Questions and Answers for Orbit 5/8 in. to 3/4 in. Heavy-Duty Zinc Male Hose-thread Repair Mender Hose and Sprinkler Repair

A:  Because they ordered 3 million from China and haven't sold them all yet. Read the reviews, the screws hardly even come out when you try to disassemble the thing in the first place. The screws are almost stripped from the factory. Then try to get the clamp to go over and actual 3/4" hose... fuhgedabowtit! and the 2 pieces of the clamping mechanism almost have to be touching before the screws reach the threads. They are way too short.

A:  I also had problems installing. Clamp screws are too short. Overpriced junk

A:  Thanks for your question. As you found out, this device is somewhat sensitive to the particular hose in question, and that is not mentioned in the product description as it should be. To ease installation on a stiffer hose where the screws don't want to fit, one can try soaking the tip of the hose in boiling water to soften the material. Vice grips can also be used in some cases to grip the clamshell halves together while inserting and tightening the screws. In case of the metal stem not sealing well with the interior of the hose, a few wraps of teflon sealing tape sometimes helps.

A:  I have used these several times and have never had a problem..

A:  I used mine with my brand new power washer and there were no leaks at all. I was very impressed with this product!

A:  I was able to use large channel lock pliers to compress the zinc fitting prior to tightening the screws and was successful. I was using a 3/4" hose though and had similar problems prior to using an external compression device, this is not a well designed product.

A:  it definitely is not designed for thick hoses. I found it best to buy the kind with the adjustable hose clamp for thick hoses.

A:  perhaps the unit you bought is not meant for your hose. My unit is excellent for replacing my hose end. Noticed that the screws are just long enough but you can always get 3/4" screws instead of the 1/2" ones. If you still cannot get it to fit Home Depot will help you put it on.

A:  Similar to the channel lock suggested below, I use a bench vise to compress the body fully closed (make sure the pins line up before tightening too far). I do the same with the plastic ones and they both work great now. However I've found these brass ones are just brass plated, and corrode and break fairly quickly. I actually find the plastic ones last longer and less risk of the big metal body dinging a car or something.

A:  I would take it back it is bad.. Or wrap some plumbing tape around the threds

A:  sounds as if the nozzel is either missing its round seal or the seal is worn if its only leaking at the threads .

A:  The "brass" part is not solid machined brass like the picture but some other plated metal, and it has a sharp edge. Cut right throught the washer. Get a new washer and a better repair coupling e.g. Gilmour, Nelson, etc.

A:  The squirt nozzle needs a new washer.

A:  Check the rubber gasket in the mating part.

A:  Make sure there is a washer inside your "squirt nozzle"

A:  Return it to your store for replacement....It may be your hose fitting that leaks. Also try a few wraps of nylon plumbers tape.

A:  If you have a rubber washer in the hose it will seal. Your either missing the washer or the washer is old hard.

A:  I've had problems like that with various combinations of fittings, and it used to drive me crazy. I'd try teflon tape, etc, but then realized that it's all in the standard hose washer. If you have the correct size washer, and if the male end is long enough and tight enough, it can't leak. No water can get past that washer if it is compressed and inserted correctly. Sometimes, you can use two washers if the male end is too short for the nozzle, but I have not really had that happen very often. What I have had are one common washer design that has these tabs to hold it in (usually green washer), and sometimes that style is a bit too small. The orange washers seem better.

A:  Yes, the threads don't leak.

A:  The threaded yellow portion is some sort of plating because I can see a silvery metal at the bottom of the threads. The usual practice is to not use dissimilar metals in contact with each other because that can produce corrosion between them.

A:  Brass

A:  Threaded part is brass collar is zinc. Didn't work at all on 3/4 in hose. Threads in the collar just pulled out when I tried to tighten.

A:  Yes.

A:  These have had anodized aluminum threads for years. If you leave this connected to real brass threads for too long you won't get it back apart due to galvanic corrosion! It has happened to me. Extremely frustrating. Avoid this garbage.

A:  It looks like brass, but it is lighter. The old genuine brass connector that it replaced had some heft to it, that this piece lacks.

A:  It appears to be Brass, although I did not inspect it specifically to determine this.

A:  The threaded portion looks like brass, but it is actually plated pot metal. It will look nice for a while, and then eventually corrode. Not a terrible product, but real brass would have been much better.

A:  It looks like some kind of plated metal. It doesn't look like the picture at all. It appears at some point they have been changed from machined brass (good) to some other metal (disappointing, and has a sharp edge that cuts the washer and causes leaks)

A:  Its made in China, so it is a cheap plating over some kind of white metal disguised to look like brass. Secondly, You will have to remove the screws completely and clean the threads up with a 7 mm die. They are very tight so be careful not to strip the head of each screw. They are gaulded with metal from tapping them into the housing during manufacturer. As the average consumer probably doesn't own a die set, you'll probably have to go to the hardware section and buy 2 new 7mm screws. I put the screws in a vice and cleaned the threads up with my 7mm die. Good luck.