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Cleans heater coils thoroughly. Restores pressure and circulation in minutes, with no strong odor. Calci-Free is a unique, economical, biodegradable cleaner containing a combination of organic, inorganic and corrosion inhibiting ingredients. It is easy to use and works twice as fast as other cleaners. Use it for routine cleaning to remove calcium and other solid deposits from heating coils.
Dimensions: H 6.2 in, W 2.5 in, D 2.5 in
Product Depth (in.) | 2.5 in |
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Product Height (in.) | 6.2 in |
Product Width (in.) | 2.5 in |
Finish Family | White |
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Material | Mixed |
Pack Size | 1 |
Product Type | Tool |
Returnable | 90-Day |
Manufacturer Warranty | Limited Warranty |
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I am sorry I cannot answer your question as I do not know what appliance you have. Therefore, I do not have the manual so that I can look up what an I2 code is. Error or Fault codes are not universal across all appliances and manufacturers. I would suggest you look up the code in the manual find out what that cod indicates before taking any action.
I am very perplexed by your question because scaling in a radiant heating system should not be possible. Scale is a buildup of minerals the same as “soap scum”. These minerals are a contaminant found in some portable water. Potable water should never be used in a radiant heating system. That would be extremely unsanitary. Radiant heating systems need to be closed loop. That means they use the same water, which is devoid of oxygen, over and over for years. Based on this contradiction, I am at a loss as to exactly what you have and would need more information before I can render an opinion. You are welcome to give me a call. As to vinegar, I have used it to remove mineral deposits on toilets. It is effective but will often take days if not weeks to break up minerals. Chris 978 651 3301
That would depend on the nature and severity of the scale. If scale buildup has reached a point where the hot water output has diminished to the point that the customer calls me, I typically use the entire contents. I do not prophylactically descale units as part of periodic maintenance. I see no reason to expose a heat exchanger to acid if no symptoms of scale have been experienced. The chemistry and nature of water born contaminants vary greatly by geography. So, the nature of the scale also varies by region. I have talked to plumbers in other areas of the country that do not use the entire contents when decaling. They know from experience that the scale created by their water comes off quite easily. But as mentioned, I use the entire contents but do not use it annually. I use it only where there has been a decrease in performance created by scale on the heat exchanger.
I plumb in an area where the water has a high mineral content. As a result, I use this product a lot. In my own home I use it almost every 12 to 16 months. I know the coil needs to be cleaned because it is covered with scale when I just don’t get enough hot water. It’s a powerful acid. You should follow the directions and precautions carefully. After the flush is complete i find the acid to be less caustic than when I started. However, it is still reactive. Therefore, I further dilute the two gallons of solution. I pour half the solution, or one gallon into a five-gallon bucket with four additional gallons of water. Then I let the water run for a minute before and while I flush it down the drain. I then dilute and dispose of the second gallon the same way. When that is done, I continue to run water down the drain for a few minutes afterwards to rinse out any residue that might be in the drainpipes. Acidic water sitting in the drainpipes is what gives me the biggest concern, so I make sure to run the water after disposal to make sure it gets cleared out. As the average septic tank is 950 gallons it effectively dilutes the acid to the point where I am no longer concerned. I have never seen or heard of this product being a problem when disposed of in that manor. I think most plumbers would consider these precautions to be extreme but considering the costs involved I think it better to be safe than sorry.
The acidic property of the solution breaks down over time. Therefore, I would not reuse the solution as its efficacy will be diminished. However, a plumber I have learned that water quality varies tremendously by location. In some locations scaling is so prevalent that scale needs to be dealt with annually and in others where it never builds up. I don’t descale a piece of equipment except when its decreased performance requires it. If the unit is performing properly, I don’t perform an unnecessary descaling process.
It is hard for me to give you a definitive answer based on such limited information so you may want to give me a call so that I can get specific information about your home. Water heaters do not make water smell. The heating of the water may exacerbate odor, but it does not cause it. Odor usually stems from containment in the water. Bacteria can feed on this contaminant and give off sulfurous selling gas as part of its waste. The heating of the water can excite the bacteria and make the problem more noticeable. I have also run into situations where contaminant in the water reacts chemically to other materials in the water heater, such as an aluminum or magnesium anode rode and gives off a noxious odor. In this situation bacteria are not involved; the process is purely chemical. The solution to these problems depends on the nature of the continent. You can certainly have the water tested to find out what is causing this and what is involved in its removal. But I would start by speaking to your neighbors or the water department. Chances are your neighbors will have the same problem and that a best practice to solve the problem has already been established. If you are on a well, I would speak to one of the prominent well drillers or sellers of well supplies in your area, they should also be very familiar with the water in your area. I have run into situations where the solution has been as simple as changing the anode rod in the water heater, or decontaminating a well with bleach to others where a series of filtration devises has been needed. But let me reiterate, I have never run into a situation where the water heater was the cause of the smell. The source of the smell has always been the water. A parallel situation is what is called “soap scum”. Soap scum has nothing to do with soap. Soap scum is the buildup of minerals found in untreated water onto plumbing fixtures. The solution is not a different soap. The solution is cleaner water. Chris 978 651 3301
I am sorry but I cannot give you a definitive answer as I am not an authority on Rheem product. I would suggest you consult you manual on what product it recommends for descaling or give Rheem a call. It would be a good idea to have the model number and serial number of the unit handy. It will appear on the units rating plate.
Yes, it can be used in all tankless water heaters. Just do a good flush before reconnecting the plumbing for regular use.
With this product the term flush is referring to the fact that it is a descaling product. So you would just use this. However, as a plumber I want to also point out what I believe to be a common misconception. Many people seem to think they must descale there units annually. I have found that not to be the case. Water quality varies tremendously throughout the country. With wells it can even vary house to house. I do not recommend prophylactically flushing or descaling units on a set schedule just for the heck of it. Unless of course you know based on prior experience that it must be done based on your water conditions. Experience has taught me that some areas the water quality will require that you do it much more frequently than others. And in some areas it may not be required at all. When scale builds up it will diminish heat transfer as well as water flow. If the water is not getting as hot as it used to or the flow has diminished, this may be a sign of buildup. However when these issues are not present, I typically elect not to do it out of concern that these acids could damage the heat exchanger. Lastly recently I serviced a unit that was still producing plenty of hot water and flow. But it had recently begun to make a howling noise. After adjusting the gas valve with a magnehelic the sound was still present. So the manufacturer recommended that I flush the unit. To my surprise this did correct the problem. It also got the efficiency back to factor settings. I know this contradicts what I have said but I am still reluctant to introduce acids into heat exchangers when it is not needed. If you do use this or other similar products make sure to flus the unit out when done. I will typically hook the unit up to a garden house and run fresh water through it for fifteen minutes.
For tankless units Yes as recommended by manufacturer.
Just use the descaling.then flush with just water.
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