Model # 39094-HD

Internet #100497072

Store SKU #390073

null Distinction 32 in. x 60 in. x 60 in. 3-Piece Easy Up Adhesive Tub Wall in High Gloss White
0720416002961

Distinction 32 in. x 60 in. x 60 in. 3-Piece Easy Up Adhesive Tub Wall in High Gloss White

  • 3-piece bathtub wall system
  • Includes 3 shelves and 2 towel bars for storage
  • Easy installation
$23800 /each
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Frequently Bought Together

Product Overview

  • 3-piece bathtub wall system
  • Includes 3 shelves and 2 towel bars for storage
  • Easy installation
The Distinction easy-up adhesive bathtub wall set is a great way to update any bathroom. This 3-piece wall set fits bathtub alcoves up to 60 in. W x 310 in. D, ensuring a proper fit around your bathtub. The high gloss white wall set features a 4 in. x 4 in. hammered tile-like appearance for added style and 3 shelves with 2 integrated towel bars for added convenience and storage.
  • 3-piece bathtub wall set; easy-up adhesive installation
  • Adhesive wall set and easy to install
  • Poly composite material that is easy to clean
  • 4 in. x 4 in. hammered tile-like appearance for a classic tile style
  • Install to 1/2 in. (13 mm) drywall or water-resistant drywall, do not install panels over existing ceramic tile or plywood
  • Install surface must be free of dirt, film, waxes, wallpaper or any other residues; painted surfaces must be sanded
  • Recommended adhesive: DAP 3.0, RD 3000, and ECO-BOND

Product Overview

  • 3-piece bathtub wall system
  • Includes 3 shelves and 2 towel bars for storage
  • Easy installation
Model #: 39094-HD
Sku #: 390073
Internet #: 100497072

The Distinction easy-up adhesive bathtub wall set is a great way to update any bathroom. This 3-piece wall set fits bathtub alcoves up to 60 in. W x 310 in. D, ensuring a proper fit around your bathtub. The high gloss white wall set features a 4 in. x 4 in. hammered tile-like appearance for added style and 3 shelves with 2 integrated towel bars for added convenience and storage.

  • 3-piece bathtub wall set; easy-up adhesive installation
  • Adhesive wall set and easy to install
  • Poly composite material that is easy to clean
  • 4 in. x 4 in. hammered tile-like appearance for a classic tile style
  • Install to 1/2 in. (13 mm) drywall or water-resistant drywall, do not install panels over existing ceramic tile or plywood
  • Install surface must be free of dirt, film, waxes, wallpaper or any other residues; painted surfaces must be sanded
  • Recommended adhesive: DAP 3.0, RD 3000, and ECO-BOND

Info & Guides

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Specifications

Dimensions

Product Depth (in.)
32
Product Height (in.)
60
Product Width (in.)
60
Wall Height (in.)
60
Wall Width (in.)
60

Details

Caulkless
No
Color Family
White
Color/Finish
White
Construction
Three piece
Material
Composite
Product Weight (lb.)
35lb
Returnable
90-Day
Shower Type
Tub
Surface Type
Smooth
Wall Installation Type
Glue-up

Warranty / Certifications

Certifications and Listings
No Certifications or Listings
Manufacturer Warranty
Limited 1-Year Warranty Residential & Commercial

Specifications

Dimensions

Product Depth (in.)
32
Product Height (in.)
60
Product Width (in.)
60
Wall Height (in.)
60
Wall Width (in.)
60

Details

Caulkless
No
Color Family
White
Color/Finish
White
Construction
Three piece
Material
Composite
Product Weight (lb.)
35lb
Returnable
90-Day
Shower Type
Tub
Surface Type
Smooth
Wall Installation Type
Glue-up

Warranty / Certifications

Certifications and Listings
No Certifications or Listings
Manufacturer Warranty
Limited 1-Year Warranty Residential & Commercial

Questions & Answers

Are the holes for the pipes already cut

Asked by: Meka
No, you must cut your own holes to match your faucets.
Answered by: Ghost
Date published: 2017-07-31

what caulk should I use to fill the gap between the surround and the tub?

