Regarding Greenfiber Low Dust Cellulose Blown-In Insulation 19 lbs. Sorry, but I can't help? Perhaps you should contact a professional. Good luck.
Should be fine as long as bags are not damaged.
Dear Insulator: Here are some installation tips for blown cellulose -- an excellent solution to insulate residential attics: (1) Step 1: Seal all air leaks. Before you add more insulation, carefully find and seal all of the air leaks into your attic. Recessed ceiling lights are culprit #1: install Tenmat covers and seal the edges with DAP 230 sealant. See: Tenmat Model # FF130E Home Depot Internet # 204286308 Store SKU # 1000012747 and DAP 230, Home Depot Internet #100035980 Store SKU #284425 Store SO SKU #1000058280 You can also quickly create covers with a piece of drywall; simply tape the edges with foil HVAC tape and seal the bottom edge with 3M fire resistant sealant, DAP 230 or HVAC mastic. Great Stuff foam is good to fill gaps and holes -- but do not use it near anything that gets hot, e.g. recessed lights, a chimney or exhaust vent. For gaps near a hot exhaust vent, fill the space with rock wool, then cover it with fire resistant sealant, e.g. 3M Model CP-25WB+, Home Depot Internet #100166701 Store SKU #163096 For the large gap next to a chimney, cover it with aluminum flashing (available at Home Depot) nailed to the joists, and seal the edges with 3M sealant. (2) Do not block soffit vents that circulate air in a standard vented attic. These vents are located along the soffits at the bottom edge of the roof. They cannot be covered and blocked by your blown-in cellulose. Install a 'channel cover' in each rafter bay to provide a protected opening for air to flow. See: ADO Provent Model # UPV14480, Home Depot Internet #100533902 Store SKU #739684. (3) Recessed ceiling lights: Some recessed ceiling light cans are designed for "direct insulation contact" -- and some are not. If you do not install covers, carefully check your ceiling lights to see if they are rated for direct contact. If not, this would create a fire hazard if they are covered with insulation. If your ceiling lights are not 'direct contact' rated, you will need to build a box around each light as noted above -- to keep insulation away from the light. The quickest, cheapest and best option is to use drywall to create a simple box over each light. Tape the joints with foil HVAC tape. Seal the edges to block air leaks; HVAC mastic or DAP 230 work well. (4) Chimneys: If you have an internal chimney, first make sure the gap around it is air sealed, as noted above. Then build a 'dam' around it with drywall or 1" x 8" wood -- at least 6" from the chimney surface. This dam should be >6" taller than the final level of blown cellulose. Temporarily cover this dam when you install the cellulose, to avoid inadvertently adding cellulose in the gap. (5) Hot exhaust vents: Similarly, make sure the gap around exhaust vents are well-sealed as noted above. Then build a 'dam' around each vent, like the dam around a chimney. (6) If you have forced air HVAC ducts in your attic, you are probably losing significant $$ winter and summer. Before you add insulation, seal all of the ducts connections and seams carefully with mastic. See: Master Flow Model # WBA50, Home Depot Internet #100396973 Store SKU #559722. Then wrap the ducts in multiple layers of duct insulation. See: Master Flow Model # INSWRP60, Home Depot Internet #100152008 Store SKU #363984 Store SO SKU #1000684734. Fasten the wrap and seal all of the seams with foil HVAC tape -- NOT silver fabric "duck" tape. See: Nashua Model # 1207792, Home Depot Internet #100030120 Store SKU #915245 Then bury the ducts in 6+ inches of blown cellulose. (7) Install sticks vertically around your attic, screwed to the joists, with a mark showing the X inch depth -- so it will be easy to see when you have achieved the right level in each area. Two charts are attached below showing the depth needed in each region of the USA. (8) Both people (in the attic and at the blower) should wear a good dust mask -- NOT the kind with a rubber band on the back. See: 3M Model # 6297PA1-A, Home Depot Internet #202078789, Store SKU #861149 (9) Cellulose settles 13% over time, so add 13% more to achieve the final depth and R-value. One caveat: People sometimes think they can also insulate their own walls with blown cellulose. This requires a high pressure blower and experience. The blower used for attics is low pressure and does not require experience. Home Depot can recommend a contractor if you want to insulate your walls. I hope all of this detail is helpful. Mark
Anywhere blown insulation can be used, this should work fine
Sure. Many older homes had open ends/spaces in the attic/crawl space and that make it easier to blow in (or hand feed) this insulation. Newer homes often have 2"x4" 's that block direct access to such space making this task more difficult. Either way such space is fine to back fill with this insulation. PS: As some settling will occur, you may need to "top off" after some time has passed.
there are chart on greenfiber website. https://www.greenfiber.com/uploads/documents/INS773LD-Cel-Pak-Extended-Coverage-Chart.pdf
Nope, it is paper based. It is dusty but not itchy
how do I blow insulation into a wall