Whole House Furnace Mount Flow Through Humidifier

The damper controls whether air circulates through the humidifier. So it should be open (lever horizontal) when you want humidity, and off (lever vertical) when you do not. When you want the humidifier running: 1) Enable humidity control on your thermostat, and ensure that the humidistat (connected to the humidifier) is turned up sufficiently. 2) Turn on water to the solenoid valve (if it was turned off during a previous deactivation) 3) Turn the damper on, so the lever points horizontally. Once you turn everything back on, visually inspect the light on the solenoid control valve and make sure it is activating periodically, and that a small trickle of water is flowing through the discharge tube. Some thermostats activate the humidifier only when the heat is running, and others allow enabling the fan and humidifier even when the heat is off. Check which yours does, and only check the solenoid lights and for water flowing when the humidifier is active. Disabling it during more humid months is the opposite of the 3 steps above.

This sounds similar to my problem, and I think the solution is simple, and speaks to bad label design. The controller label shows the three settings (high temp, low temp and no temp) controlled by the two little switches next to it. It isn't clear if the black square or the white rectangle in the switch illustration corresponds to the top of the switch slider, or the bottom. In other words, try reversing what you think the positions should be for "high temp", pushing both switches up instead of both down. When I did this, it worked: When the furnace is forcing hot air, the blue light now comes on for 2 seconds, before a 30 minute pause and the water flows into the humidifier.

Yes mine did same thing....my old humidifier on furnace had 24 volts supplied only when furnace blower was on....got rid of new supplied transformer and just used old supply wiring instead...!

The humidistat that is included in the kit for the 12HF is wired in series in a 24V circuit. As long as the device is able to be wired in that same way, it should work to control the whole house humidifier.

No, you cannot. The heat generated on the supply side could damage the humidistat, and reason you want to place the humidistat on the cold air return side is that it is sampling the air from the living space to determine if the humidity level has reached the set point.

You really need to call us at 800-879-0123 so we can verify some key steps of your installation have been done properly. For now, shut the water supply off at the saddle valve, and unplug the transformer to make sure the unit is OFF. Hope to hear from you soon.

This humidifier is not a good fit for this specific type of application, meaning weatherized outdoor package units. While we do not offer a steam type of humidifier, this may be a better choice for your application.

Yes. Water is released in short bursts at the top of the unit and trickles down through the pad. Excess water runs out the bottom through a hose to a floor drain or equivalent.

One year on parts, lifetime on housing. Parts are expensive and I found to replace parts out of warranty it was a better cost benefit ratio to buy a whole new unit. I had about ten years on my first unit.

The efficiency will go down a little but it will still work.