3.1 GPM Liquid Propane Gas Digital Panel Tankless Water Heater

I was forced to replace my water heater with this tankless heater because the replacement water heater is no longer available in CA and because this was the only heater I could find that did not require 120V to power the igniter (it uses 2 D batteries instead). The first problem I had with this heater was its vent diameter is 5 inches instead of 4 inches like my old water heater so I had to replace the whole exhaust plumbing. The other problem I had was that the mounting holes are directly behind the exhaust stack on the top and the line connections on the bottom, making it very difficult to hang, especially if mounting directly to drywall. However, once installed, about a month ago, it has been operating as expected. The only anomaly is that if the hot water is turned on, off, then on again too quickly (this can easily happen when using a single handle faucet), the burner will not ignite the second time. The only way to know that the burner is not lit is by waiting for the hot water to arrive, but never does. Turning the hot water off and then on again solves the problem, but you have to wait twice as long. Also, it obviously takes much longer for the hot water to arrive at the faucet than it would have when using my old tank water heater, requiring you to waste much more water than before. I don't know what CA was thinking.

We are off grid. New well, well pump, 50 gallon pressure tank (30-60) flow through water filter.... That said, the water level has to be turned all the way down, and I need to run the sink faucet on hot, at about 30% just to keep the hot water heater turned on and delivering hot water while taking a shower. It requires too much PSI or flow to operate properly. I'm not impressed so far and seriously considering swapping it with a different brand... Somebody tell me what's wrong or how to fix the issue?

We live at 7000' up in the mountains. This water heater works perfect for 2 people.

Great buy

The heater has been in for a couple of days. Easy install, a few off the shelf items from Home Depot. 1 bath, kitchen sink, and dishwasher. The heater will cruse along at 120 with the shower and sink going. I have good water pressure in my city. All in all I am satisfied. Time will tell on the build quality. Just have to make sure I descale it once a year.

I bought this unit on a Wed. and got it that's Friday. It was an easy flip and is perfect for my self. Thanks for all the help in the Plumbing area.

Ok so the reason for the 4 stars is that what my review will state, "explain" should be in the book or on the side of the box and/or in the description. 1st you should know how a tankless water heater operates before purchase. (for the reasons of size of house, gpm, flow rate, and how many ppl in the household (to know how many outlets will be use at the same time.)) 2nd how to maintain it. (changing from winter to summer, amount of heat, and amount of water flow>) 3rd how many gpm (Gallons Per Minute) for each outlet in the house. (for example:look to the graph in the description. ) With all that said, then and only then should you purchase or even write a review. I thought about writing a review about 6 months after purchasing this NEW IDEA and I was HEATED because like others I don't like the water messed with while in the shower.....LOL!! So my frustration was the hot water turning off when the water was too hot and I had turned the cold water knob on more, which in turn closed the hot water and it turned off. With this happening over and over again without having the whole truth of what was wrong was driving me battie because I knew it was gonna cost me more money to get this one uninstalled and getting another reinstalled and possible going back to a regular water (tank) heater. In my mind JUST A NIGHTMARE. But in my experience after putting enough research of HOW TO's I find out the process in order to know how to work things correctly. This was not the case. Then other ways was reading the reviews in order to learn. (including youtube) This again was not the case. Contacting plumbers in my friend circle, again do not help (or handymen) because really, install isn't hard, explaining and knowing how it really works was the problem. When it got down to the bottom line, good old fashion troubleshooting did the trick. (with lots of prayer for insight!!!) The first problem I had to get past was that the working of a tankless wasn't like a tank water heater. NOT the SAME!! Your home should be tested to see the PSI. Ive learned that normal is 50 to 80. My home is 82, which I know I little high, but seems to help with so much irrigation. My house is on the smaller side, 1226sf and a 2 person household. I picked up this tankless 3.1 GPM before there was 2 ppl in my household. Now it makes sense to get a higher capacity, plus I understand its working. Understand that if you want to shower (2 gpm ) and the dishwasher on (1.5 gpm) approximately then you're going to want your dials on full glow and heat temp dial on high and then leave the dial on summer (I live in Las Vegas, NV so that suits this region) Now with this unit that is probably the best you get out. Being it's a 3.1 gpm MAX flow. If you were taking a shower only, then you will want the water flow at approx. 1.5GPM and the temp at min to med strength and keep the dial on summer. OK so lets say you have someone in the shower but you want to wash the kitchen dishes. 1st understand that the hot water has priority to the closest outlet then the next farthest outlet and so on and so on. So for this example, you change the dial for heat to high and the water flow to high before you turn on the kitchen sink in order for the water in the shower NOT to be disturbed. SHOWER=1.5 KITCHEN SINK=1.5 WHICH IN TURN MAX WATER HEAT AND FLOW IS NEEDED. TYPICAL GPM CHART BATHROOM SINK = 0.5-1.5 (MINE IS 1.5 WITH 80 PSI HOUSE ) WASHING MACHINE = 1.0-1.5 (MINE IS 1.25 ENERGY EFFICENT ) DISHWASHER = 1.0-2.0 (MINE IS 1.5) KITCHEN SINK = 1.0-2.0 (MINE IS 2.0) SHOWERS = 1.5-2.0 (MINE IS 2.0) BATHTUB = 4.0-5.0 (MINE IS 4.0) UTILITY FAUCET = 1.5-2.0 (I DONT HAVE ONE) I hope this helps others with understanding the tankless operational production, so that ppl don't try to replace the one they have in order to make it work correctly. This model, in my opinion, is for a household of one or two ppl and under 1100 square feet. BUT has a higher PSI.

Doesnt work, hot water stops flowing after opening up cold water to fix temperature of water

Excellent well made unit at excellent price w free delivery. I purchased this for my shop tubsink. Easy to install and immediately worked perfectly. I used 1/2” pex tubing for water lines. My Alaska well water comes from the ground at 45 degrees. This heater takes it to 110 degrees instantly. I can now wash my hands, trucks and dog in complete comfort. Highly recommended.

Installation was pretty straightforward, two water lines, one gas line and a vent. Clicks on immediately after water turned on one third the way open, shuts off immediately after water turned off. Adjusts water temp pretty easily, about like a conventional heater. Puts out plenty of hot water for one bath home and doesn't take alot of water being turned on to start so I still can use 1.8 gallon per minute sink and low flow shower head. The winter switch kicks in two additional rows of gas on the burner for extra winter heat. The long brass screw on the bottom with no mention in the instructions is the pressure relief valve. Only had it going a couple weeks but really like it so far and now I have room in laundry for storage where the old heater lived.