Pro Select R-Matte Plus-3, 2 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. R-13.1 Foam Insulation Board

Worked for my vaulted ceilings.

Best I could find. Cuts easy and cleanly.

Cuts like normal foam. Not so itching as well.

The insulation performance is great and product is easy use.

Awesome stuff!!!! Added it to an old 2x4 exterior wall being refinished inside to more than double the insulation value. Marked where my electrical lines were then used construction glue and 3 1/4" screws to hold the sheetrock and insulation to the studs. Really helped lower noise coming from outside too. Used a battery powered jig saw to cut smooth edges which created quite a bit of air-born particulate, so definitely use a dust mask & goggles if you have them.

I am finishing my basement and was researching the best option for R-Value, water proof and ease of use. The Rmax Thermasheath did the trick. It was easy to install, has a higher R-value than other rigid foam insulation and could be put directly on basement walls. After installing on all of the walls and sealing with the recommended tape, our basement temperature jumped by 5-6 degrees from 54-55 up to 60-61 degrees. One note, the insulation is 2" thick so you will need an extra long utility knife blade to cut. Using a saw works too but makes a lot of extra mess.

Used to build cover for attic stairs. Easy to cut and provides good heat shielding. Board was slightly warped which made air-sealing somewhat difficult.

I can only speak of the constructibility of the product, not its performance since it's my first use of it, but it seems to be working great for my basement finishing project. My basement is CIP concrete, 2400 SF, with 9' walls, TJI ceiling joists and wafer board engineered rim joist. I'm hoping this product will provide a vapor barrier while partially insulating the basement walls, mud sill and rim joist. I will be building 2 x 4 wall framing with a 1" air gap between framing and the foam board, and then installing kraft faced FG insulation in the stud cavities for a total R value of 26-ish, which is probably overkill. I couldn't find any fasteners specifically for securing foam board, so I used 2 @ 1/4" x 1-1/4" washers, 3-1/8" No. 10 screws with cheap 1/4" x 1-1/2" plastic anchors along the panel centerline and foam board glue to secure panels to the basement walls. A 1/4" carbide masonry bit with a 12 volt rechargeable drill for the anchor holes worked ok, but a hammer drill would have been better. Applied thin bead of glue 6" in from panel perimeter, around screw holes and down panel centerline, which got me about 2-1/2 panels per each 10 oz tube of glue. Panels are bowed due to shipping/storage, so I installed them concave side against the basement walls so panels are drawn in toward walls when screws were tightened, making better glue contact. Make sure to chisel off concrete burrs from walls before installing panels so uniform contact can be made, as well as addressing any water leaks. Installed panels vertically with 3/4" gap above floor, leaving about 9" of exposed concrete at top of the wall which I filled in to the bottom flanges of the TJIs with 9" strips cut with a rip hand saw, which worked fine. Any thin-bladed saw should work. Serrated steak knife or fillet knife works great for intricate cuts (just don't tell your wife). I sprayed a bead of great stuff on butt joints before installing the 9" strip. I made a template for the rim joist cavities, cut them out of the foam board, and glued them into the rim joist cavities with a 1/4" perimeter gap, which I then spray foam sealed with great stuff gap filler. I used the spray foam around wiring and plumbing penetrations, and filled the 1/2" floor gap to lock everything in. I ran out of foam board, so I cut up remaining scraps and covered the mud sill with them. Ideally I should have bought the bulk spray foam kits to seal the mud sill, but that stuff is spendy. Warnings: the foil backing is very fragile and the saw dust goes everywhere and will make you cough and gag, so wear a dust mask if you can stand them (I can't).

Amazing product this is the standard for high performance insulation. Very easy to work with for my first time,score and snap like drywall or use very large dewalt razor knife and straightedge to cut all the way thru. I taped seams using 3m 8088 or Siga wigluv and fastened with 3.5'' deck screws and Rodenhouse Plasti-Grip ci Prong Washer. It should be available at every HD but its not. Closest in stock HD to me was 1200 miles away so I drove and got a full penske truck load. 1 pallet special order minimum at my New Orleans HD and $13more per sheet not cool! But its the best price thru HD for polyiso anywhere.

I insulated a laundry room with the R13 foam board and the job came out great. The cold room is now warm. Much easier than framing and sheetrocking. It is still hard work to move all of the electrical and plumbing, but was made easier using Sharkbite couplings. Not so bad. Homeowners were very pleased with the end result. Material is strong enough to adhere strips of wood for shelving. Tape seems with clear tape. Adhere to wall with large construction adhesive. Much more cost effective over spray on foam. Use hand saw to cut material. Cut outside as there will be thousands of foam particles that will fall off. I will use again. Material is waterproof and is reflective on both sides. A plus.