Questions and Answers for SharkBite 1/2 in. Brass Push-to-Connect Ball Valve

A:  Remove the nut then the handle lifts off

A:  Also note that the entire valve assembly will rotate!

A:  I would guess yes to remove handle & not compromise the valve function!

A:  Yes you can just take the nut off an remove the handle. Sometimes bending them to suite your needs works as well. P.S.... Find a better plumber ;)

A:  yes dont see why not

A:  You could always get a circular valve shut off handle, attach it and it would only require 90’ to shut the valve on or off with very little arc (Relative to circumference the knob) of length required.

A:  You could remove/replace the handle as you're inquiring. But try this first. SharkBite fittings can be rotated on the pipe even after installation. You might try just spinning it over or even turn it upside down to see if it allows you the clearance you need. It may avoid having to remove (and possible lose) the handle.

A:  Yes. Probably can. But first try rotating the valve if a different handle orientation clears the drawer. Also suggest that you get a different plumber.

A:  Don't see why not .Better put nut and handle in ziplock bag to prevent loss .

A:  why did the plumber install the valve behind a kitchen drawer. Is there no crawl space or basement access to plumbing. To be honest I have seen plumbing runs in cabinets before but the valves are always under a sink or other easily accessible place. You seem to have answered your own question unless you can move the valve you are stuck with removing the handle when the seasons change

A:  Copper turns green naturally when exposed to acidic water. Check to see if there’s moisture on the surface of the valve. Unless the valve or your connection is leaking, it could be caused by humid conditions or something above dripping onto the valve .

A:  Not sure why the copper would be oxidizing so soon. This usually only happens when there is a leak, check your connections and also the the handle where it contacts the valve.

A:  Copper oxidization gives you the “green” color you are experiencing. Usually the body is factory processed to eliminate this, but this does happen, usually in damp stagnant air areas like crawl spaces. Also, if you can check the orifice of the valve handle to see if there is a leak there which would case water leakage sometimes indicated by a discoloration or gritty film on the body. To resolve the easiest way, sand areas with very fine paper and apply a clear protectant or clear nail polish, or remove the valve (easy as it is compression fitting type) and exchange for a new one. Hope this helps.

A:  No

A:  Because they are brass

A:  I've never experienced this situation, but if its turning green on the outside, there has to be water getting to it. I would pull the valve off and check for any burs, and then reinstall. Maybe flip it around so you can see if it happens again, and maybe have your water checked. These valves are brass and shouldn't turn green, but acidity levels in your water may be deteriorating the copper lines, turning them green.

A:  There's a couple possible explanations for turning green. Could be one the other or even a combination. But since SharkBite fittings are technically isolated from the copper (internal plastic and rubber parts) it might not be completing a grounded source. Also, it may be in a location with high humidity. And the first thought might be "but the pipes aren't turning green". However, brass is an alloy or hybrid metal which can be more reactive to humidity than solid copper. If it's a continuity issue here's something you might try. Clean the fitting with some WD-40 or similar spray lubricant. Wipe it liberally with a rag to remove as much green as possible. Then install a piece of wire copper to copper (around the SharkBite fitting and clamp it to the pipe with small hose clamps and allow it to contact the fitting as well. My suspicion is (though rare) your experiencing what's known as electrolysis. This can happen anywhere dissimilar metals come together. But can also occur if there's a ground attached to that pipe somewhere up or down the line. Just for the sake of it, I've used a lot of these fittings under many conditions and haven't yet experienced this problem.

A:  There is either a small leak or sweating on handle of the valve

A:  We need more information to properly assist you. Please contact Customer Service M-F, 8am-5pm at (877) 700-4242.

A:  it could be condensation , or possibly a small leak , as far as I know all Copper will turn green over time depending on conditions and location of install .

A:  Alabama

A:  We manufacture our push to connect fittings in Australia and Alabama. If you have further questions, please contact Customer Service M-F, 8am-5pm at (877) 700-4242.

