Questions and Answers for Midwest Electric Products 30 Amp Temporary RV Load Center Power Outlet

A:  Comes with installation instructions. Follow the instructions. Home Depot is good about putting all instructions and manuals online as well.

A:  This is actually for a 220V 30A setup. That means the left AND right will both be a 110V line. The Neutral/Ground will be the top post.

A:  It is very easy to confuse left-right. I recommend against using left right description. The socket is clearly marked on the rear for neutral-hot-ground. It also comes with instructions that clearly identify neutral-hot-ground.

A:  A wiring diagram us on the inside of the door.

A:  Read the instructions or hire an electrician.

A:  It can but it would be an illegal and potentially dangerous installation. It is rated 30amps at 120v and should not be used in any other way than its UL listing allows.

A:  Yes, this is a 220 volt unit with ground and neutral. Your max wire size is #10AWG which is good for 30 amps. Depending on the distance to the pump is important so make sure it is 100 feet or less, otherwise the wire size increases. There are several other units you can use that do not require a male plug which is needed for the female plug as shown on the picture. You should investigate what else is available and determine the safest way to install it according to your local electrical code so your safe. Good luck.

A:  not designed for 220

A:  Yes.

A:  At first I didn't think so but this one says 120 or 220 volt. If you notice the plug configuration is differant. Mine is 30 Amp 120 volts only.https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-30-Amp-125-Volt-250-Volt-Shallow-Single-Flush-Mounted-Outlet-Black-R30-05207-S10/302480849

A:  Yes. As long as you choach has a 30 amp plug which is standard in the industry.

A:  ask your RV dealer

A:  Hi Moe: The first thing you must do is get the electrical wiring diagram for the 2016 Airstream. What does it require for amperage? Next is the voltage: is it 120V or 240V that supplies the Airstream and is the load 30 amps max? If the load is 30A max then yes you can use it. Just make absolutely certain that you wire it correctly. You must know the total amps required for any trailer that you want to feed with a 30A outlet as described. To do otherwise would be very dangerous. Good luck.

A:  This a standard 30A outlet for trailer usage, i.e. up to one air conditioner.

A:  Those plugs and recepticles come in many differant configurations and those configurations are determined by how many volts is to be supplied and how many amps they are rated for. A 30 amp 120 volt ac plug and recepticle is a very common size in the RV world. If your Airstream has the 30 amp service the plug that comes with it should fit into this recepticle which would be the same configuration you will find at RV camp grounds and RV parks. These are really handy to have at your residence so you can run your ac if you want or pre cool your refridgerator before a trip. You will need a 30 amp 120 volt breaker for you electrical panel and if yo have an electrician install it make it clear that this will be for 120 volt service to your airstream. Although I didn't have a problem getting a 30 amp 120 volt breaker they are not that common in a breaker box. I'm real happy with mine and really like the weather proof cover on it.

A:  The outlet is 30 amp 125 volt therefore, you'll only need 10-2 with ground.

A:  Yes

A:  It would be 10/2. It’s 120v not 240v which is where the 3rd conductor would come in if you used 10/3.

A:  Yes that is the appropriate size wire and it will work with this box. 30A

A:  The proper cable is 10/2 plus ground. 10/3 indicates 3 wires carrying current whereas there are only 2.

A:  It's intended for RV s to plug into with their 30 amp power cord.

A:  You can tap it from the bottom or the back

A:  You have to mount it to something. Line it up and mark the holes and use a hammer drill(if the siding is brick) to drill holes.

A:  No, the Milbank hub doesn't fit properly.

A:  Yes. You can see two of the screws for the cover in the above photo.

A:  No. Use a GE.

A:  If you have the dimensions of the screw holes on the top of the outlet box, match it up with a Milbank or GE hub. The best time to buy the hub is when you buy the outlet box. Good luck on your project.

A:  Yes, it should fit this bolt pattern.

A:  I don't know the measurements of your GE adapter hub but this is what I have. The adapter plate that I have measures 3 3/8 inch by 3 3/8 inch. The mounting holes are 2 5/8 inch center to center. I mounted a 1/2 inch Meyers hub which is weather tight. Its been awhile since I installed this 120 vac 30 amp receptacle but I think the mounting plate was blank and came with the receptacle and requires you to drill a hole for whatever size conduit you are using. Very simple job. I believe the Meyers hubs are available at Home Depot.

