FOAMULAR 250 1 in. x 2 ft. x 8 ft. R-5 Tongue and Groove Rigid Foam Board Insulation Sheathing

Hello Brad, We do not provide guidance for insulating pole barns. The only guidance we provide addressing backfill is to install it carefully to avoid damage and as soon as possible, best within 60 days. Thank you for your inquiry.

Hello Cameron, Owens Corning recommends covering FOAMULAR® extruded polystyrene (XPS) rigid insulation as soon as possible following installation due to the potential for damage from ultra-violet light. If FOAMULAR® insulation is not covered immediately, it is recommended that it be covered within 60 days. Thank you for your inquiry!

Hello Kathleen, for pricing information please contact your local Home Depot. Thank you for your inquiry!

Hello Insulation, please check with your local Home Depot for product availability. Thank you for your inquiry!

Hello BobG, We cannot make recommendations on this application as we do not have fire testing available that shows that this application meets code requirements for fire safety. Thank you for your inquiry!

you need to cover it in fire-rated drywall or something else suggested by your state/municipality code - its toxic when it burns, and it is flammable

Dear Artwell: Soundproofing / reduction is challenging. Foamular is excellent as insulation on the walls and floor in a basement, but not a soundproofing solution. I assume you are also building out / finishing your basement, so here are two sets of recommendations -- one for the basement, and the second for sound reduction. So this will be an unusually long list! First: recommendations to buildout your basement. (1) First make sure there are no cracks and leaks in the walls. Fill and seal cracks with Sikaflex Model # 7116110, Home Depot Internet #300934565 Store SKU #652010 If moisture is coming through the wall, apply damp-proofing to the surface. Products like Drylok can provide an important layer of moisture protection. See: Drylok Model # 28615, Home Depot Internet #202610896 Store SKU #1000531519. This product will minimize diffusion from the soil through the foundation. (2) Use 2" thick Foamular XPS foam board on the concrete walls. XPS does not absorb moisture; a 2" thick layer will provide R-10 insulation plus a strong vapor retarder. (3) Using foam board compatible glue, fasten sheets of foam board to your concrete walls. Apply a thick bead around the perimeter of each sheet, to create an air seal when it is pressed against the concrete wall. See: Loctite PL300 Model # 1421941, Home Depot Internet #202020476 Store SKU #780400. You can lean a 2x4 against each sheet to hold it in place while the glue sets, or pin them in place with a RamSet. After all of the sheets of foam board are installed, seal all of the joints and edges to block air leaks. DAP 230 works well for joints and small gaps; the 'Window and Door' version of Great Stuff foam is good for larger gaps. (4) Build your new 2x interior wall in front of the foam board. Use pressure treated (PT) lumber for the sole plate. If water leaks could occur and the floor may be damp, install a piece of Veranda cellular PVC trim on the floor first, to lift the sole plate off the concrete and keep if from rotting; leave small gaps every few feet for water to trickle through under the DriCore panels noted below. Use a RamSet to drive nails into the concrete, or drill holes for expansion bolts. We use bolts in areas with high stress, e.g. near doorways, stair landings and the ends of pony walls. See: RamSet Model # 00022, Home Depot Internet #100091715 Store SKU #107708. Be sure to wear ear and eye protection when you use a RamSet. (5) Insulate and seal the rim joist pockets: Install 2" thick pieces of Foamular 250 in the pocket at the end of each floor joist -- to insulate and seal the rim joist. Seal the edges with the 'Window and Door' version of Great Stuff foam to block air leaks. Then fill the rest of the end of each bay with rock wool. (6) Run your electric lines to receptacles and lights. Fire block (seal) the holes in the studs with 3M Fire Block sealant. See: 3M Model # FB 136, Home Depot Internet #100390499 Store SKU #191728 DO NOT use any type of spray foam, even if it says "Fire Block" on the label, e.g. Great Stuff. These spray foam are actually very flammable. Informed building inspectors can fail an inspection if they find spray foam used for fire blocking. (7) Fill the stud bays with rock wool - the most cost effective solution. See: Owens Corning Model # UB-40-P3D-15--47--121, Home Depot Internet #304633821 Store SKU #1003061505. (8) If there is any possibility of a water leak into your basement, install DriCore panels on the floor first. They have a rubber surface on the bottom with channels that water can trickle through. Make sure, of course, that you have a drain with a dry well or sump pump for the water to escape to. Carefully seal all of the joints and edges of the DriCore panels to block air / moisture leaks. Then install 1" of Foamular on top of the DriCore, and seal the joints and edges. Cover the Foamular with 3/4" plywood as the subfloor / nailbase for your new flooring. Run the plywood 90 degrees from the direction of the foam board, with a 1/2" gap around the edge for expansion. Again, seal all of the joints and edges. See: DriCore Model # CDGNUS750024024, Home Depot Internet #202268752 Store SKU #361018. We installed DriCore at a recent project as a fail-safe, even though the basement was dry. Water leaked in unexpectedly through a window during a downpour, and DriCore saved the new floor. If you are certain that there is no possibility of a water leak into your basement, install 1" thick Foamular on the concrete floor -- and seal the joints and edges. Cover this with 3/4" plywood, running 90 degrees to the foam board panels. Leave a 1/2" gap around the edge to allow for expansion. Again, seal all of the joints and edges. (9) Also read up on fire blocking, which many people overlook. This is required at the top of basement walls, along the walls, at the top of stairs, etc. Do a Google search for "How to Firestop Your Basement" from ContractorKurt. Roxul rock wool is a good solution. You can stuff it into the gap at the top of the wall and into the end of floor joist bays. To seal holes created for pipes and wiring, use fire resistant caulk, e.g. 3M Model # CP-25WB+, Home Depot Internet #100166701 Store SKU #163096.. DO NOT use the "Fireblock" version of Great Stuff foam; as noted above. Second: steps for sound reduction (1) Double up your walls: If you need to isolate your music studio from other rooms in the basement, there should be two walls separated by a gap -- to block direct sound transmission. If possible, build another interior wall with studs that do not touch the existing wall studs. Fill the entire space with rock wool. (2) Fill your ceiling joist bays and the wall stud bays with RockWool Safe 'n Sound, which improves insulation and dampens sound. See: RockWool Model # RXSS31525 Internet #202531875 Store SKU #982937 Use Simpson insulation wire to hold batts in place in the ceiling. See: Simpson Model # IS16-R100, Home Depot Internet #100375163, UPC Code # 044315396618 Store SKU #594333 (3) Seal all air openings: Gaps in the walls, e.g. around receptacles, will allow sound to pass through. Gaps around pipes and wiring in the ceiling create the same problem. Air leaks = sound leaks. Make sure all gaps are carefully sealed. DAP 230 is a good solution for small gaps. Use the 'Window and Door' version of Great Stuff foam for large spaces. (4) HVAC vents: Sound travels easily through the air -- including HVAC ducts and vents. Are ducts shared with other rooms? If so and if possible, seal all vents into and out of your room. (5) Double up your drywall: For the walls and ceiling, mount another layer of drywall over the first one, and use DAP 230 to 'glue' them together. Apply three full tubes of DAP 230 to each 4' x 8' panel. This will form a flexible connection between the sheets of drywall, to attenuate sound. You can use a few screws to hold the second interior sheet in place, but remove them after DAP dries. Leave a small gap around each edge and joint -- so the interior drywall sheet does not touch the floor or ceiling -- and fill the gaps with DAP 230. Note: for the ceiling this requires a panel lift - and probably a contractor. I hope this is helpful, and best of luck with your project. Mark

