6 in. Old World Pewter Cast Iron T-Hinge

The hinge is formed from two cast-iron pieces. My opinion of it being cast iron is that there appears to be no rolled edge that forms the pin hole. Based on the center of the hinge pin, one piece is 2 inches x 5-9/16 inches and the other is 1-1/2.inches by 4-1/4. Inches. The #14 screws that are provided are 1-1/2 inch which extend 1-1/4 inch into the mounting surfaces. This seems to imply a wood frame with a 2x4, (1-1/2) inch thickness. If your door surface is less than 1-1/2 inch, you will need shorter screws or the screws will stick out of the door surface. I nearly missed finding the included screws. When you take the hinge out of the box, there is an additional compartment containing the screws that is reached by opening the opposite end of the box. The wall attachment part of the hinge seems to have been drilled for the “Pin” to be inserted. On my first attempt to test the hinges against wood, one of the two “Pin” holes was not centered and the metal around the pin was off-set. The door was rubbing against both oblong metal pieces. With time, the door would wear down and no longer scrape on the metal. This was alleviated if the wall and gate were not flush against each other and “Pin” was over the crack between the door and the wall. Further study of the hinge pieces and screw holes I found the following: 1). Of my 3 hinges, each was unique in that the holes did not match from hinge to hinge. Once you mount the hinge, you cannot replace it with another hinge as the screw holes will not match. 2). The pivot access is not always perpendicular with the edges of the long hinge. This means the hinge needs to be mounted in a skewed orientation so that pivot access is vertical and the gate will not bind when opening and closing. 3). If the actual “Pin” is vertical the pivot access is vertical. The surface texture simulates hammered iron and looks nice. The surface is meant to be seen. The screw holes are recessed for a nice look. These screws are color matched to blend into the hinge finish. Two of the 8 screws had the Phillips slot partially plugged with the color dip. The metal of the hinges is 1/4inch thick. This indicates that the hinges will be surfaced mounted. The thick construction and decorative finish should be seen. As such that the hinge should not be used where only the pin pivot is visible when the door is closed. The information on the box indicates the hinges are good for Doors, Gates, and sheds. The term “Sheds” is a bit strange in that the hinge would be used on the door of a shed. Another item that is a concern is found in the written information. It stated the hinges have a working load limit of 60 lbs. per hinge. These 1/4inch thick iron hinges seem to be capable of a much higher load than 120 lbs. when two hinges are used to hold a gate or door. The warning might relate to the materials that make up the wall or gate upon which you are attaching the hinge. The screws for the top hinge might tear out of the wood since there is only 1-1/4inches of penetration into the surface and less than that if you have stucco or wall board over the wood. If you are attaching on to a side of a board, you might tear along a grain line. When the door or gate is closed (or when 1/2open) the forces are pulling directly out on the screws. You may have to replace the screws Using a longer screw or long bolt with washer and nut through a double stud might be needed. You might also need to reinforce the board with a metal plate. Double the recommended weights might be too much downward pressure on the hinge that it might increase the wear on the contact surfaces between the two, metal hinge parts. Although it is not visible when installed, the finish on the back surface (that touches the door surface or wall surface) of the hinge appears to be thin. If this is an outdoor installation, the iron below the back surface finish might rust. I downgraded the review due to hole locations not identical from bracket to bracket