Unfinished European Walnut 8 ft. L x 25 in. D x 1.5 in. T Butcher Block Countertop

Like any Butcher Block it is many small pieces glued together to make one larger piece. So yes it is essentially one solid piece of wood.

No I would not. Just use butcher's wax. It looks gorgeous.

I would cut, dry fit, then seal before installing. It will make your life much easier and get a better coat on all areas. You wouldn't want moisture to drip down on un-conditioned/sealed wood later.

Food-grade mineral oil then use wax. When you have it cut to size and sanded, treat with lots of mineral oil, rubbing it in and letting it sit 15 minutes each time until it won't absorb anymore. Then make your own wax. Melt 1/4 parts white beeswax pellets with 3/4 parts mineral oil in a double boiler, pour in a big glass jar and let cool. Rub it on the wood. Wipe the wax on after cleaning it once a month to make it look like new & protect it. It took me a long time to figure out how to treat my cutting boards and butcher block counter tops but I swear on this! Look online for how-to videos to make your own butcher block wax. You'll spend 30 minutes to make 10 years worth and it's really easy & fast to wipe on. Works on other wood and marble too!

What previous replies have said is true. But we had ordered two slabs, photos and descriptions exactly the same except one was 25" deep and the other 39", and they are radically different from one another in base color of the unfinished wood. The 25" slab will never ever match the 39" by applying mineral oil to both, so now we are left having to stain the 25" and oil the other or order another one and hope it's darker. Big waste of $300 and mea culpa for not opening the boxes at the store, I should know better.

100% solid. Love it!

Add support on the sides for any overhang over 6-8". They're a bit weaker because the glued together pieces are hanging. For the ends (that go with the grain of the wood), a 12" overhang should be fine without additional support.

No, it isn't. I think they just tell you that because it will stain if any moisture gets on it before it's sealed. Just go ahead and seal it. I guess if you left it many days or weeks unsealed you might want to sand it before sealing but you should do that anyway for a really smooth finish.

No, just sand and finish with whatever you are going to finish the rest of the table with. It does not come with any sealant or conditioner on it, so your cut edges will be no different. I'm guessing the other sites were referring to cutting a pre-finished tabletop, not unfinished. I wouldn't want to try to match an already finished wood. This is great for cutting & finishing. Seal with Mineral Oil, or Danish Oil, all over and you can re-treat it will more Mineral Oil or wax to keep it looking great and protect. Search on how to make your own Beeswax & Mineral Oil videos online. I wouldn't want to live without it on my butcher block now that I started using it and it's really quick & simple to make (you have a 10 year supply after 30 minutes). Read up on how to seal and care for butcher block cutting boards and treat it the same.

No, it would be obviously 1/2 in. short, and zero overhang does not look good. You'll need an inch or two.