6 ft./72 in. Brushed Nickel Non-Bypass Sliding Barn Door Track and Hardware Kit for Double Doors

Very easy to install and very quiet smooth operation. Nice looking addition!

This review is for the HOMACER 5.5 ft./66 in. Brushed Nickel Non-Bypass Sliding Barn Door Track and Hardware Kit for Double Doors, Nickel/5.5ft Homacer company indeed does use better steel than other manufacturers. I have a set that I was going to use on a project until this arrived. Makes the other brand look really substandard. The nickel finish on this set is flawless. I ordered two sets and both are great, as well as the superior packaging. I mention this as shipping is where the damage occurs. You don't want to have to try and straighten a track. Now I have to get busy making the doors to go with this kit.

Beautiful and well-made hardware for a barn-style double door. I am starting to convert my attic into my kids' bedroom. I want to add built-in storage and closets, but due to the pitch of the roof I would have to make the closet door open into the room, which is not my first option because of the space it takes up. I decide to go with this barn door because it works best in the space and it's built very well - the main rail is about 7/32" and solid steel. Plus, it looks good and should provide many years of use, even after the kids eventually move out (fingers crossed).

I ordered two sets of Homacer barn door hardware—Models YT-2-5.5ft and YZ-2-5.5ft. There is one very important installation item that you need to know. See the end of the review. These sets install similarly but have differing looks so I want to give you a comparison as one ended up with a higher rating than the other. As the rating results are different, please be patient reading this. This review will cover Models YT-2 and YZ-2, both with 5.5 ft long rails. The T model has the conventional “U” top on the strap, so the roller is supported on two sides, while the Z Model has just a straight strap with the roller supported on one side. Two sets of roller/straps are included with each product which supports two doors each and up to 16-inches wide to cover an opening of 30-inches maximum. NEXT. The “Flat Track” is ¼ X 1-1/2” steel bar with holes for mounting to studs or a header. As it is not likely that the holes will line up with existing studs, so unless very light doors or it is new construction, you may need to open up the wall and install a new header or blocking between the studs. What I did not like is that there are two extra holes on each end of the tract that will not be used for installing the T and Z Models. The extra holes are to accommodate a “Junction Plate” that is needed to increase the length of the track to create tracks 9-feet and longer. The longest standard-length track appears to be 8-feet. The bar ends are sheared off crudely and are not pretty. See comments below about the end finish of the hangers. NEXT. If the Track spacers are mounted to the wall, you may have a trim interference problem. The company offers additional spacers upon request. If you mount the track on an external header, the thickness of the header will probably be enough to clear the trim. NEXT. These products are made in China, so I expected some metric components, especially with the nuts and bolts. The lag screws/bolts that attach the rail to the building structure are 8mm—about ¼” heavy—and 3.5” long. The bolts that attach the hanger/roller to the door are 10mm with washers and an acorn nut. When the nut is fully tightened, the distance between the washers is 1-11/16”. Subtracting the ¼” thick hanger, you have just under 1-1/2” left for the door. Most residential doors are 1-3/8” to 1-3/4” thick so if you have builder grade doors—like I do—that are 1-3/8” thick, you will need to shorten the bolts so that they will tighten up on the door. All the hardware is steel except for the door stops and rollers. The stops are die-cast aluminum, and the rollers are a plastic composition. The metal track, straps and stops have a powder-coated finish with the look of brushed stainless steel rather than nickel. The black rollers have an O.D. of 2.77” and the groove that sits on the rail is 2.29” in diameter. Being curious about whether the roller had a bearing inside, I disassembled the unit with a 14mm wrench and found a sealed ball bearing in the center of the roller. NEXT. One of the stops had residual casting flashing that needed to be filed down to slip over the track. See photo. NEXT. The ”U” Hangers for the T model are the same thickness as the rail whereas the straight strap is noticeably thinner by 0.010” to 0.020”—See photos. The “U” hanger projects ½” farther up than the straight hanger so if clearances are tight, the straight version might work best. Where the two models differ the most is in the quality of the cut ends of the hangers. The ends of the T model straps are very roughly sheared with no further finishing. One of the ends was so rough that it affected the application of the powder coating as evidenced by some rust starting to form in the crevices. The cut ends are very visible as they face downward. The end finish of the straight strap is much smoother, and the top is rounded perfectly smooth. The end finish is the reason why the “U” strap received a rating of 2 whereas the straight version received a 4. NEXT. I could not find weight capacity information listed under specifications, so I contacted the company via email and received a response one day later. Both the YT and the ZT rollers have the same weight capacity. According to the company, “they” usually say the hardware can carry 220lbs in total. However, if you can mount all lag bolts to a stud [or 2X header], then it can hold up to 300lbs. This is the total weight of all doors on the track—whether it be one or two. The rep went on to say that if you can secure a header board to the studs [on top of the drywall], then the hardware can also hold up to 300lbs. The pilot hole size for the 8mm lag screws is a 5/16" drill bit. FINALLY. A very important item that you need to know is that it will be necessary to make a ¼” X 13/16” deep grove in the bottom of the door for the single fin door guide—see Step 4. A double-sided guide would have eliminated this step as it will require someone experienced using a router with a guide to make the groove.

Easy to install look study

Easy to install and looks great!!