Customer Reviews for DANCO HydroSeat Stainless Steel Toilet Flange Repair

Total garbage! Buy something else. No matter what I do the toilet still wobbles. The flange “fixer” is tight on the floor, the flange nuts are as tight as I dare tighten them. The toilet sits funny front to back. Typical home depot

1. Turn off the water supply to the toilet. 2. Flush the toilet to drain any remaining water. 3. Remove the old toilet and flange from the floor. 4. Clean the area around the toilet flange. 5. Install the new DANCO toilet flange. 6. Install the new toilet flange bolts and nuts. 7. Install toilet back in its original position on the floor. 8. Turn on the water supply to the toilet. 9. Flush the toilet to test the new toilet flange.

I have a 50 year old flange that the bolt slots were a little sketchy looking, and I needed to raise it a bit because of new flooring over old flooring. It's perfect for that, I guess, and installation isn't complicated if you think it through. The box has the phrase "Fixes broken or damaged flanges" and that's just not true. The installation instructions state "if floor flange is damaged, replace." I mean, it can't be both. Step 4 of the directions just doesn't make any sense.

Had a uneven toilet flange in unison with two layers of flooring. Couldn’t get the toilet to seat with larger wax rings and other non wax seals. Made sure the Danco was level, pre drilled my holes slowly tightened it down and it’s solid. No leaks. Make sure your wax ring is compressed firmly into the new flange. You may need a regular wax ring or the larger one depending on floor height. I would recommend this product to anyone.

I have installed one in both of my bathrooms. The first one had a broken flange and the second one was fine but I was installing a new toilet so I figured I would install one of these to avoid having that flange break in the future. The rubber sleeve that is attached ensures that there is no leakage. I used a wax free gasket with both, instead of a wax ring, in both bathrooms and have not had any issues, and the first one I installed about 6 years ago.

I pulled a toilet to replace, to find a 3" cast iron pipe flared out to 5", and the previous owner made a real mess of everything. This solved my problem. Follow the instructions. Some youtube videos by "experts" are wrong.

Saved a lot of money DIY but you do need to be "handy" and use common sense. If you screw it up, it will cost you $$$$ to find a plumber. I was fortunate. Should have taken before and after pictures but was concentrated on getting the job done. Family said "something smelly is leaking in cellar after toilet flushed." Sure enough, there was a leak. After doing some research, I bought this DANCO Kit. After prep, removed toilet. 60 year old 4" cast iron flange rusted out. Wax ring kinda no good either. Pipe looked good though. Opted for DANCO Kit instead of OTAY 4" Twist-n-Seal because rotted flange was mostly even with floor. PVC flange might have been too high. Scraped and cleaned area, put down standard wax ring, and put down Danco flange. Screw ears fit just outside old flange onto subfloor. Fours screws into clean and dry wood and done. Put toilet back and test flush....several times.....and no leaks. Everyone happy, including my wallet. Great product but your mileage may vary. Again, I was fortunate enough to feel confidant to DIY. Just glad I found this alternate repair product.

Fantastic product, simple to use. I made 1 small modification while installing it, worked super.

Easy to install, great product. Installed for 2 toilets with broken PVC flanges

This flange is a great repair for a broken pvc , abs , or iron flange. I fits over the old flange and is easy to line up. The only difficult part was drilling 4 new holes through the standoff’s into the ceramic tile. If you don’t have to do that it’s a quick fix. Also you will need a new wax ring as it does not come with one. ( if drilling through ceramic, remember to use water in the hole to cool and lubricate the drill.

This product was used to fix a plastic flange that cracked where the bolts are located. It was unbelievably easy to use and took all of 30 seconds to install the toilet once I had this set on top of the wax ring. Thank you for inventing this product...it saved me so much time and I was able to cancel the service call I had scheduled with a plumber to repair the broken flange.

the hydroseat toilet flange is a great replacement for an old cast iron flange. The instructions were simple and it fit over the existing sewer line as advertised. the only revision was that I needed to use longer screws than the provided 1" screws to anchor the flange as they had to go through the underlayment and into the structural subfloor for a positive attachment

This is an unbelievable solution to the thorny problem of a broken toilet flange! Way to go, Danco! It bolts down over the flange with four screws, for which you will need to drill a lead hole 7/64 inch, just outside of your existing flange. Use a reinforced wax ring underneath. If the top of your flange is flush with the floor and higher, use standard 1". Use oversized 1.25" ring if the top is recessed below the height of the floor. I sealed the bolt slots and screw recesses on my existing flange with lifetime warranty 100% silicone to ensure a tight seal when the ring is pressed down by the HydroSeat. The outlet cone on the bottom of the toilet presses into and is sealed by the large rubber gasket on the top. The one challenge for this device is if the floor is uneven. My toilet rocked when set in place, so I put a fat ring of the 100% silicone caulk at the outer edge of the black gasket on top to insure a tight fit even though the plane of of the floor and the top of the HS were not parallel. Worked like a charm. My installation required drilling through 1/4 inch tile and into a poured concrete bed underneath that. Held my drill firmly with both hands against my leg while starting the hole because you cannot use a center punch on ceramic tile. Challenging. You probably cannot get a 7/64 inch masonry drill. I should have used a 1/8 inch masonry drill bit but did not have one, so drilled 1/4 through the tile and used as standard steel drill into the somewhat soft concrete bed. If you use a 1/8 drill, you may need to upsize the screws, flat head wood screws or pan head sheet metal will work fine. I accidentally pushed the 1/4 inch masonry bit too deep on one hole and solved that problem with a screw and plastic anchor designed for sheet rock and a 1/4 inch hole. Glue the anchor in with just a small ring of 2 part epoxy, just enough to keep it from twisting while inserting the screw. Worked like a charm. The other beautiful thing about this solution is that the wax ring installation is put in place by the HS, the toilet hold down bolts are held perfectly in place. With the old ring installation, you had to stick the wax on the bottom of the toilet, pick up the beast and line it perfectly without being able to see, and somehow align the toilet over the bolts which are flopping around. 9/10 times you missed the proper alignment, crushed the ring in the wrong places, and had to start over.

