Questions and Answers for Reach Barrier 48 in. x 250 ft. Silvertanium Reflective Attic Insulation Roll

A:  My first concern is that placing the Attic Silvertanium directly behind siding raises the temperature of the siding as it does to shingles when installed in attics. Will this affect the siding, that is unknown. Vinyl/aluminum sidings are very heat sensitive (nailer slots provided specifically for this reason), will the additional heat exceed the expansion capabilities of these materials? Secondly, any reflective insulation requires an air gap on the exterior side to allow for efficient performance. Placing strapping over it would provide that. Remember, Attic Silvertanium is perforated and therefore isn't a vapor barrier.

A:  It will do nothing for your R value when installed under siding of exterior walls.

A:  Dear ELC: A reflective / radiant barrier will make very little difference in the R-value of your exterior facing walls, and only in the summer -- because cold cannot be 'reflected' and the warmer air inside your home is not radiant. These products deliver almost no R-value by themselves -- R-1 or less. You must create / build an air gap to achieve the claims on the package. This is obviously not possible under siding. You have the right idea, however. When you install new siding, this is the perfect time to boost the insulation of your home. Foam board is the solution used by most builders, with ~R5 insulation value per inch. We recently completed a project in Massachusetts, for example, and wrapped the exterior walls with 2" thick XPS foam board. We also sealed all of the joints and edges carefully to block air and moisture leaks. We prefer XPS foam because it does not absorb water -- always a concern on exterior surfaces. Polyisocyanurate foam board provides slightly high R values, but absorbs water like a sponge. Use DAP 230 sealant or HVAC mastic to seal the joints and small gaps. The 'Window and Door' version of Great Stuff foam is a good solution to seal the edges and larger gaps. It remains flexible after it cures, to avoid cracks as things expand and contract. We added a generous coating of DAP 230 sealant on top and around window and door openings, etc. Then install 1" x 3" PT strapping on top of the foam board, to mount your new siding. A couple of photos are attached. You will need to replace the trim around windows and doors to match the new thickness of the walls. Here is another tip: Use Home Depot's Veranda PVC trim boards instead of wood. They never rot and never need paint -- as long as you want white trim. If you do want a different color, the PVC surface is much better for paint than wood. It cuts and installs easily; always use stainless screws to avoid any rust spots down the road. See: Veranda Model # H190OWS3, Home Depot Internet # 100244007 Store SKU # 254294 and PrimeSource Model # MAXS62776 Home Depot Internet # 203354116 Store SKU # 232646 I hope this is helpful. Mark

A:  Since radiant insulation works by slowing heat transfer through air space, it won't help much at all under siding unless there's air space between the siding and the sheathing. If you're looking to improve the insulation in the walls you should be looking at insulation that lowers heat transfer through conduction since the usual siding/sheathing interface is a solid material/material contact.

A:  To be effective as an insulation product, there must be a air space between the reflective material and the surface of opposite facing wall or whatever is opposite the reflective material.

A:  I don't believe it will do much good as it needs an air gap on the emissivity side (the side you are trying to keep constant temp).

A:  No, Silvertanium isn't insulation. It works by reflecting heat (infrared radiation) back outside. This significantly reduces the heat in the attic. Because it is a reflective barrier the overlaped seams are not tape. It also has small holes to allow water vapor to pass so as not to trap moisture. The attic must be ventilated to the outside to prevent mold and heat damage. Silvertanium is stapled to the rafters and cutouts are made around roof vent openings. The attic floor (i.e. upper floor ceiling) must still be properly insulated.

A:  Dear Messman: No. Reach barrier is perforated and does not function as an air barrier. You are correct that blocking air infiltration / exfiltration is a key step for energy efficiency. This is challenging, however, particularly with existing buildings. Green Building Advisor and Fine Homebuilding offer detailed guides. The first place to start in most homes is the attic. If you have a standard ventilated attic, search for and seal all air leaks into the attic. Here are some tips: Recessed ceiling lights are culprit #1: install Tenmat covers and seal the edges with DAP 230 sealant. See: Tenmat Model # FF130E Home Depot Internet # 204286308 Store SKU # 1000012747 and DAP 230, Home Depot Internet #100035980 Store SKU #284425 Store SO SKU #1000058280 You can also create covers with pieces of drywall, taped together with foil HVAC tape and sealed around the bottom edge with DAP 230. The 'Window and Door' version of Great Stuff spray foam is good to fill larger gaps and holes -- but do not use it near anything that gets hot, e.g. a chimney or exhaust vent. For gaps near a hot exhaust vent, fill the space with Roxul rock wool, then cover it with fire resistant sealant, e.g. 3M Model CP-25WB+, Home Depot Internet #100166701 Store SKU #163096 For the large gap next to a chimney, cover it with aluminum flashing (available at Home Depot) nailed to the joists, and seal the edges with 3M sealant. Best of luck with your project! Mark

A:  Yes, if the seams are sealed (taped, or similar). But, under a high wind load there is probably some air that will move thru the tiny perforations. However, not enough to make much difference.

A:  It could probably be used as air barrier But it is not designated for it Will work great for radiant heat

A:  Air will not pass thru this material just as air will not pass thru mylar film. But this is a radiant barrier, it should not be confused with having insulation properties. Insulation is the property of slowing down the transfer of heat from one medium to another, typically by adding layers of trapped air (such as in fiberglass insulation) since air is a poor conductor of heat. When applied to the rafters of an attic, the radiant barrier diminishes the transfer of heat from the roof to the insulation on the attic floor, and that insulation then releases its heat to the ceilings of the upper floor of the house. So it will reduce the total heat transfer to the insulation, but itself will not add to the insulation qualities of the attic.

