A:  Yes, this is a good solution for your problem. Wire all 3 neutral (white) wires together with a wire nut. Connect the hot (black) wire to the same side of both switches to the hot (black) supply wire - you will probably need to make short jumper wires to a wire nut. The connect the black wire of the fan to one switch and the black wire of the light to the other switch.

A:  if you have two separate feeds out to the light and the vent respectively, then this will work. My guess is you only have one feed that goes to both the vent and light, in which case this will not work: you need to add additional wiring in order to provide a separate feed to each. If you had two separate feeds, the original installer would have most likely provided two switches.

A:  This switch will work well. You can use 12/3 wire and the common and ground can be shared between the light and fan. Use the black and red for the separate devices.

A:  If the existing switch has two wires attached to one terminal (likely the upper terminal with one wire connected to the lower terminal) this switch will work. The two wires on the single terminal most likely are one for light and one for fan, the single wire on the other t terminal would be power. The new switch has power connection on the left side (on side with a single terminal) and two on the other side. Split the two wires on your existing switch between the two terminals on the new switch. This is my best guess not having seen your existing set up. If unsure, you may want to have an electrician do this. Oh by the way, turn off power to this circuit at the breaker panel before starting, .

A:  You will need to see if one of the romex cables entering the switch box has 4 wires (black, red, white and bare copper). If not you will need to pull a run of 14-3 romex to replace the wire going from the switch to the fixture. Once this is done, in the switch box, you will connect the whites together, the black from the 3 conductor romex (black, white, bare copper) to one of the black screws on the right side of the switch (as shown in the picture), then the black wire from the 14-3 to one of the brass screws on the left of the switch and the red to the other brass screw on the left side of the switch. At the fixture connect the black to the fan wire and the red to the light wire. MAKE SURE TO TURN OFF THE CIRCUIT BREAKER BEFORE BEGINNING.

A:  Only the hot wire (black) goes through the switch. The neutral wire (white) bypasses the switch but connects to the white wire going to the switched fixture. Some active switches like digital timers do require a white wire connected to the switch.

A:  yes, there is always a requirement for a "neutral" wire.

A:  No.

A:  No.

A:  You already have the neutral wire

A:  One hot and one neutral would be required for all switches. Maybe you should have a professional come check it out for you.

A:  Type in single pole dual diming switch on google and it should give you all the options. however, you need to make sure that the fixture is diming capable

A:  Because you have LEDs you want to dim, your options appear to be limited to dual slider dimmers that will fit in the space, but are not decora-style like the one you reference. For instance: Leviton 66DF

A:  first, you must make sure that the LED lights are dimmable (most are not dimmable, may require replacement) then any dimmer will work. unless you are an electrician, DO NOT REWIRE YOURSELF

A:  Only certain dimmer switches work with LED fixtures, make sure that you get one that is compatible.

A:  You can use the Maestro Single Pole/3-Way/4-Way/Multi-Location CFL/LED Dimmer - White