I have a 2/3" uneven gap due to the walls construction and don't know how to fill it. It is between 1/8 up to 1/2 inch gap between the tub lip and the surround. I have no idea how or with what I should fill it. Any help would be appreciated.
Asked by: Domino9
You cannot use Silicone since it will not stick to the surround properly. I used Dap3 which is a little bit of a pain to use but it stuck like it never going to come loose.
Answered by: Ghost
Date published: 2017-06-20

Does it glue to the studs or the dry wall

Does it glue to the studs or the dry wall
Asked by: Robb
It's designed to glue to drywall. It has nice edges that sit nicely on drywall.
Answered by: CarlB
Date published: 2018-01-10

Can I install shower doors with this surround?

Can I install shower doors with this surround?
Asked by: cmmrf1
You can install shower door with or without. This particular surround looks nice but commit to doing a dry run of the walls before final glueing. On my bathroom the towel holders on the walls do not line up with my tub spout or valves so that's why I did not install after all
Answered by: Ggrimaldo
Date published: 2017-10-14
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Customer Reviews

Distinction 32 in. x 60 in. x 60 in. 3-Piece Easy Up Adhesive Tub Wall in High Gloss White is rated 3.0 out of 5 by 48.
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Full Installation Instructions Follow I read all the reviews and questions before buying this pro... Full Installation Instructions Follow I read all the reviews and questions before buying this product for a complete bathroom remodel with a 60-inch bathtub. The product looks nice, but you should look at the specifications for the EXACT sizes for each section. I am pleased with the installation and THOROUGHLY read all of the reviews and questions BEFORE starting my install. I was troubled by some reviewers' comments about poor adhesion and believe the right combination of adhesive and surface prep will eliminate most if not all of the issues. Notes: - The product comes in three pieces. The center section is "flat" and the two ends have a molded 90-degree corner and then go about another 2 inches or so to either either overlap the back piece or you can have a butt joint. I chose an overlap of about 3/4-inch on each end, with the left and right ends overlapping the center / back section. - The product has been stamped or heat molded from a heavy-gauge plastic-like material. The "tile" faces are at a different level than the "grout joints" when the panels lay flat. Thus the only "bearing surfaces" are the simulated grout joints, the edges of the panels, and the backs of the molded accessory trays. These will contact a flat surface. - My installation had a large window opening on the back side that required significant cutting. - Regardless of what the instructions say, I installed the back panel first, then the two end panels. - SURFACE PREP AND CLEANLINESS IS CRITICAL! Installation Tools and Materials: - 8, 10-ounce tubes Loctite Power Grab bath surround adhesive (this material is white so it blends in nicely with the panels). I used 4 for the back panel and 2 for each end panel. - 4 paint stirring sticks (these are about 1/8-inch thick, 1-inch wide, and 12-inches long). - Dremel tool with an abrasive cutting disc and a metal cutting tool (this looks like a small drill) to cut the panels and to cut the holes for the faucet pipes. - 4-foot level. - LOTS of 2X4 lumber and 2-1/2 inch screws. Installation: 1. Prepare a wood frame to put pressure on the back panel when it's glued in place: I cut two 2X4 to about 5-feet long and attached them vertically to studs that were at the left and right ends of the tub with the wide side against the wall. I used lots of screws since there would be a lot of sideways pressure against these vertical 2X4. I cut four short (8-inch or so) 2X4 and attached them to the short sides of the vertical 2X4 as cleats, down at the bottoms and about 4 inches from the tops. I put a temporary 2X4 vertically against the back wall in the corner and measured the distance from this to the 2X4 that was screwed to the end wall. I then cut 2 2X4 to this measurement plus a bit to serve as wedges when the back panel was put in place. I repeated for the other end of the tub. 2. Mark the position of the back section: I dry-fitted the back section and marked the left and right sides with a pencil, then used a level to confirm that the lines I drew were really true. Since my tub is 60-inches wide and there's a piece of 1/2-inch greenboard on each end, my back wall is 59 inches wide, so I had about 1-5/8 inches on each side that the back panel did not cover. 