Oh, the joys home plumbing repair. The main toilet flange was FUBAR, not actually attached to the floor (bronze ring, slid over a lead "bend", with the rim of the "bend" flared to the ring, but the lead "bend" was warped and cracked and broken) I de-flared the "bend", removed the ring, cleaned up the outside of the "bend", reinstalled the flange, re-flared the "bend", installed a wax ring, and bolted on a flange repair kit. Full scrub on the toilet, and it is now ready to reinstall. Like other reviewers, I would have prefered that the screws be a bit larger, but overall, good repair part.

The bolt mounting area on my old toilet flange had totally disintegrated, and I looked at a lot of different products to see what would work best in my situation. The reason I chose this kit was because of how it has mounting tabs, or what you could call legs, that extend out from the flange. I have a concrete floor and the concrete under the original flange was pretty rough, and these tabs extended out where the concrete was still somewhat smooth. When I first saw this kit on the store shelf, I didn’t think it looked strong enough, but when I pulled it out it felt quite sturdy. The way this product is designed, you mount a wax ring between your old flange and the bottom of this repair flange, and then the rubber gasket seals against the toilet outlet. Some people have expressed concerns that the rubber might not make an adequate seal against the toilet. My thoughts are, if the outlet on your toilet is in good shape, this should work fine. If you have some chips or deep scratches in the porcelain, this might not be the product for you. It seems to have made a good seal on my toilet. It has been installed for two weeks with no sign of leaks or odor. Another design feature I liked, is how the mounting bolts are rigidly mounted to the flange. No chance of them slipping out of position while you are trying to set the toilet back on the flange. They won't spin when you are threading on the nut, either. I did take one star off my review because I think a couple of things could be improved upon. The screw holes will accommodate no larger than a #10 screw size. I would have liked at least ¼” holes. Also, I would have liked to see this product in stainless steel. It seems to have a durable coat of paint, but I think it could still be subject to corrosion, in time. Be prepared to buy different fasteners for your application; the screws included do not look adequate for most situations. A couple of helpful tips: If you have to drill pilot holes into concrete, as I did, I suggest investing in a “hammer drill,” if you don’t already have one. I tried drilling holes with a masonry bit on a standard drill, and was getting nowhere. The hammer drill made a BIG difference. My second tip, is to make sure your toilet sits level before you tighten down the flange bolts. If it is not, use shims to level it, then tighten down the bolts. My floor is not level and the toilet had a tendency to wobble, and I believe my old flange went bad because the flange bolts were over tightened to compensate for the unlevel floor. See my photos for the steps I took to repair my flange: 1. I bought an extra wax ring and used the wax to fill in the gaps where my old flange was broken away. (drill pilot holes for new flange before adding wax) 2. I placed a wax ring on my old flange, as per the instructions. 3. I placed the repair flange on top of the wax ring and evenly tightened down all the concrete anchor screws. I then removed the excess wax that was squeezed out. I used all the screw holes on the repair flange, which may be overkill, but I wasn’t taking any chances. My toilet now feels solid and secure for the first time in years.

Didn't know this product existed until I went to replace the old, rusty flange and found it to be about 1/2 inch below the floor tile with some tile actually covering the edges. I added a couple of flange spacers and the extra thick wax seal, then installed the HydroSeat. Very simple once I figured out exactly what I needed.

Had a nightmare situation when pulling out an old toilet from the 90's. Old flange was completely rusted away just flaking off, bolts breaking right off etc. Ran to the store grabbed this guy. Zero leaks since. New toilet is super sturdy. Did not need professional plumber to install. Truly unreal. I don't leave reviews for anything, but because this worked so well, so easy to install, it saved the day for us. Can't recommend enough. (ps make sure to grab an extra wax ring.)

So far so good. I’ve only had this one week it’s not leaking or rocking so I had a new floor put in. It was so much better than having to use a messy wax ring and I loved that

The box said it fits 99% of the time. I must have been the unlucky 1% because the minute I opened the box, it was obvious it wouldn’t fit. In the end, the inexpensive $6 flange did the trick.

The metal ring of my existing toilet flange had rusted away . I purchased the Danco Hydroseat to address the repair and installation of a new toilet. As I understand it made of powder coated steel. I opted instead to make the repair with a stainless steel (USA made) clam shell flange replace to make the repair.

Simple and easy to install

Great product. Super heavy duty.