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# How To Frame a New Wall

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### Learn how to master the steps for framing a new wall, including measuring, layout and nailing

Part of building a wall is knowing where to put it, you have got to put a wall where you can nail it to something. If a wall runs perpendicular to the joists, you nail to the joists. But if a wall runs parallel to the joists, it can cross an entire room without crossing any framing. Nothing guarantees the end of a wall will run into framing in the existing wall. If you need joists or studs that aren't there, you have two choices: Move the wall or add framing. Leave the framing to a pro.

Once you have a location, build the wall flat on the floor and tilt it into place. If you have 3 or 4-inch diameter pipes running through the wall, make the wall from 2x6s. If not, make it from 2x4s.

Wing walls that are only a few feet high and a few feet long - present their own problems. You can't nail them to the joists above, and one end of the wall will stop before it meets another wall. Give a wing wall strength by running the end stud through the floor and bolting it to a joist.

### MATERIALS

1
Temporarily layout the new wall

Run a stud finder along the ceiling to locate the joists. If the joists are parallel to the new wall, adjust the layout so that the wall is directly under a joist. If they run perpendicular to the wall, put the wall where you want.

2
MEASURE FROM A CORNER AND MARK WHERE THE NEW WALL MEETSTHE EXISTING WALL

Measure from the opposite corner and lay out the other end of the new wall. Snap a chalk line between the marks. This marks one edge of the top plate. Measure diagonally between opposite corners. If the measurements are the same, the new wall is square. If they are not, adjust the layout so they are equal.

3
Lay out the sole plate, drive a nail into the ceiling close to oneend of the chalk line

Hang a plumb bob from the nail and mark the floor at the point. Repeat at the other end of the ceiling chalk line. Snap a chalk line between the marks to lay out one edge of the sole plate. Mark an X to the side of the line where the plate will be positioned.

4
Set the top and sole plates side by side on the floor

Starting at one end, measure and mark the plates every 16 inches. Then, with a combination square and a pencil, extend the lines across the plates. Draw an X at the end of each plate and to the right side of the line on each plate to mark the location of studs.

5
Determine the stud length by measuring the distance betweenthe ceiling and the floor at several places

Take the shortest distance and subtract 3 3/4 inches to allow for the combined thicknesses of the top and bottom sole plates. This also allows for the clearance you will need to tilt the wall into place.

6
Cut the studs to length

Take the shortest distance and subtract 3 3/4 inches to allow for the combined thicknesses of the top and bottom sole plates. This also allows for the clearance you will need to tilt the wall into place.

7
Nail the studs in place one at a time

Once all the studs are attached to the bottom plate, set the top plate on edge and nail it to the studs at the marks. Two-by-fours placed between the studs act as firestops in case of a fire inside the wall. Cut them to fit, position them to make nailing easy and nail them in place.

8
With the studs nailed in place, align the bottom plate with thefloor chalk line

Carefully tilt the wall into place and align the top plate with the ceiling chalk line. For a large wall, get someone to help you lift it into position.

9
Starting at one end of the new wall, shim between the topplate and ceiling and check the wall for plumb with a level

As you shim and plumb each section of wall, drive 16d nails through the top plate into the framing. Fasten the bottom plate by driving 16d nails through it into the floor. Nail the end studs to framing in the existing wall. Score the shims with a utility knife and snap them off flush with the plate.