3. Prepare the back wall: I had drywall compound on the greenboard of the back wall, so I wiped this thoroughly with a damp sponge. I did this several times to ensure that there was no dust on the back wall. I CANNOT SAY THIS ENOUGH... THE WALL SURFACE MUST BE ABSOLUTELY CLEAN OR THE ADHESIVE WON'T STICK TO IT VERY WELL. 4. Rough cut the window opening: I used the Dremel tool with an abrasive disc to rough cut the window opening, leaving about 2-inches of slop. doing this also enabled me to see where I would need to apply adhesive. My cuts totaled about 8 feet (left, bottom, and right) and took about 30 minutes. Be patient and take your time. 5. Apply adhesive: Contrary to the instructions, I laid the back panel flat on a bed - finish side down - and applied adhesive to the "grout lines" in a thick bead. The result was that I had a cross-hatch pattern of adhesive that formed 4-inch squares. I put a thick bead of adhesive on the back of the "soap dish" area, and I put thick "blobs" of adhesive in every "tile" that was along an edge. 6. Apply adhesive to the tub-wall joint: Per the instructions, I put a thick bead of adhesive along the joint between the tub and the back wall. I was not concerned about excess adhesive oozing out when I pressed the panel in place as it's easily cleaned up with a utility knife when it hardens. I then put two paint-stirring sticks on the tub as 1/8-inch spacers. 7. Put the back panel in place: I put the back panel against the back wall, aligned it with my reference lines, and - starting from the bottom - pressed it into place to ensure good contact between the "grout seams" where the adhesive was with the wall. As soon as I finished doing this, I put a 2X4 flat against the corner and wedged the shorter 2X4s that I cut previously between this vertical 2X4 and the 2X4 and cleats that I screwed to the side wall previously. Wedging these 2X4 horizontally in place put considerable pressure on the right side of the back panel. I then repeated with the left side. When the 4 (left side top and bottom, and right side top and bottom) 2X4 wedges were in place, I continued to press the center of the panel against the wall to ensure good adhesion. 8. Wait.... I did nothing else for 24 hours. Then I removed the 2X4 wedges and the vertical 2X4 that were screwed to the two side walls. 9. Prepare ANOTHER set of 2X4 braces with cleats for the two end panels so when they're glued in place you can wedge them in place. 10. Mark the position for the left and right panels, and check the lines and the corners to to ensure everything is true. 11. Mark and cut the holes for the water pipes: Again, I used the Dremel tool, this time with a bit that looked a bit like a drill bit. I was able to use this bit to plunge cut through the panel, then just make a circle for each pipe. 12. Prepare the left and right walls by wiping them thoroughly to ensure there's no drywall dust. 13. Apply adhesive: As in Step 5, I laid the side panels flat on a bed and applied adhesive to the "grout lines" in a thick bead. The result was that I had a cross-hatch pattern of adhesive that formed 4-inch squares. I put a thick bead of adhesive on the backs of the "soap dish" areas, and I put thick "blobs" of adhesive in every "tile" that was along an edge. 14. Apply adhesive to the tub-wall joint: Per the instructions, I put a thick bead of adhesive along the joint between the tub and the back wall. I was not concerned about excess adhesive oozing out when I pressed the panel in place as it's easily cleaned up with a utility knife when it hardens. I then put two paint-stirring sticks on the tub as spacers (2 on the left and 2 on the right). 15. Put the side panels in place: I put the side panels against the left and right walls and - starting from the bottom, pressed them into place to ensure good contact between the "grout seams" where the adhesive was with the wall. As soon as I finished doing this, I put the vertical 2X4 in place and wedged them in place with the 2X4 that I cut previously. Wedging these 2X4 horizontally in place put considerable pressure on the left and right side panels. When the 2X4 wedges were in place, I continued to press the left and right panels against the wall for about 10 minutes to ensure good adhesion. 16. WAIT... AGAIN... Wait.... I did nothing else for 24 hours. Then I removed the 2X4 wedges. 17. Apply the nice white Loctite Power Grab as "caulk" on all edges and seams per the instructions. I did NOT use any silicone as it doesn't adhere well to the material.
Date published: 2017-10-21
Rated 4 out of 5 by from I just finished installing this tub surround in the bathroom we are remodeling. I was hesitant at... I just finished installing this tub surround in the bathroom we are remodeling. I was hesitant at first with the fake tile look but I must say that after installation, it really looks nice. I was also pleased with how thick this surround was compared to many others that I have seen. When installing, I used the Loctite Power Grab Express glue. I changed the instructions somewhat in that the instructions say to spread the glue on the wall and then stick the surround panel to this glue. But, this means that since this surround has fake grout lines that extend past the flat portion of the tile, the only part of the surround that would touch the glue would be the grout lines. Instead of following their instructions, I did what another poster suggested and applied a heavy bead of Loctite to all of the grout lines on the back of the surround. Plus, I put a big "blob" of glue in the center of all of the tiles that are around the entire edge of the surround panels. The back panel (the long one) must go on first since the side panels overlap the back panel and are beveled to meet the flat back panel. I also filled up the back of the shelves with expanding foam and let it dry before installation to make the shelves more rigid. For the complete installation, I used 8 tubes of Loctite. 4 for the back panel and 2 for each of the side panels. Overall, I am very happy with this surround and it adds a little more interest to our renovation than a plain flat surround would do.
