20 ft. Garage Door Bottom Seal Insert Forms A U-Shape with 1/4 in. T-Ends

I am not a young man anymore. I read the reviews. Some of them gave me concern. Upon receipt I opened the box and laid the seal flat on the garage floor. Next morning removed the 15 year old seal and cleaned the track with Dawn detergent, a toothbrush and steel wool. The seal went easily into one end of the track and pushed 14’ towards the other before needing a mild pull from the other end. Supplier’s instructions and the product are excellent. Make certain to adjust your garage door opener to NOT smash down on the seal. It should gently make contact with the floor

on specs says that laying flat it measures 3 1/2", when I got it it looked to big so I measured. Its3 3/4" looks flabby now.

Nice product with straight forward, easy to follow instructions. I have 2, 10 FOOT wide doors that needed gaskets after 24 years. I was a little concerned that 20 feet might not allow the little extra to tuck back into the ends but there was plenty and still a little more. One of those jobs you tell everyone will be easy, secretly knowing there might be bumps in the road. Well, it was that easy! Following instructions, it looks very professional.

The triangle of the seal was 1/32 of an inch to big and so it will not fit into the rails on the bottom of the garage door. I tried soaping it with no luck. It just was not the right size for whatever reason?

The particular seal is not available in store but online only. So, I ordered it and within 3 days the local HD store called me to pick it up. The removal and installation were easy as the previous seal was folded and tuck back in at both ends without any channel being crimped. After removing the old seal, I wiped off the debris under the rail which was collected when the previous seal was cracked, then sprayed both channels of the rail with water and dishwashing detergent combination so the new seal can slide into the channels more easily. The complete removal and installation took me half hour. It will be faster if you have a helper who can pull on the seal while you are feeding it into the channels. There were some wrinkles once the seal was first installed, as it was coiled during shipping. After a few days exposing to the sun, the wrinkles were gone. Overall, I am happy with the purchase.

The old seal on this door was virtually non-existent. This was a perfect fit, easy to install and adjust to fit the door.

I found that the recommended way to install was impossible for me to do alone. I can see that it may also be difficult even for two - for a number of reasons. 1. I really don't think that 16' (in my case)of this stuff can be slid through the tracts (using soapy water too). It pops out of the tracts at the insert end and anywhere else as you try. Here's my method to help us guys trying to install this stuff: NON SLIDE METHOD: I installed when the garage was in the utmost open position, standing on a ladder facing the garage dr. bottom (horzontal in front of me). I then attached 5 bar clamps,at equal distances along door bottom (16' door) (have lower clamp screwed all the way back, then snug the bar closed and tighten clamp. You need enough clearance through the clamps to slide the seal through and be able to work the seal freely. I then pulled the seal through the open space of the clamps spaced along the entire length of the door. btw make sure your garage dr. opener is unpluged! Now starting with the lower track, place the lower foot of the T into the track. Note: by folding the seal up, the upper foot of the T will snap in to place. Proceed for all sections between and under the Bar clamps themselves (see photo attached). Check that the entire lower T is set before proceeding to the upper T. The upper T is set into the track in the same way that the lower T (insert the lower foot of the T first. I found that I could pop the upper T-leg into the track if I pressed the center of the U then pushed the seal upward. Remove bar clamps, trim ends, plug door back in - Done! This proved MUCH - MUCH easier than the recommended method. You do need the bar clamps however... Hope this helps. MikeL

The seal on the garage door was old, dried out & cracking with several gaps allowing rain and pest in but the ultimate motivation was the snake my wife encountered inside the garage. Before you start this project make sure you have the correct seal that fits your garage door track, if possible carry a three inch long piece of the original seal to compare 'T' track width. DO NOT REMOVE THE WIRE CABLE ON EACH SIDE OF BOTTOM DOOR, THEY ARE ATTACHED TO THE SPRING COIL!! While replacing the bottom seal can be accomplished by one person, an extra set of hands will greatly help. Remove the old seal, clean the 'T' track with a cloth and inspect that the track gap is uniform the full width to the garage door bottom and adjust gaps as needed. I sprayed the 'T' track lightly with silicone spray lubricant and threaded the the replacement seal a foot into the tracks. With one person feeding the seal into the 'T' slot and another gently pulling it along, it can be finished in little time.

I bought this U-shaped replacement seal for my Clopay garage doors. After removing my old seal and cleaning the double track, I found this product fairly easy to slide in the tracks and cut to proper length. In the cool morning sun, it looked like it would work fine, although it seemed loose in the tracks. By lunchtime, it heated up in the south-facing sun and was so soft that it was just barely hanging from one end of the tracks, the rest completely loose and out of the tracks. It is impossible to keep in place, even in this moderate early summer heat (75 degrees), not at all an unusually warm installation location. The product is useless for me, and now I will see if Home Depot cares about customer satisfaction.