A:  I believe they are made in Alabama

A:  Sharkbites were originally made in Australia, but they also now have a production facility in Alabama, so most likely the ones that you will purchase are made in Alabama USA, but depending on the supplier that you are purchasing from, they maybe made in Australia.

A:  Manufactured in Alabama by an Australian company

A:  not that I know of (PEX and copper only)

A:  No it will not

A:  No, this will not fit on a galvanized pipe. The walls of a galvenized pipe are too thick to fit into a sharkbite.

A:  Although copper cannot be safely connected directly to galvanized pipe without a dielectric union -- the ends of the valve fitting are plastic, not copper. However, I do not believe the valve fitting will press onto the galvanized pipe because of size-differences. However, there may be an adapter that is available to accommodate a transition of a galvanized pipe to the Sharkbite fitting although it may require the pipe to be cut.

A:  As long as the diameter matches and it fits in tight it should work.

A:  Yes

A:  No, SharkBite push to connect fittings are only guaranteed on PEX, copper, CPVC and some specific fittings on PVC. The SharkBite push fittings with male and female adapter ends can be used on the threaded end of galvanized pipe to then transition to PEX, copper or CPVC. If you have further questions, please contact Customer Service M-F, 8am-5pm at (877) 700-4242.

A:  Yes it’s teflon. PTFE

A:  PTFE

A:  Not sure but have only used on water .They work well and have had no problems.Easy to use we have rental properties and these last .

A:  It is packing made of PTFE. If you have further questions, please contact Customer Service M-F, 8am-5pm at (877) 700-4242.

A:  There isn't any sealing material. Works well though.

A:  Im not sure what the ball seal is, but as a HIC, we use these alot and recommend them to everyone. They shut off the water as they are supposed to, and with the quarter turn, you never have to worry about water leaking past when its closed. Furthermore it is easy to install and remove, if necessary, because of the sharkbite technology, and works well on either pex or copper or both, and although we dont use or recommend cpvc, or pvc, it will also easily work with both of them.

A:  It will not work, this valve will cover 2" of space

A:  they make a slip joint sharkbite for any size of pipe. It goes on one end of the pipe and you adjust it. You need to buy the special tool that cost less then $1 to make any adjustments or to remove the sharkbite. I think you have up to about 4 inches of adjustment with the slip joint sharkbite (the slip joint shark bite looks like a tube about 4 inches long) .

A:  No this fitting will not work, the max. space allowable between the ends of the tubes is about 1 1/2". Otherwise it is a very good product.

A:  I believe the gap for the valve is in the 1.25" range. MEASURE THE VALVE BEFORE CUTTING! Remember you need to position the valve in the system where there is enough movement in the piping to spread the gap to install the valve and allow the gap to be small enough to assure the pipes are FULLY seated in the valve at final installation. Don't cut the gap any wider than the valve requires.

A:  I answered your question yesaterday saying that the SharkBite ball valve won't fill a 2.5" gap. I didn't have time right then but you could consider using a SharkBite Slip Coupling ( Model# U3008LFA ) with the SharkBite Ball Valve to make the repair. It will add another $12 to the cost of the repair but solves the problem and makes future repairs in the same line simpler. I was adding a Ball Valve, not replacing an existing valve, so I was able to cut out the length of copper tubing that would allow the SharkBite valve to fit properly. My tube was very close to a stud so I purchased an AutoCut Tube cutter (Model# ATC 12 ) to cut the tubing. It was expensive - $18 - but it worked great and now I have it for future use. It will only cut 1/2" dia, tubing - you will need to buy another one if you ever have to cut 3/4" tubing. I also bought the 1/2" SharkBite Disconnect Clip (Model# U710A ) for $2 in case I ever have to disconnect the Fittings. I believe the Slip Coupling is supplied with a Disconnect Clip so you won't need to buy one if you decide to use the Slip Coupling. All of these items are available at Home Depot. This YouTube video is very good and shows how to use the Slip Coupling and how to measured the cuts and make the assembly - it's worth watching: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sEsqtSA7HsM

A:  I think 2 1/2 inches may be a bit too much ... you could probably cut off some of the existing pipe and use a sharkbite coupler to add in a section of pipe that would make the spacing correct. Remember, it is very important with sharkbites that the pipe seat all the way into the coupling. The ball valve, by the way, is excellent.