Date published: 2017-06-19
Rated 5 out of 5 by from I like the look of the product. Bright and clean! Beautiful! *The walls are thick and not flimsy like other products. *I bought this surround wall not only for the quality of the product but also for the shelves. However, after installation and use, I don't like the shelves on the long/middle panel. Water sits on the shelves after the shower, so I have to wipe them off after each shower. Not a big deal; just don't leave your soap on one of these shelves. It's okay for bottles. *I cut a window out of the long panel. It was best to use a jig saw instead of a utility knife. *I found it best to use Loctite instead of Liquid Nails for the adhesive. Loctite was quick. Liquid Nails took hours and lots of pressure for it to adhere.
Date published: 2013-10-11
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Great product, but very delicate This is a very good product for the price. I have installed about 6 of these now in my rentals. 1st one came out okay, using a skill saw to cut with appropriate blade. BUT after trying different techniques installing them is a breeze and are perfect regardless if walls are square. You will have the same problem with any surround and tile when walls are not square (and they most likely will not be square). Cons: Very poor packaging. Pull the panels out before leaving store. 50% chance they will be damaged. Pros: Nice looking, clean easily and now install very easily. From experience, the best way to cut this product is to use a belt sander. Works great! My walls were not square and had to trim all 3 panels to make the squares line up. Dry fit the panels, make your lines with a marker (comes off with alcohol) Put the panels on a flat surface and sand off the amount you need to remove. Take a file and smooth off edges and then fine sand paper block to re-establish a rounded edge. It is true that the side panels have a finished edge and if you cut them it will remove the rounded edge. I used a file to re-round the edge and it looks great. Re-dry fit and then proceed to glue with recommended Grab glue (con: I used 3 - 4 tubes per panel)
Date published: 2012-02-18
Rated 4 out of 5 by from Great for Rentals and Looks great I wanted something that had a tile look and not like a big sheet of plastic. My first ever installation went fine. Based on comments, brought along lots of Loctite (you can always return the extra). It's thicker than most surrounds.Cut easily with skill saw. I put paint sticks around the base to give a small gap and help with my unsquare tub. Caulked behind edge and along gap. Use shower curtain rod to hold ends. Put up middle section first per instructions and waited a day for glue to dry so could concentrate on end pieces.
Date published: 2016-10-22
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Update to previous review Discovered through discussion with the Home Depot staff that I should have followed the instructions on the product instead of on the tub surround adhesive for installation. The adhesive should be troweled on over the entire wall surface with a 1/4" grooved trowel for best results. The adhesive instructions to apply in s-pattern to the back of the surround do not work so well and resulted in the poor adhesion. The manufacturer was more than helpful with alleviating my loss, so I have given 5 stars in appreciation.
Date published: 2012-11-19
Rated 4 out of 5 by from Follow The Directions If you take the time to read the included directions, take the time to prepare your walls, mark a level top line, dry fit everything, then trowel on the adhesive, you will have a fresh, sanitary bath area. I'm using this again on my next house rehab.
Date published: 2012-12-23
Rated 1 out of 5 by from do not buy this product What a nightmare! This is supposed to be easy to install. The amount of construction glue recommended in the instructions is inadequate. The product will not adhere to the wall (in my case brand new water resistant to code wall board) without 'oil-panning'. I currently have sticks pushing the acrylic against the glue praying that by morning it will at least stay on the wall. I half expect it to fall off. I'm not pleased with the fact that I can push on some places wherein it has clearly NOT adhered to the wall. I checked, the construction adhesive I used is expressly for the purpose of gluing these kinds of products. I went to the website, as the instructions also suggest one can do, in order to get a clear idea on how to apply this product. The video section which is present has NO videos to assist the user!!!????!!!! Why have the section on the website? Why suggest we go to the website for help? WHY????? The product looks cheap and I can only hope and pray it won't fall down on me while I'm in the shower. I do NOT recommend this product.
Date published: 2013-03-18
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