Questions and Answers for Fernco 3 in. PVC Wax Free Toilet Seal

A:  I would call the manufacture for confirmation since I have never installed a rear discharge toilet before. If the fit is tightly snug, then I don't see why it does work. As for fitting, it's depending on your pipe's opening. This is made from PVC and specifically designed for PVC pipes, however, I have used it with cast iron and ABS pipes with no issues.

A:  These have been used on floor mounted rear discharge toilets.

A:  Installed on a Toto toilet; no felt gasket was present. I would guess it is okay, as long as the felt gasket is not very thick. Alternatively, remove the felt and apply directly.

A:  I think the gasket is waxed on one side and cardboard on the other. If so, yes it is made to remove and adhere to the bottom of the stool base. The only issue with adhesion, in my experience, has been on existing stools and wax ring residue. Wax must be completely removed with solvent to have any adhesion or better yet they stick extremely well to new stools. To recap, yes remove waxy paper to expose the adhesive on the flange.

A:  There is no felt gasket. If you are referring to the old wax ring then yes remove it. On the Fernco seal there is a protective plastic covering on the glue like ring First remove the plastic and affix the seal to the clean, underside of the toilet bowl opening. Then the toilet and the attached Fernco seal is set as a unit into the floor drain (you may need a helper). Press down on the toilet bowl and tighten bolts. I've installed five Fernco at different homes and each one works like a charm. They are a fantastic item. Do read the manufacturers guide on the box. Thanks.

A:  Not sure what felt gasket you were referring to. Lip on this has adhesive to stick right to the bottom of your toilet. The funneled rubber end goes right into your drain. No wax no mess . These are the only toilet seals that I use in our house.

A:  Just follow the instructions. This takes the place of the traditional wax ring.

A:  There is no felt gasket.

A:  Yes, without a doubt!

A:  Yes.

A:  I would NOT use this as a replacement for a wax ring. The best replacement for a wax ring is a wax ring. This will eventually leak and cause water damage. I know this because I've used this product and have had two of this fail years later, which would have never happened if I just cleaned off the old wax and installed a new wax ring the first time. Save yourself time, money and energy and use a wax ring as a replacement.

A:  The adhesive will not stick to the waxy residue left by the old wax ring. It must be cleaned completely. Once it adheres installation is easy. The seal gives complete confidence that no leaks are possible. Anyone that worries about leaks will appreciate the product.

A:  Yes, this will work very well as a replacement. However, make sure to scrape off the old wax completely before installing.

A:  Fernco Toilet Seals can be used to replace a wax ring previously installed on a toilet. Make sure that before you install the new toilet seal that you remove all previous wax. It is recommended that you use an abrasive cleaner, then use rubbing alcohol to remove any additional film. Let the area dry completely and perform a water bead test on the area to assure that all previous wax residue is removed. Once the area dries, remove the paper from the toilet seat adhesive. It is recommended that you use a hair dryer to heat the glue, just in case the paper has been tampered with at the store. This helps activate the glue, to assure a firm seal. Place toilet seal on toilet pressing firmly all the way around.

A:  Yes. Significantly better than the old wax especially if floor is not level.

A:  No, it means "EVEN" if the floor is 3/4" higher than the flange. Ideally the floor and flange are at same height. Your flange 3/8" above floor level is no problem.

A:  You could do a dry fit to see if the toilet would reach the floor all around. If it does not rest on the floor all around you could attach a rim of cork, or something to lift the toilet up a bit. Then you could put a bead of silicone around the base of the toilet. That seems better than trying to rework everything. I had to break out the cement floor around the drain pipe and move it about 5" closer to the wall. I then set the flange even with the tile on the floor, poured cement to refill the hole and set the screws in the flange and let the cement set around them. It worked great. I stuck the toilet seal to the toilet, marked with tape on the toilet and the floor where the bolts were to know where to set it down. I could hear and feel the toilet seal seat itself.

A:  One word: "shims." Almost all toilet installations require some shimming -ofen even included in kits like this.

A:  Yes. There room user the bowel. And flange compresses

A:  You might check by installing the seal into the flange leaving on the waxy paper. Then set the stool and make sure the stool sets well on the floor. If it holds the stool proud of the floor you might use another method.

A:  No!

A:  No, I don't think it would be beneficial at all. The seal has an ample amount of adhesive (like mouse trap glue) and sticks like the dickens. Any foreign substance applied may get under the seal before it bonds. Maybe a little paranoid, but once installed on a clean stool you cant hardly rip it off so I don't think it necessary and the flange extends inches into the drain pipe.

A:  I don’t think calk is needed

A:  I've used many of these and don't see the benefit of adding any caulk. The adhesive on the product is more than sufficient to provide a solid, leak-proof seal.

A:  No. By adding A LOT of caulking under the toilet may help but you are doing a lot more work than simply just using a wax ring. With wax, you are filling the space that is not covered by these wax free seals and they will eventually leak. Also, do not caulk around the outside of your toilet. Although this helps with the stability of the toilet, you won't be able to see if it starts to leak and you will end up with major water damage. Hope this helps. Good luck!