A:  SharkBite also offers 1/4 turn valves (and tees) that are designed as "slip joint valves." These are specifically designed to be used for connecting larger gaps, or in cases where there is not play in the existent plumbing. Any plumbing associate should be able to help you identify and locate them.

A:  Our slip ball valve and fittings are repair fittings but can only cover a gap up to 2". So, you would need at least 2 fittings to properly replace your gate valve. You could cut out a little larger section, use a coupling and ball valve and a fresh piece of PEX, copper or CPVC. If you have further questions, please contact Customer Service M-F, 8am-5pm at (877) 700-4242.

A:  That’s going to be a little too much of a gap for the valve to cover. I would cut the pipe about a foot or so away and add a coupling. They have those in Sharkbites also. The extra room is just to leave working room later. Be sure the Sharkbite fittings are firmly seated all the way in the valve and coupling. Expensive but so much easier to work with in tight areas.

A:  You may want to make the gap bigger, install a sharkbite coupler on one side with a length of pex for flex and ease of install, and the shutoff on the other side. Sometimes you will not have the flex that you need, and adding these additional pieces will make your install easy.

A:  Measure the depth that the Pex pipe will be inserted into each end of the pipe. Subtract the two measurements from the overall length of the valve. That's how much to cut out. There'll probably be some flexibility in the pipe to allow for it to be stretched it in or out to fit the valve in-line. Better to cut not enough than too much. Pex pipe is easy to cut.

A:  2"

A:  Hello SHP, glad to help answer your question. You should be able to slide or push the PEX back enough for it to fit, if not maybe a couple of inches removed where you want to connect it into line. You will need to be able to move the PEX enough to properly seal when pushing into each side of the valve. Hope this helped.

A:  You need 1" of pipe on both ends to insert into the fitting plus the width of the fitting body. If you have further questions, please contact Customer Service M-F, 8am-5pm at (877) 700-4242.

A:  I’m not exactly sure but I do know it’s less than you would think! The pipe goes pretty deep into valve on both sides. You can take pipe out with tool if you need to cut more pipe.

A:  PEX is very flexible so I would remove very little pipe. Use the actual valve as a guide.

A:  This product is specifically designed to be used with Pex tubing.

A:  This product can be used with PEX, CPVC, or PE-RT pipes.

A:  Just on CPVC

A:  Hello Old, glad to help answer your question. No. the outer diameter is to large to be used with these fittings. Now with that said, the outside dimension of CPVC is the same as copper and PEX size & because CPVC is the same as copper on the OD, the ID is smaller than copper. PVC & CPVC are two different types of pipe. If you have or are working with CPVC then yes the fittings will work. I hope this helped.

A:  If you mean typical, rigid pvc, I doubt it. If you're referring to pex tubing, which is a flexible type of plastic, then the answer is yes. Of course, it also accepts copper pipe.

A:  No. That fitting is only for copper or CPVC. We do have a fitting that will work on PVC, but it has a white release collar. If you have further questions, please contact Customer Service M-F, 8am-5pm at (877) 700-4242.

A:  No. You would need to use one of our SharkBite PVC adapter push fittings. If you have further questions, please contact Customer Service M-F, 8am-5pm at (877) 700-4242.

A:  This valve is made for cpvc or copper.

A:  Yes.

A:  no

A:  Nope, just CPVC

A:  Yes, it will

A:  both directions

A:  Will work in both directions.

A:  either direction

A:  Yes. You can't install it backwards. Either way works the same.

A:  No, it is not directional. If you have further questions, please contact Customer Service M-F, 8am-5pm at (877) 700-4242.

A:  It works in either direction