Questions and Answers for Grisham 24 in. x 54 in. Spear Point Window Guard

A:  They use one way screws, which cannot be removed with a regular screwdriver. A thief, if he is a little clever, could remove them using a one-way screw remover, sold at Home Depot and elsewhere, and a cordless drill/driver, though it would be a bit noisy. In my unfinished basement, I mounted these on the inside of the window frames, using carriage bolts, which have a smooth head and can't be removed from the head-end at all. Just file out the round holes in the brackets to make them square.

A:  I used this on a full view storm door{ was worried about screen damage, or someone falling through it } and replaced the screws with cap bolts, cutting off the excess on the interior side and covering the ends with caps, I am going to install them on the outside of the windows using the same method.

A:  Vish, The window bar units are installed with non-reversing safety screws. Mounting bracket choices: Inside mount, surface mount, and 3" inch stand-off brackets. (purchased separately) Thank You, Grisham Bros.

A:  The screws are tamper resistant. They drive in with a special driver bit and are hard toget back out -- even if you make a mistake. Also, they are a deterrent, mine have stopped the the break ins so far.

A:  You get a specialty screw driver attachment for your drill to screw the one way screws in. They can not be unscrewed even with the tool you use to screw them in

A:  Because they come with security screws that can be turned counterclockwise.

A:  The screws provided cannot be unscrewed and removed after installation. I installed all of mine from the inside.

A:  The Window Guard comes with one-way screws and would be very difficult to remove. Recommend purchasing the optional quick release system if the window guard is installed on a widow that could be used in an emergency to exit the house. The system is easy to install and should take one hour or less to install.

A:  The 24” is the width of the 2 cross braces And the first upright bar is set in 3” on the cross brace on each side.

A:  Al, The 24" inch width is from tip to tip of the horizontal members, and can be cut to accommodate your opening and mounting application. Flush mount brackets are sold separately. Model # WB-FB W Internet #206463652 Store SKU #1001625332 Thank You, Grisham Bros.

A:  Jesse, Yes, the horizontal extensions would allow for 1 -2" removal of material. Thank You, Grisham Bros

A:  Yes, I used a sawzall.The brackets are square and they slide into the square tube.

A:  yes and this was exactly my application

A:  This has been done with many different style entry and screen doors. Difficult to answer with 100% certainty, without seeing your door. Must consider any obstructions on the door that would inhibit placement of the spear point window bars. Type of mounting brackets required, flush mount or standoff? Carriage bolts required of the proper length, with safety caps on the interior protrusion. Thank You, Grisham Bros.

A:  Yes, I installed these onto vinyl siding and aluminum siding and it worked fine on both.

A:  DIY52, It`s best to secure the window bar unit to the wall cavity framing. Not sure what type of sheathing is directly under the vinyl siding, but in most case would not be thick enough to fully fasten the unit properly. Thank You, Grisham Bros.

A:  Ardis, You have the ability to check stores on Home Depot.com that are stocking the item in the vicinity of where you live. Thank You, Grisham Bros.

A:  Home Depot on Swatara, ordered on line.

A:  I recommend Tapcon for masonry/concrete.

A:  Tony, The non-reversing safety screws that are supplied with the window bar mounting brackets are generally secured to a surrounding wood trim or directly to wall framing members. If applied to concrete, or brick, then masonry wall anchors would be required. Thank You, Grisham Bros

A:  Depends, if wood frame use wood screw with hecagon head and an anchor and if concrete use a tapcon screw.

A:  Drill holes in the bricks and put masonry anchors and screws.

A:  You need a "masonry" drill bit and preferably a hammer-drill. Then insert expandable anchors. I have used simple rotary drill motors with some good new masonry bits into concrete with no problem, I use simple plastic anchors for something like this but larger metal anchors might be required for larger bars.

A:  I loved the gate. Great quality for the price. My gates went into wood trim. Maybe ask a mason about what type of swrew for brink.

A:  There is no adjustment, however you may be able to mount on the surface - overlapping the window.

A:  No, they are not adjustable. It may be acceptable to you for the grill to overlap the window somewhat, or not quite cover it entirely.

A:  Hi Bonnie, I would call Home Depot. In general... I believe you can get the width of the window to extend with the attachments (we put on our INSIDE) but around 4 inches or so. The height is NOT adjustable. The price for what you get is really awesome. And the install on the inside was pretty easy. Make sure you get the right KIND of attachments... whether its flush mount or the L shape for a turn.

A:  The security bars are solid! They don't adjust. Take the window width and add 2 inches, then look for a set that is that wide. The anchors have arms that are 4 inches in length, so if your window is 34 + 2 you need a 36 wide bar set. The window frame in wood is about 1" outside the inside finished material. The studs that make up the window are 2-3 inches in depth. So you can use the 4" to adjust their position so you hit the wood stud frame when you put the anchor bolt on. In words: sheetRook(1/2)->frameAdjustSpace(~1/2)->windowFrame(34)-widowStud(1.5)->kingStud(1.5)----> 34.5-->38, you want to anchor at 35.5-37", you might have to trim off 1/2 inch of the side tube on the bars to hit the studs just right, or run the bolts at a slight angle towards the interior to catch all the "meat" of the stud. This is a bit of art here as you have to judge where the studs are in relation to the finished inside; a sonic stud finder on the inside will help judge this distance and how you run the bolts. So the width is fine on your chosen set. Here, the height of the window is 22, but the bars are 54, so just way to big. The issue is not the 12" above and below the windows the bars will hang over, but are the horizontal mounting bars where the anchors slide into, they will miss the window frame studs. Look for a bar set that is around 24-30" in height and you should be fine. The horizontal mounts are about 4-6 inches from the top and the bottom of the total length. You want those to fall inside the height of the window. Hope this diatribe was helpful.

A:  Bonnie, The 36" x 36" unit would be closer to the sizing required, but leaving residual height overlap of seven inches top and bottom. Custom unit can be made to specific sizing requirements. Please visit your local Home Depot, for assistance in processing your request. Thank You, Grisham Bros.

A:  height not adjustable. I don't know the various sizes but I bought 36" and was able to expand 3" both directions to attach.

A:  No they ate a fixed unit

A:  Yes it works great on Windows. And looks good .Best price for the money.

A:  Yes, best done with the use of concrete wall anchors. Thank You.

A:  Yes, pay attention to the type of mount you want for required brackets. You will need masonary drill bit and hammer drill.

A:  Yes, but you will want to overshoot the sides of the window to stay well away from the edge of the brick. I would suggest 4-6" on each side. Pre-drill the holes and drop in molly bolt with glue; DO NOT USE EXPANSION TYPE ANCHORS -- you will bust the brick.

A:  yes. lag shield and bolt, tapcon, even various adhesives available

A:  Yes, Make sure you DO NOT USE expanding bolts, use glue in. Expanding lugs will break brick. Mount them at least 4 in away from edge.

A:  I have no idea what you're talking about. It's not fake. I ordered mine with no problem, and it arrived on my doorstep in just a few days. It was easy to install and is exactly what I was looking for.