29 fl. oz. Sikaflex Self-Leveling Horizontal Joint Elastic Polyurethane Sealant in Gray

After trying a different, cheaper product (and failing after a year), I put this stuff in the cracks in my driveway. I balked at the price since it was many times more expensive, but ultimately hoped it would last and be worth the price. It's now 10 years later, and it still looks perfect, hasn't come out, and is still flexible. I finally decided to put this in the rest of the the expansion joints in my sidewalk. It's not a cheap product, but it's durable, and keeps the weeds from growing. Nothing else I've tried seems to be able to do that.

Have just installed the product, so can't comment on how well it lasts. The self leveling property was helpful when on a flat and level walk. Where there is a slope, the material required a bit of artistic touch to keep it from running out the low end. I recommend a thicker material property, so it flows slower. And a quicker initial set time, to slow it from running out. Might consider the sealant with sand mix, to slow it down. Thank you

I sealed concrete cracks and seams with this stuff. The caulk has never cracked by itself, and has never separated from the concrete after over 4 yrs of weather. Love this product, but it should come with better installation instructions. Here are mine after working with over 20 large tubes of it: 1. Clean the area well!!! Powerwash the surface to be sealed/leveled. If you don't, the dirty or moldy surface will prevent the caulk from adhering. 2. The stuff isn't cheap, so fill all cracks with sand which can pack tight, up to about 1/2-3/4" from the top of your concrete. The backer rod I never used, as irregularities in the concrete are likely to make a poor fit in areas, and the backer rod compresses more than sand does. 3. Let the area dry as directed, and make sure rain isn't in the forecast. 4. When laying caulk in a crack/seem, especially a deep one, lay the caulk in the very middle of the crack and permit the caulk to fan out to the edges. You can keep adding caulk on top of the middle to bring it up to level. If you try to fill the crack completely as you go, you may caulk over air, and cause bubble-ups in your caulk line. Mine developed bubble-ups in certain areas, and i found out why. On hot days, the bubbles won't come out because the outer caulk will set and prevent the air from leaving. 5. I have used this caulk in near vertical areas, but I had to apply it in thin layers and allow it to dry before adding another coat to build thickness. It helps when its hot out. 6. To match the surrounding surfaces ( like concrete), just find a type of sand that matches as best as possible, and after you put the caulk down, just gently drop a thin layer of sand over it. Some of the finer sand will get sucked down into the caulk, while others will stay on top. I add some every few minutes to areas where the sand sunk. Adding this will prevent the finished caulk surface from being solid shiny gray, which doesn't match almost anything. The sand will give it texture and some color matching to adjacent surfaces. The photos show where I did and didn't add sand to the top. They also show some bubbles in the surface. 7. Follow instructions for thickness of finished caulk, but try to keep the caulk below the surrounding surface, because if you shovel snow, or the frost heave pushes the caulk out for some reason, you won't scrape up your caulk job and ruin it. Good luck!

After years of use this time something went wrong! The sealant gots bubbles, air inside and the profile looked like a hill not flat than all the time before! Hi Sika what have you changed in your formula?

This product works well in applications such as between concrete slabs in walk ways where old expansion joints have deteriorated. However it does NOT do well in areas subject to pool chemicals such as chlorine more than 5ppm according to a Sika Senior Technical Service Specialist. In my case, the casting shock granules (54% trichloro-s-trazientrione) along the edge of the pool probably caused the softening of the cured sealant material when some of the small granules became wet. The softened sealant never re-cured and sticks to bare feet.

While the product is fairly easy to apply and flows/levels nicely, the product varies drastically between different tubes. I purchased 12 - 29 oz tubes (6 grey and 6 tan). 2 tubes of each color were as expected. 3 of each color were marbled when coming out of the tube (gray or tan with white streaks, like it wasn't mixed properly), and 1 tube of each had clear liquid coming out of the tube for the first third of the tube. Looked like oil. Very poor product quality control. I'm hoping the marble won't affect the durability.

Applied 4 tubes on a 70 degree day in September to driveway and garage slab cracks about 1/4 to 1/3" wide. Fast forward to 5 months later and not even out of winter and the sika material is split down the middle. Will buy something else next time. It did adhere well to the crack sidewalls and self level well, so not the worst product out there.

Works much better than Quickrete brand. A little thicker, than the others, so a little harder to get out of tube, but well worth it. Quickrete is too runny, and wont stop flowing. First pic is part of my driveway I did with Sika brand, the other two with Quickrete brand. (Home Depot ran out)

Stuff works very well. It IS very liquid so be prepared with rags and maybe some filler for the areas you are patching. The viscosity is its self-leveling aspect . Works great, sets up hard.

Does exactly what it says it will do.