|Actual Product Length (ft.)||8 ft||Actual Product Thickness (in.)||.75|
|Actual Product Width (in.)||1.5||Coverage Area (sq. ft.)||1|
|Nominal Product Length (ft.)||8||Nominal Product Thickness (in.)||1|
|Nominal Product Width (in.)||2|
|Appearance Board Type||Softwood Boards||Board Joint Type||Square Edge|
|Fastener recommendation||Nails, screws or glue||Features||No Additional Features|
|Finish Type||Unfinished||Lumber Grade||Select|
|Material||Wood||Moisture content||Kiln Dried|
|Number Of Boards Per Pack||104||Texture||Smooth|
|Manufacturer Warranty||See store for details|
A: I suppose it could be used in a pinch for a flooring. I'd sand the corners a bit to lessen the chance for splinters. Screw them down using a small head cabinet screw. Maybe use some biscuits and a biscuit joiner to help with alignment. Or if you had a router table or table saw you could create a rabbet joint. Then you could use something like the Kreg deck jig to install hidden screws. I'd wait till they were all down, then use a floor sander to eliminate uneven matches, then stain and seal with poly. There might be some cupping, so make sure you pay attention and set the board so the cup is upside down (IE "Crowned" with the edges lower) This will keep the edges down, and help keep gaps from opening or sharp splinter prone ridges from rising up. The sanding would be on the center "crown" field of the board instead of the edges. Google crowning lumber. Crowning is easier to live with than cupping. Also make sure you some sort of underlayment paper. Other wise, no matter how many screws you use, it'll squeak. Not to mention - pine is a soft wood so it'll "dent" and mar easily. Oak, maple, walnut are much better suited (although very expensive) options. So, like with most things in construction - yes, it COULD work, but.....there's lots more cons that pros in my opinion. All that said, I'd sure take a close look at actual flooring products, there are thousands of options, some will give the "aged, rustic" look you want and are designed with cupping, crowning, squeaking all but eliminated and those are true systems that in include things like transition & trim pieces and other accessories that will make for a better finished product. And, with the price of lumber being what it is lately, probably a much more affordable option.
A: Hello, You could ,but it is not treated /or/ more for interior use / finish work. For planter boxes you should use exterior grade lumber.
A: Sure, but it's very expensive and there are better options. First, pressure treated wood will last much longer. Second, a piece of 1 x 8, 1 x 10, or 1 x 12 would be much simpler to cut and assemble. Secure the corners with 3-inch deck screws and don't worry about installing a bottom. You could also reinforce the corners with a piece of 2 x 4.
A: You COULD use it to make cutting boards, but it's a pine wood and won't hold up well to knives, it also tends to expand & contract with moisture so glue joints will fail. Typically, cutting boards are made from hardwoods - Maple, Oak etc. Cutting boards need to be treated with food safe stains, sealers and glues. Do not use regular oil based stain or polyurethane/varnish/lacquer etc to seal. Most people use mineral oil rubbed in or food safe specific finishes available at speciality stores. There's lots of video's on making cutting boards on Youtube. Hope this helps.
A: I've used it both ways. For regular "stuff" I just sand, stain and poly. For a really nice finish, use sanding sealer to raise the grain, then sand, stain and poly. I use an oil based stain from MinWax, followed by several coats of Polyurethane, scuffing between coats, to finish. Hope this helps.
A: The answer is no, but expect to give it about 3 coats, with light sanding in between.
A: No just sand off the rough edges and you are ready to stain.