A:  Dear Kati: First, reflective/radiant barriers like Reach are not effective during the winter because cold cannot be reflected and the warmer air in your home is not radiant. So if you live in an area with cold winters, you should start by blowing at least 12” of cellulose into your attic, over whatever insulation is already there. If you have hot summers, independent testing shows that the most effective way to install a radiant barrier is to simply lay it down on the floor of your attic, over the insulation. This will reflect ~24% of the heat flux from the hot roof and reduce your HVAC bills by ~4%. I hope this is helpful. Mark

A:  Your sunroom would become a dark room! Better to buy a thick clear (not milky) vinyl, cut to shape and use screws to install/ uninstall simi-annually.

A:  Although Silvertanium is a high quality product it is not suitable for your application. It has tiny holes to allow for moisture equalization between the attic interior and the space between rafters. Not a feature useful for covering screens. Besides, it's opaque. There are other products for your needs. You can use six mil vapor barrier, although it is translucent (as opposed to transparent) but is reusable. There's also a thin non reusable transparent product that can be heated with a hairdryer to remove any wrinkles for a truly clear view.

A:  The product reflects radiant heat, and in my opinion is not a true insulation. So if you don't have a heat source it would be of no benefit.

A:  I don't know if this helps detecting roof leaks. Actually it might make it harder to detect roof leaks due to how it needs to be installed. Roof leaks are difficult to locate even without this product, but the energy savings this product yields are worth it. It might be good to inspect the underside of the roof before installing this product as well as the roof itself. Ken

A:  Unsuitable for detecting roof leaks. In fact, it would conceal the source of any leak.

A:  It does not, in fact it would make it harder to find. You would have to remove inspect then reinstall.

A:  Dear KeepTheHeatOut: Silvertanium will not help you detect roof leaks. If you have enough room to get into your attic during a heavy rainstorm, the best solution is a powerful flashlight so you can see into every corner of your attic. Water leaks obviously travel down rafters if you have a standard sloped roof -- so look for water at the bottom of the rafters, then follow the trail back up. I hope this is helpful. Mark

A:  Honestly I don't believe it will help retain cooling as the insulated panels will. Or if your tring to DIY and use this in conjunction with some insulation board and have this over top you may have luck there. They sell insulation kits for garage doors that are very inexpensive. Hope this helps.

A:  Yes, it will act as an insulation for the door by its inherent reflective nature. In order to work however, it requires an air gap. This will not be a problem if the installation is applied to an uninsulated metal door. The raised inner structural lip surface will provide an ideal air space between the Silvertanium and the outer door panel, and it will provide a sealing surface for gluing (ie. caulking). Because attaching it to the inner surface of an insulated metal door or a wooden door will lack the air gap, it's effectiveness is greatly compromised and can cause reflective heat damage to the door, especially the outer paint. Care will be in not ripping the material from inadvertent contact.

A:  Yes, it is possible, but it will make the door shiny

A:  Dear JamCraMer: Yes, but it will provide little benefit. Reflective / radiant barriers provide almost no insulation R-value by themselves. You must build / create a sealed air gap; this air gap delivers almost all of the claimed R-value. You cannot simply tape or staple the reflective barrier to your garage door. Plus, it would be very difficult to create and maintain sealed air gaps on the panels of a moving garage door. Finally, Silvertanium is perforated -- so the super heated air between it and your garage door will simply flow into your garage, just like it did before. Fortunately, Home Depot sells another garage door insulation product that is simple to install and delivers R-8, summer and winter. See: Owens Corning Model # GD01, Home Depot Internet #202257272, Store SKU #744925 I hope this is helpful. Mark

A:  I can't see why not you just have to fasten with tape instead of stapling.

A:  Yes, super easy!

A:  "Chemical not good for health" is subject to wide interpretation. The Home Depot listing does indicate (under product details) that this material is Formaldehyde Free. I don't know the exact composition of the material but similar products are listed (on other web sites) as meeting International Building Code standards. This suggests no identified health risks when used for what it is designed for. Most plastics will "out gas" a bit over time but since this has a "metalized coating" I suspect that output would be minimal. The attic should be reasonably well ventilated with outside air -- thru soffits and roof vents -- so any slight out gassing products would normally not accumulate in the attic space.

A:  This isn't California... it's America, quit blaming your problems on objects...

A:  Yes, but cut holes wherever you have roof vents for good air circulation. In the case of a ridge vent, stop the installation a few inches on either side of the ridge. Silvertanium is stapled to the underside of the rafters starting up to six inches from the top of the attic insulation. It's okay if the styrofoam soffit vent extensions extend above the bottom of the Silvertanium. Consider adding more soffit vent extensions, and more soffit vents if you have an older home with closed soffits, before the job. There is no such thing as to many of either. Styrofoam soffit vent extensions are relatively inexpensive, so do every bay between the rafters. Gaps around structure and plumbing vent pipes etc. are fine and do not need to be taped. The perforations will not allow moisture to accumulate within a rafter bay in case there's no styrofoam vent extension in that particular bay. Of course insure that there are enough roof vents. Again, there's no such thing as too many. A byproduct of the Silvertanium installation is a rise of shingle temperature which, in itself, isn't a problem and can be mitigated by the aforementioned additional ventilation.

A:  No I just left a gap at the bottom and top for air flow