A:  Since you are mixing a Midwest electric outlet box with a GE product, I would ask the HD electrical people as they would know the answer (and what raintight hub they suggest).

A:  Thank you for your question. Yes, the GE rain tight hubs are the approved hubs for the Midwest products.

A:  Facing the receptacle, with the ground on top, the neutral is on the right. When in doubt, perform a search, on the internet, for "NEMA Configurations".

A:  Agossett, Rome, GA: The box and Home Depot Model #U013P says 120 volt, not 240. Is it possible that it was switched as a return? Are you positive it's a 240 volt?

A:  240 volt outlet. The other 2 are both hot.

A:  White just like a 15a outlet. My box has a diagram under the lid showing this.

A:  Looking at the front of the plug it's to one at the 7 o'clock position. Or in your photo of the back, the one that is unscrewed. FYI the one I bought from Home Depot had to be retuned as it was defective as they failed to tap one of the screw holes.

A:  THE "HOT" TERMINAL IS THE ONE THAT HAS THE SCREW TURNED OUT, IN YOUR PICTURE. The other side is the neutral.

A:  Looking at the front of the socket the hot (black) wire goes to the left terminal. The hot terminal will be brass in color. The white wire goes to the right terminal which is silver in color. Don't forget your green ground wire to the top terminal. This terminal should be green in color. You will not see these colors until you look at the back of the socket.. I have done three of these. A piece of cake ....

A:  Its which pole is the hot pole and if you look at the back of the receptacle where the wires are hooked up the top pole is the ground. The brass colored screw is for the hot (120 volt ) wire, the chrome colored screw is for the neutral wire.

A:  Looking at the picture of the outlet in this case only the positive side is on the left. Typically the hot or positive is on the right side with the ground facing down. On this picture the ground terminal is at the top. You should ALWAYS check to make sure this is correct by looking at the upstream wiring to the coach. People sometimes do cross wires.

A:  In reality as that we are talking about AC (alternating current) there is no steady positive or negative. We should refer to it as hot and neutral the neutral side also being ground. The round terminal and the right side flat terminal are neutral/ground and the left flat terminal is hot.

A:  There is no positive or negative in alternating current.. The "U" shaped blade is ground. Of the two angled blades the brass one is Hot and the silver colored one is neutral. Hope that helps.

A:  I just used a standard 30 amp 120 volt breaker for mine.

A:  If you're using the outlet for a travel trailer the ground-fault protection will be built into the trailer. If it is being used for something other than that, ie.: welder or compressor, it's advisable to protect it with a 30a 1-pole GFCI breaker.

A:  I checked with the City office and they checked it and they said that it was not needed, however other cities or counties may very well have different rules. Check with your City or County Compliance officer, or just call a licensed electrician in your town, they have to know the codes for wherever they work.

A:  That’s a code issue. The outlet works either way. But from a safety point of view, I installed a GFCI.

A:  A GFCI breaker is not required for the 30 amp RV power outlet. A GFCI breaker/outlet is required for any 15/20 amp circuit in wet areas.

A:  It should have the cap on top. Return it and get another. If you want to purchase just the cap and gasket, I thought I saw them but the fuse panels at larger Home Depots.

A:  Yes it does.

A:  Yes, mine came with the top plate which is there for the conduit entry. It should come with the enclosure. I would recommend contacting the seller and letting them know that your order was incomplete and that you didn't get everything you paid for.

A:  My 30 amp RV temporary Outlet did come with the cover you are talking about. This is my third outlet that I have purchased for RVs and they all came with a cover as shown in the picture I would take it back otherwise water will get into your outlet unless it's a completely different design

A:  Yes it does.

A:  Yes, mine came with the cap. I had to return mine due to defective outlet.

A:  On mine, the cap and four screws were sealed in a bag behind the front cover. Look down the hole and you should see it. The cap is plastic and there is no gasket. The assembly is UL listed according to the carton.

A:  Yes. It comes with it.

A:  Yes it should have been in the box 100%..no doubt.. Most store associated that have worked in the electrical department should know this part as being the Load Center Cover. Good luck