A: I don’t think there would be enough room to operate this float switch in the cooler.
A: This opens the contact. Or interrupts the electricity when the bulb floats because of rising water level. This seems like it does the opposite of what you want.
A: You have the wrong float switch. You need Everbilt Piggy Back Float Switch for Sump and Sewage Pumps Model# EBFSWPB . When the float is above the tether, this switch will be on. When the water level and float drop below the tether this switch will turn off.
A: The switch I purchased a few years ago is used for keeping a stock tank full. It is off when the tank gets full and turns the pump on when it gets low. I know they make an almost identical float switch that works the opposite way. That would be what you are looking for. A traditional sump pump switch.
A: If you want the pump to turn off when the float drops, you want to purchase a regular sump pump float switch, Model EBFSWPB. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-Piggy-Back-Float-Switch-for-Sump-and-Sewage-Pumps-EBFSWPB/205618058
A: you would need a normally open float switch (pump down).
A: Thank you for the question. We are not claiming this item is for use with potable water. If you do need a potable water approved unit, please call us at 844-251-7446.
A: Lead is internal... unless the float fails by means of leak in the float, stop using it immediately...would imagine cord smell will go away over time. Its best to have a filter system
A: Works with pumps up to 1/2 HP at 120 VAC and 1 HP at 230 VAC From the box, 13 FLA at 125/250V. You cannot know for sure without testing in the repurposed application. However, tables I have checked indicate that the current rating for the 12V DC inductive load is likely between 0.75 x 13 amps and 1 x 13 amps.
A: Yes, the float can be used with 12 VAC applications, but the plug would need to be removed and hard wired.