Hello Artwell2021, In order to provide the best information we would need some additional information. Please contact Owens Corning at 1-800-Get-Pink (438-7465) or Answers.Insulation@owenscorning.com Thank you for your inquiry!

The answer depends on the surfaces that need to be insulated. Do you want to insulate just the walls, or also the ceiling? Do all 4 walls need to be sound-proofed? Walls on the exterior of the house may need no sound-proofing. Your room measurements (20'x15'x7'6") suggest a total wall area of 525 sq ft (70' x 7.5') and a total ceiling area of 300 sq ft (20'x15'). Each Foamular panel covers 16 sq ft. Insulating every sq ft of this space would require 52 2-foot-wide Foamular panels (825 / 16), or 26 4-foot wide panels. 33 2-foot-wide panels (525 / 16) are needed if no soundproofing is needed on the ceiling. Even fewer panels are needed if one or more walls are on the exterior of the house.

Hello Gene, Owens Corning Foamular products are combustible and must be covered with a 15-minute thermal barrier such as 1/2" gypsum. Thank you for your inquiry!

Dear Gene: Yes, foam board is flammable and emits toxic gas when it burns. Use the same type of moisture-resistant drywall recommended for bathroosm: 'green board' or 'purple board'. I hope this is helpful, Mark

Hello Evon, we do not recommend using Foamular for sound proofing. Thank you for your inquiry!