Questions and Answers for Quikrete 20 lb. Quick-Setting Cement Concrete Mix

A:  I don't see that as a problem at all.

A:  Yes, it should work fine once it has cured.

A:  I would say "Probably". Depending on your meaning of a medium gap? I used mine to fix my garage floor as salt ate away at it. This was about 4in wide, by about 3inches. Maybe a little less that a 1/4 in deep. Its been a few years and no issues

A:  QUIKRETE® Quick Setting Cement can be used to patch subfloors and foundations prior to tiling.

A:  no.

A:  NO

A:  QUIKRETE® Quick Setting Cement does not require acid etching prior to painting. For water based paints, we recommend allowing the Quick Setting Cement to cure for a week prior to coating.

A:  I see no reason why you should not be able to use this in the bottom of your planter. Are you sure you want to seal the hole......I think it might be important to have some drainage.

A:  Yes, I don't see why not ! I would put tape on the outside of the hole and spread a good paste of Quikrete into the inside hole and on the inside of the bottom !!

A:  There is a good possibility it will work. However, the patch will be porous. You will need to use a concrete sealer when it dries.

A:  QUIKRETE® Quick Setting Cement will not bond directly to clay, and is not recommended as a cooking surface. Portland cement, the base material out of which QUIKRETE® Quick Setting Cement, as well as other cementitious based mortars and concretes, is made, can degrade in temperatures as low as 200 degrees Fahrenheit.

A:  Sure...I guess. This material has a multitude of uses. Just mix as the directions indicate and pour a little in the bottom to cover the hole, wait a couple of hours and you should be good to go. I've never had to use ollas since we live in a fairly moist region and I have underground drip hoses but I'm sure they work just fine. Of course, buy the clay saucers that come with the pots to make a lid, otherwise...well, you know. I've always thought the best ollas had a very narrow neck at the top and were bulbous at the bottom. Nonetheless, I'd say use the quick-set on one and test it out above ground before burying or buying a whole set of these. If it works the way an olla is supposed to, then you've got it! Goods luck!

A:  It totally depends on the material then day planter is made of. Consult with your Home Depot rep.

A:  Personally, I would never use quick drying cement/concrete for a large job. The longer it takes concrete to cure, the stronger it will be. Also, and a lot of people don't know this, concrete should be kept moist until fully cured. Concrete cures, doesn't dry. The term dry is just what people say to refer to the curing process. In fact, drying is bad for concrete. One piece of trivia is concrete will cure totally submerged in water. Home Depot sells a good line of concrete products. (No, I don't work for Home Depot. Just a believer).

A:  QUIKRETE® Quick-Setting Cement is designed for thin-layer repairs to concrete. For your application, we recommend instead one of our quality concrete products. For assistance with product selection, please contact our customer service representatives toll free at 800-282-5828 or online via LiveChat at www.quikrete.com.

A:  Definitely, but have to add some rocks or stones to strengthen the mixture. Ask a Home Depot t specialist for more details.

A:  it really depends on the height and circumference of the actual flag pole. If it were a standard flag pole, maybe 10-15 feet in height I would probably use 3-4 60 pound bags of redi-crete and a lot less expensive.

A:  It would probably work, but depending on the diameter and height of the flag pole, it would take numerous containers to hold it up. If it is a commercially purchased flag pole they usually tell you how deep and large the hole has to be to support it and then you would have to figure out how many 10 lb containers you would need, or just purchase a larger, less cost per pound, bag of ready mix concrete.

A:  QUIKRETE® Quick Setting Cement is not designed to prevent water intrusion at foundation junctions. To repair this type of leak, the water intrusion will need to be addressed from the exterior of the wall. Typically, excavation followed by the application of bitumen (tar) is done to facilitate this type of leak.

A:  QUIKRETE® Quick-Setting Cement is designed for making small repairs to concrete and masonry assemblages. Raising an old slab typically requires a topping instead of a patching material. For toppings of ½” to 2” thick, we recommend QUIKRETE® Sand/Topping Mix. For alternate product recommendations, we recommend contacting our customer support staff toll free at 800-282-5828 or online via LiveChat at www.quikrete.com

A:  Your dimensions are larger than we typically recommend for QUIKRETE® Quick-Setting Cement. For those dimensions, we would recommend QUIKRETE® Fast-Setting Concrete Mix instead.

A:  nope..did not need it...

A:  Sealing a concrete repair is a good way to prevent further damage at the repair area. Sealants are optional, but will extend the service life of cement based repair materials.

A:  QUIKRETE® recommends permitting cement based repair materials to cure for 28 days prior to tiling. Please consult your thin-set manufacturer for their recommendations for placement over fresh concrete.

A:  We do not recommend using QUIKRETE® Quick Setting Cement #1240-20 for your application. That product is designed for thin repairs to concrete. Instead, we recommend QUIKRETE® Fast Setting Concrete Mix #1004-50, which is designed for your application.

A:  To set a mailbox you should use quick Crete cement mix with sand and gravel that comes in a 60lb bag Just mix it dry with the dirt when you backfill It will set with the ground mousture

A:  It's not cost effective to use this mix. Use the Quickrete Concrete Mix 60 Lb bag. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m6ViXU6kp7g

A:  Not sure what you mean by "it will be poured into dirt though", for IF you mean exactly that - that the concrete mix will be mixed with dirt, it will NOT be as strong, and probably not be very good. I assume you have a mailbox post (either wood or metal, round or square or something like that), but what you need to do, is remove some dirt ALL around the post, at least 2 inches around, and preferably a foot deep, and then pour the concrete mix in that area, pour about a quart of water all around the concrete, then use a wooden or metal rod (like rebar, or a dowel (SP?), and mix the water and concrete until it becomes more like a paste. If it is too runny, add more concrete, if too thick, add a little more water, and keep doing this until all the water and concrete is mixed together and the concrete becomes flush with the top of the ground, holding the post in. You will probably have about 15 minutes to mix before it gets hard, so you don't have a lot of time, and you don't want to keep mixing more than you have to. Just do enough, and then let the concrete harden around the post and all should be good and last a long time. A suggestion is to use a metal post, for it will last a lot longer than wood will, but that is a bit more expensive, and harder to attach the mailbox to. Good luck!