|Container Size||20 Ounce||Coverage Area (sq. ft.)||60 sq ft|
|Aerosol / NonAerosol||Aerosol||Application||Wall & Ceiling Spray Texture|
|Base Material||Water Based||Coating Product Category||Prep/Finishing & Care|
|Color/Finish||White||Dry to Touch (min.)||60 min|
|Number per Package||1||Paint Type||Interior Paint|
|Paint/Stain Clean Up||Soap & Water||Paint/Stain Features||Pattern spray adjustment, Primer Required, Textured|
|Surface Material Use||Drywall||Transparency||Solid|
|Manufacturer Warranty||Limited lifetime warranty. See warranty details.|
A: There are a lot of variables associated with wallpaper, (adhesion, type smooth, shiney, foil), which could compromise the end result. Personally, would remove the wallpaper first before texturing the walls.
A: Hi there, please give us a call about your project at 1-800-441-9695.
A: Hi Sean, the drywall should be primed before and after applying the texture.
A: I see both ways. If used on primed surface, plan a much longer time between application and knock down. Patience, wait until the sheen is gone, then test in an inconspicuous spot. You’ll know right away. Unprimed sheetrock sets u a lot quicker because it absorbs into the surface in the surface.
A: Yes, you can buy several cans and texture a whole wall or a whole house. However, you might look into what it would take to get a professional to texture anything more than a small area. The evenness of application is. he biggest challenge with using the cans. This stuff is GREA for touching up an area after filling in large holes which you have properly patched.
A: I believe the instructions call for a primer before application.
A: I've used this to patch several walls. But there isn't enough material in the can to redo an entire wall, and you probably don't need to anyway. Texture on top of old texture changes how that wall looks vs all the other walls. The can advertises something like 2-4 sq. feet of coverage, and this is about what I found. I presume your existing texture is the now very common drop and drag - where the splatter is left to dry a little then dragged flatter leaving little blotches of texture in random shapes. Too few spots of texture material will result in a blank-looking wall. But you can always go back and add more. The key is to get enough on the patched area to control the drag step which creates the texture effect. The result once it has dried and painted with matching paint is invisible from the rest of the wall. It's a good idea to overlap the new and old by 2-3 inches, also randomly, to blend the old into the new. I think you will be surprised how easy it is to get the effect you want. If you mess up, either scrape off the wet or sand off the dried stuff. If you just didn't put enough down, add more. Just don't try to flatten it too soon, you need to give it several minutes at least to cure up a bit.
A: You have to wait and let it dry according to the time required in the instruction in the can before painting.
A: Yes, you can use it on as bit an area as you want, but I don't know how many cans you would need. Maybe it says on the website or on the can how many square feet it will cover. Yes, you would paint afterward.
A: Drywall texture knockdown can be done successfully by a DIY'er with a bit of practice. Its a bit of an art form & the spray can variety is handy for small areas & patch/repair jobs but gets pricey for a large area, always seem to require more than the pray can suggest, it all depends on how skilled you are. For a large area a texture sprayer gun is typically used along with the texture compound loaded into the feed hopper. Texture spray guns are available in the electric variety (i.e. Wagner texture sprayer etc etc) or peneumatic hoper variety which require use of an air compressor & air lines etc. Texture spraying & knock down finish requires masking & drop cloths to protect surrounding areas from over spray. So if you are up to tackling the job get all the equipment & have at it. I believe that equipment can also be rented from your local rental shops & perhaps that is something also available from HD. If you already have a compressor then you might consider going the DIY route. Weigh the cost of equipment acquisition, whether rented or purchase & cost of materials vs hiring a professional. If this is a one time project for you, you might consider hiring a professional. You can find YouTube videos on line that will give you a good idea how to do the work & equipment requirements. OK good luck.
A: Check with a drywaller, these spray cans are for spot applications.
A: Absolutely! Contact a local drywall contractor. When you have a LARGE wall or, in your case, ceiling, they have the equipment to spray ANY surface with the proper density of material and large tools to wipe for the knockdown look. I have used these cans for touch up ... A LOT. But large areas, I only tried it once. No more. If you do not know a drywall contractor, contact a general contractor. They know good drywallers. Another option is to hire a handyman. If the job is less than $500, and the handyman has enough experience and references for the specific type of work you want him/her to do, then go for it.
A: Yes, you are absolutely correct, this product is intended for small repair areas, a square foot or two at the most. If you have a 12x16 room, you will need a Gravity feed Hopper gun to get the splatter on the surface, then proceed to knockdown. It may require some practice like anything else. If you're in a rush to get it done, then you may need to hire a contractor who can do this rather quickly.
A: Yes. Use an air compressor with a hopper attachment.