their position during reinstallation)
3) Take 1/8” Allen Wrench, loosen nut holding the fan blade to the motor shaft and slide fan blade off (there is no need to remove fan from housing when replacing motor)
4) Carefully loosen two of the three collar nuts/bolts (I used 7/16” wrenches) holding fan centered in the housing. You need only loose two enough you can slide the motor out of the housing – don’t drop it).
5) Using the new motor, you reverse the process.
6) Slide the new motor into place in the support collar, but only snug the bolts – don’t tighten – in case you need to adjust its position/orientation.
7) Slide the fan blade back onto the shaft and tighten the Allen nut (note: the nut faces the flat portion of the shaft).
8) Spin the blade by hand, ensuring it rotates freely, does not touch any portion of the housing and is centered in the collar and while ensuring the motor is evenly distributed – not cockeyed- in the collar. The fan/motor insertion should position the fan at a distance to ensure the fan pulls hot air and ejects it in a balanced quantity. Now tighten the supporting bolts
9) Properly reconnect and secure the electrical connections. Restore electrical power, adjust thermostat,
10) Bask in the glory of a job well done.
March 18, 2012
Rated 1.0 out of 5.0 by unhappy They don't last
I love reading all these five-star reviews from people who _just_ installed this. I have bought six of these over an 11 year period. You do the math about their reliability.
They invariably die on the hottest day of the year. Climbing into a scorching attic to replace the motor (again) is not my idea of a good time. I wish somebody offered a high-quality, American-made alternative. I would gladly pay twice as much for something that would last 10 years.
July 17, 2012
Rated 5.0 out of 5.0 by g404 Easy Installation
After a few tests I found my attic vent motor to be faulty. An exact replacement was available at my local Home Depot. The motor is easy to replace with only a few tools.
September 28, 2015