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With back-wired and side-wired installation options, the Leviton 20 Amp 3-Way Commercial Toggle Switch is recommended for use by electricians and contractors in heavily-used areas of commercial buildings, schools, offices and homes. The UL-listed toggle switch is designed for use with a second 3-way switch (not included) in a 3-way circuit to provide light control from 2 locations.
Dimensions: H 4.188 in, W 1.625 in, D 1.688 in
Product Depth (in.) | 1.688 in |
|---|---|
Product Height (in.) | 4.188 in |
Product Width (in.) | 1.625 in |
Amperage (A) | 20 A |
|---|---|
Circuit Connection | 3-Way |
Color Family | White |
Color/Finish | White |
Compatible Bulb Type | CFL, Halogen, Incandescent, LED |
Control Function | Light |
Control Style | Toggle |
Features | No Additional Features |
Finish Type | Matte |
Material | Nylon |
Package Quantity | 1 |
Returnable | 90-Day |
Voltage (V) | 277 V |
Wall Plate Included | No Wall Plate |
Manufacturer Warranty | 10-Year Limited |
|---|
1 3 way switch would need to have the line hot / incoming power connected to the black terminal, then 1 traveler to each of the brass terminals. Other switch would connect the load wire (wire going to what the switch is controlling, ex: light) to the 2nd 3 way switch's black terminal, then 1 traveler to each of the brass terminals.
It’s rated at 12 amps at 120 volts. Based on its rating you should be good up to 2400 watts.
120
The switch in the picture is labeled 15 Amp. So to get the wattage you multiply 15 times the voltage (probably 120 volt) 15 x 120 = 1,800 Watts. If it's rated 20 Amp it would be 20 x 120 Volts or 2,400 Watts. Never use the maximum rating the life of the device is shortened considerably. 80% or rated wattage is safe.
No. This is a "three way" switch. The switch works with another of the same type so either of two switches, like top and bottom of the stairs, can turn the lights on or off. Either position can be on or off depending on position of the other switch.
No
No, it's only rated for 20 amps or less. Typically 10 gauge wire is for a higher amp rating.
You may, if you work really hard, manage to cram the bare wire under the clamp in the screws. These are 20 amp switches and designed for 14 or 12 gauge wire. The switch itself, as mentioned and clearly marked on the box and on the HD webpage, is designed for up to 20 amps. 10 gauge is designed for 30 amps. I think you would be well advised to either hire an electrician or at least buy a switch that is appropriate to the wire size.
Home depot carry's them or or a wholesale electrician supply vendor in your area. Internet search for your town.
Electrician supply in your town or on line
they seemed to be to me also. I used the screw lugs.
I recommend using the screw terminal and avoiding the strip and poke option.
There are no "holes" to insert a wire into on this switch. You can feed it straight under the clamp and tighten down the screw (back-wire), Or you can side-wire loop the wire around the screw terminal itself and tighten down. Please refer to the included instructions or call 800-824-3005 for further assistance.
Cut and strip 1/2 inch from the end. Insert the wire behind the screw. Tighten down the screw and the wire will he secure. This switch will handle 12 or 14 gauge solid copper wire really easy.
12AWG should not be a problem for back wiring.
Yes, 12 gauge will work easily with this switch. There are actually no insertion hole. The straight end of the wire lays under the brass seat used for the side mount attachment. Then you just tighten the screw, same as with the side mount. Hope this helps you.
12 or 14 gauge wire will work fine. It has to be solid copper
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